Reply With QuoteThe most common thing to go is the rectifier. Is your tach still working? There is a reason for asking. Also your rectifier may be part of the regulator.
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2001 Johnson 115 outboard charging system
I was on the water yesterday and had sat in one spot for a long time fishing structure and just moving around with the trolling motor. I had my electronics running and my livewell running on a timer. When I went to leave the motor did not want to start due to a weak battery. I looked at the battery voltage on my helix and said it was 11.4 and this was with the outboard running. I ran the boat for about 15 minutes back to the ramp and was only showing 11.6 .. my question is, with the motor running, shouldn't voltage be around 13.5 or so? Is the helix capable of accurately telling what the voltage is? It makes me think the regulator is either not putting out the propper voltage or the stator is not putting any power to the regulator. Whats your thoughts on the issue and how could I test
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The most common thing to go is the rectifier. Is your tach still working? There is a reason for asking. Also your rectifier may be part of the regulator.
Fair Winds and Following Seas
Bill H. PTC USN Ret
Chesapeake, Va
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Yes the tach still works. Just seems that its not outputting enough voltage. The stator is from CDI and replaced about 6 months ago. It was burnt and not firing all the cylinders not saying that couldn't be part of the issue.
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I am currently at home trying to test the regulator just one question? Where does the red wire connect to. It appears that it goes to the starter but I cannot determine that without taking the chaps off it would be easier to probe the nut at the starter if that's where it connects to
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There is must likely is a fuse between your alternator and the charge returning to your battery. On my Optimax it has blown twice in 4 years.
Google "outboard fusible link"
Simple ohms test will rule this in or out.
Merc wanted 80$ for the link I replaced it with a 10$ 100a fuse.
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I looked up a schematic for my engine but only fuse I could see was the main 20 amp fuse that I guess kills power to the starting system. My engine is a J115PLSIG but closest diagram i can find is a J115PLSIE.
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As far as the ohms test you were referring to how exactly would I test this, I'm not really sure where I would connect to the positive and negative leads to.
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Locate the wire. Turn the meter to ohms. Put one lead on each end of the wire. You are hoping for it to read zero.Originally Posted by huntersdad
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If you have another known good battery, hook it up and get reading for voltage with motor off, idling and then at higher idling. Could be as simple as a bad battery.
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Those OMCs did not have much of a charging system. Probably only ~15 amps running wide open, practically nothing at idle. And if you have a weak battery, it will take much more than that to put a dent in it.
If there is any question that the battery is bad, replace it. #1 killer of starters and charging systems.
You may not see any voltage increase at idle, but it should come up to 13-14v after you've been running at higher RPM for a while.
It would be wise to check the charge coil output on the stator with the engine running. If that is good, and the battery is up to snuff, you're looking at the regulator or a wiring issue.
That motor probably just has a small gauge wire that runs from the regulator to battery positive somewhere, likely on the starter relay. Should just have like a 20 amp fuse, if anything.
