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Thread: Testing overheat alarm circuit

  1. #1
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    Default Testing overheat alarm circuit


    Came home from drill this evening and figured I would give it another shot at this vro situation that I am being faced with. All the instructions that are read say that you can still retain the overheat alarm circuit when you disconnect the oil tank and the vro connection. With everything disconnected and oil mixed in the tank I started the engine and I get a long steady tone from the horn for about 30 seconds. This is all while the engine is cold. The temperature light is remaining on on the system check gauge and when I tried putting a meter on it I'm getting continuity with negative on the Block and positive probe in the engine side connector but when I flip and put negative to block positive to engine side connector I have nothing. I did notice that one side of the motor has a single brown wire the other side has a brown and white with black stripe. I disconnected both wires but I'm still getting the light on the dash and the horn sounds when starting

    Sent from my SM-S205DL using Tapatalk

  2. #2
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    Huntersdad, what's serial# of motor, is it a. Ficht motor? When you turn key on , do you get 1/2 beep
    Then LED lights in gauge, all come on then go off?

  3. #3
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    1/2 second beep.

  4. #4
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    If not a ficht motor there are , 2 temp. sensors 1 with w/b wire and brown/yellow on port side. Starboard side has brown/yellow, disconnect both brown/ yellow wires.

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    Model is 115PLSIG it is a 60 degree Looper from what I understand about the motor. I have noticed for some reason that putting that model number in on any parts websites it doesn't give me any results unless I change the G to another character so I'm not sure if that is a misprint on the tag or what. I had the 4-wire vro plug disconnected as well as the oil tank sensor and plugged the oil line. When I turn on the key to the on position I get the short beep then one by one lights go out and then come back on. Those lights are low oil, no oil, and temp. The only light that goes out is the check engine. When I start the motor I immediately get a steady tone for around 30 seconds and then the horn turns off but those lights remain on. I have also tried disconnecting both temperature sensors prior to starting and the horn immediately goes off as soon as the engine starts to run. All wires look good from what I can tell my only other thought is that possibly the tach has gone bad but I personally do not know how I can test it.

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  6. #6
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    If tach. Is shorted to ground , try disconnecting gray wire at back of tach. gauge.
    Does tach. work when you start motor?

  7. #7
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    It was working..how well I'm not sure.. I don't know if it's accurate because so far I've only run the engine on muffs so I have not had it above an idle. According to the tack it was just over a thousand RPM when it was running. Just trying to get all the bugs worked out before I actually put it in the water. I will disconnect the gray wire and report back

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  8. #8
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    The only gray wire I saw was part of the wire harness that went to the tach and I'm not sure how to remove that without cutting it. One thing that I did notice however was when I disconnected the wire harness from the tach and put the positive probe in the motor side temperature sensor wire. And negative to the block I did not get continuity but with the Harness connected I do. So if I understand this correctly my grounding issue has to be somewhere from the tach harness to the tach itself. Please advise on moving forward

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  9. #9
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    No need to disconnect gray wire from tach. If it's reading 1000 . it's working.
    Did you remove oil tank , oil supply line and capped off barb, where oil hook to , and zip tie, cap. Cap is on a yellow plastic horse shoe holder that's clipped on oil line on port side of motor, if that's not there. Cap the oil line with a bolt or something ,u don't want trash sucked in pump. Remove oil tank ,oil line and wires going to motor. Disconnect oil pump 4 pin amphenol connector at vro pump. Take some rtf silicone and fill that connector to seal those four pins.

  10. #10
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    Rtv silicone.

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