Thread: trailer bearings (shot agin)

I’m going to say it’s an install problem. Here is a link to full description on how to install and set up wheel bearings. 75% of failures I have seen is improper set up on insulation.
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The sealing area of the axle stub on that side probably has a defect.

And they make a seal wear ring.

If spindle is good, replace complete hub kit, not just the bearings. If used only in fresh water and kept greased, they will probably out live the owner.

This wasn't the cause of their problem but I wanted to point out that bearing buddies are notorious for causing inner bearing failure. IMO you can't reliably get grease to the rear bearing with a bearing buddy.

Their issue could be cheap Chinese bearings. I tear down and repack my hubs annually. I just did it last week. I had bought new hubs last year that came with bearings packed with waterproof grease. Those bearings got thrown away after one year of use. The chrome was flaking off the roller bearings. I replaced them with SKF bearings. They'll last a long time.

Also, when you replace bearings, replace races. I've seen races from one manufacturer not allow the bearing made from another manufacturer to ride in the race correctly. We work on trailers 5 days a week at our shop. Every time I think I've seen it all, I see something else.

Bearing Buddies are not there to grease the bearings they are for keeping a positive pressure inside the hub area too limit water intrusion.

Many bearing failures I have seen are due to having the bearing spindle nuts too tight there needs to be just a slight amount of play.

I've as many have with bearing end play on cone brgs. What constitutes the right torque on any hub ?
Other than feel and understanding.

Originally Posted by Mbsbeek

I've as many have with bearing end play on cone brgs. What constitutes the right torque on any hub ?
Other than feel and understanding.

There may be a torque spec, but if there is I have never seen it. There are torque specs and SOP's for semi trailer hubs and I use the same procedure on small trailers. Once the hub is put on the axle I put the tire and wheel back on. I tighten the castle nut until it won't tighten any more (with a socket and ratchet, not channel locks or a crescent wrench) and until I can not turn the wheel. I back it off 1/4 turn or until I can spin the tire. Spin the tire 5-10 times, then tighten back until it won't spin. Back it off and spin 5-10 times. Tighten the nut until it's snug and the wheel spins with some effort. Then I back the nut off one or two notches for the cotter pin. If the wheel spins freely I check the hub for "play" by pulling and pushing on the tire. If there's no play then I put the cotter pin in.

So it involves a process but it also involves feel and understanding. It's not complicated though. It takes me longer to pack the bearings in my trailers than it does most people who rarely do it, but when I get finished, it's good to go, everytime.