HaHa: 0
Crappie Wall Hanger II
Guess I am the oddball.
I've never really believed that it will clean out a plugged fuel system. It is not a mechanic in a can and won't magically clean a plugged carb. Gasoline itself is an excellent solvent, if that doesn't clean it, Seafoam won't.
I'm not a big believer in fuel stabilizers. If you are going to let something sit for years, doesn't matter what additive you try to use, the fuel system is going to need going through.
I have never really used stabilizers. I park the mower in the shed end of October, come April, charge the battery and go. The fuel system has not been touched since it was new in 2006.
Mbsbeek thanked you for this post
Super Moderator - 2013 Man Of The Year
* Crappie.com Supporter
I use Seafoam because it does all of those things. Stabil is advertised as a fuel "stabilizer" (mostly light petroleum product w/5% alcohol), whereas Seafoam is advertised as a cleaner and fuel stabilizer (mostly hydrocarbon blend w/<25% alcohol). (contents according to MSDS of each product, minus proprietary contents & exact percentages)Originally Posted by polarcrafter
Crappie.com 1K Star General
My dad and I have used it for years.
I only use Klotz two stroke oil also. Smells great and burns clean
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Crappie.com Legend
* Crappie.com Supporter
I've ran Seafoam in my boats for years.
Crappie Wall Hanger II
I use Quicksilver Fuel Stabilizer @ the recommended one oz. per 10 gallons year round, add a can of Seafoam to my 20 gallon tank maybe twice a year, pull and clean my plugs on the wire wheel of my bench grinder once a year, and ride with confidence. Fires right off, all is good. All my fuel comes from the same station that moves a huge volume of fuel year round, regular with up to 10% ethanol, never an issue. Fuel filter stays clean, Wife, Motor, and Me all quite happy. Not changing a thing!
Crappie Wall Hanger II
If it's a 2 stroke , an ran alot every yr. It needs to be decarbonized with crc decarbonizing spray , straight in to carbs. Depends on if your motor still has separate oil tank and your not mixing in tank. If premix in tank not many problems.
If only straight non ethanol gas in tank your ok most of the time but a fuel/ water separator is needed. All situations are different. If using gas from local store ( ethanol gas , better have f/w filter. Seafoam or stabil want stop that fuel from collecting water from humidity. That's the problem. Alot of people have a cocktail mixture for fuel tanks. Some onboard fixed tanks are aluminum some plastic. Aluminum tanks if setting say 2-3 yrs half full, water condensation , accumulating inside of empty tank builds a scale. Add fuel to fill up and seafoam. Bam , seafoam breaksdown scale in tank and bam we've got a problem. See this scenario all the time. Depending on motor , tank, hoses, and what fuel is used.
USMA65 LIKED above post
Crappie Wall Hanger II
"Add fuel to fill up and seafoam. Bam , seafoam breaksdown scale in tank and bam we've got a problem. See this scenario all the time. Depending on motor , tank, hoses, and what fuel is used.".......Mbsbeek said
Bingo!!!
Crappie Wall Hanger II
Add fuel to fill up and seafoam. Bam , seafoam breaksdown scale in tank and bam we've got a problem. See this scenario all the time. Depending on motor , tank, hoses, and what fuel is used.".......Mbsbeek said
Bingo!!!
So you are saying it does what it is suppose to do ....clean the fuel system.
Crappie Wall Hanger II
I liken it to switching to synthetic oil in a car or truck that has been run on conventional oil for years. The saying is that synthetic will cause your vehicle to leak oil. True to an extent but it leaks oil because the detergents in synthetic oils have loosened crud that was plugging leaks that already existed.
Same deal if you start using some sort of detergent (alcohols in this case) in your fuel system. I have taken a carb bowl that was tan from varnish build up and soak it in seafoam. It will loosen the varnish in flakes off the bowl. That stuff can plug a jet. Jets are incredibly tiny.
If you have a neglected fuel system I wouldn't drop a can in expecting miracles or complete fixes. However, if you are running rough, I think it is prudent to drop in a $7 can of seafoam before you haul it to a mechanic or tear apart a carb. It might clear it up and save you some time, money and downtime from fishing or hunting. If it is really neglected fuel system drain the fuel and change the filters. Clean the carbs and change the plugs. Don't neglect the fuel lines and primer bulb, especially if you are choosing or forced into using E10. That stuff eats at older fuel lines. It will "melt" them from the inside out. I was replacing a primer bulb every two years or so until I bit the bullet and bought a bombardier/evinrude one that was rated for or listed as "alcohol resistant." I also arranged it in my boat in a such a way so that it stands vertically and the gas must flow from bottom to top through it. There is a check valve in there made of rubber that will get weak. Having fuel under pressure of gravity helps close that check valve to prevent fuel from running back out of the engine and down into your tank. Fill your fuel tank all the way to the brim after every trip. Don't leave air space in there for water to condense out of the air. Install a spin on fuel water separator/filter. Change it at minimum annually. I like Startron for stabilizing fuel if you must.
These are just little tips that I have come to know and use over years of running two stroke outboards. One last bit of advice I can relay is that you need to run these engines. If I am actually using my boat 1-2 times per week and running it WOT on plane up and down the river or lake it runs like a champ and behaves. When I have to leave it set for several months in between uses or idle around a bunch (thanks side-imaging) that is when I run into issues. Run them and run them hard. It flushes the oil and gas through them and ensures you are using fresh stuff.
Reply With Quote
