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Thread: got a power drain

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
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    Default got a power drain


    i been suspicious i had something pulling power on my cranking battery for a while. if i left my onboard charger unplugged for more that 24 hrs my motor would not crank. electronics still come on and instrument panel would lite up when ignition was turned on but bat wasn't strong enough to crank motor. power tilt would be sluggish as well. i replaced the cranking bat and made sure everything was working then left it unplugged. in three days new battery was dead. too dead for onboard charger to pull it up. had to use a regular charger which had it back to full charge in six hours. on my cranking bat i have a helix 10 mega, helix 7 mega plus the usual onboard electrical stuff that would be on an express 18 crappie boat. the motor is a 115 yamaha 4 stroke. my trolling motor is an ultex 112 on a dedicated 36 volt system, however i think the puck for the nav on the untrex is wired to the cranking bat. i have no idea how to troubleshoot this. the only thing i've noticed unusual is that if i crank the big motor with my helix 9 on it will shut off as the motor is turned over. any thoughts are appreciated

  2. #2
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    Dec 2008
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    Unplug or pull fuses on everything connected and then put fuses back one at a time and see if voltage drops then plug up connections and see if voltage drops. I don’t know of a simple or easy way to find something like this. By pulling fuses and unplugging connections at least you hopefully can narrow it down and then start looking at what is connected to further trouble shoot. I have a dedicated accessory battery just to minimize the risk of a dead cranking battery. I would think that any short should shoot a fuse or trip a circuit breaker.
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  3. #3
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    If you have an Ohm meter and are comfortable using it, here is what I would do. First, I would isolate where the draw is coming from. To do this, disconnect everything from positive terminal on the crank batter. Connect the black lead from your ohm meter to the positive terminal. Make sure ohm meter is set to measure current, and put it on it's "lowest" setting - so that you can see a very small current draw. Then, one by one, connect the loads (Helix 10, 7, etc) to the red terminal of the ohm meter. If everything is off, you should see no drain across the meter. If the load center is the issue, do as Catton indicated to isolate which circuit is "leaking". You actually can pull the fuses, and use the ohm meter as the fuse - you can then see how big of a draw it's pulling. From there, you will have to determine what all is on that circuit to then find the culprit! Good Luck!!
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  4. #4
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    Oct 2017
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    Connect a known good digital meter to the cranking battery set to "Volts". Note how in your current condition, the volts are dropping. Remove items one at a time until the volt drop stops - in fact, you should note the volts will actually start going up when you find the culprit. I have taught this process for many years. If you have fuses, they may be pulled one at a time to find the affected circuit. It's actually quite simple.
    I advise you once this problem is corrected to install battery disconnect switches for each battery. Install the disconnects on the negative side of each battery. My switches stay off up until I launch, and are off again after I load the boat to go home and have the motor stabilized. My chargers connect thru fuse protected separate pig tails straight to the batteries and NOT thru the disconnects. All else goes thru the disconnects.
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  5. #5
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    Iowa
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    Hello: I would do as the grand pooh bah said but if you have an automatic bilge pump I would also connect it directly to the battery including a fuse. Good Luck. O - R
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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    Wisconsin
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    The extra GPS puck for Nav needs to be on a switch other wise it will draw current constantly.
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