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Thread: Synthetic 2 Stroke Oils - Current Minor Engine Issue

  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by smashdn View Post
    I do not. Can you direct me to somewhere I could purchase one? If you've read through the thread you can probably tell I am not opposed to spending money if it will cure or prevent this issue.

    So, I looked a little bit on amazon. How do you know how much pressure is enough? Where is the intake for the pressure gauge? This is only a problem at idle for me.

    Also, since this is a hunting boat, does the tube that goes from motor to gauge fill with water or is it just water pushing on air? How does it work (or not) if the water in the tube freezes?
    I have one from Sierra, Bass Pro has them on the shelf, they come as a kit with everything you should need. Even if it doesn't help your issue, it's a good thing to have since it will show issues with the cooling system before they become a big problem.

    I don't know about ice. They include a rubber tube that will not rupture, I fish all winter and don't have any issues, but not on the real cold days. My boat is not in a heated garage. Worst case, I think the gauge just wouldn't work. For the most part I think the hose is full of air.

    There is usually a plug in the cylinder head that can be removed for the gauge. The kit will come with a hose barb and stuff to put it in.

    All motors are different, but 0-40psi is pretty standard. My old Merc would only make 8psi wide open, my Suzuki just barely pushes the needle off the stop at idle, and sits around 15-20 psi at cruise.

    Is the alarm seemingly random, or is there a specific set of conditions that make it repeatable?

  2. #52
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    This morning I ran upriver maybe 4-5 miles, came off plane and idled into the bay i was going to hunt. About 70 yards it goes off. I throttle to a fast idle and after a while it stops.

    When i went to leave, fast idle out, no alarm. Ran back to ramp. Left it running at courtesy dock, alarm goes off.

    Acts like it just doesn't get enough water at idle to cool it. I just dont know how to get it more water save for pulling that thermostat back out.

  3. #53
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    Well I only play a mechanic on TV....but your initial thinking about oil got me to thinking your injection pump was weak at low RPM which could happen with a mechanical pump or an electric pump with a smart injection system. I had a jet ski that injected the same oil at WOT or idle which always fouled the plugs in a long no wake zones. I'm assuming your motor has a variable injector as idling is expected of outboards vs jet skis. Electric motors are more difficult to turn at lower rpm (overcoming friction and the physics or brushes etc), it could be failing, but not completely failed.
    Another poster thinking along these same lines said carb rebuilds which makes good sense to me too.

    When the buzzer sounds next time try pumping the oil primer bulb??

    On a side note, has your new thermostat improved the warm up time on your cold natured beast? Mine's hard to warm up too.

  4. #54
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    A long shot could try and pull the temperature sensor run extra wires to it and put in pot of water that you can warm up with a thermometer and see when the alarm goes off, I have had more different sending units that were new that did not work properly. My last one cost me $800 by the time they figured out what was wrong with my truck turns out the new sensor they installed was not working properly.

  5. #55
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    Thermostat does seem to help it stay running. It hasn't been particularly cold though.

    Oil reservoir is on the motor. No oil primer bulb. It has an oil pump driven of the camshaft. More oil at higher rpm.

    I don't think it is carb related. Runs too good otherwise. It idles smooth and runs wide open smooth. Nothing about the running is bad. Just that dang buzzer which i really do think it is getting too warm. Just don't know why or what to do at this point to fix it.

  6. #56
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    why don't you get one of those non contact thermometers and pull the cover off and do a direct check of the cylinders when it alarms? you could check several spots on different cylinders and see if you are getting one hotter than the others, or hot spots on one side or the other. It might help you narrow it down.

  7. #57
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    140-120f on all portions of cylinder head. Took special care to get right in by where that sensor is. Nothing abnormal that i could tell.

    Alarmed about 3 minutes after i put in this morning idling while i parked the truck.

  8. #58
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    Did you not change out the poppet? Cheap insurance every time you change out the thermostat.
    With the engine running and the alarm going off, reach around and feel the water coming out with your hand - is it barely warm or is it hot?
    It is possible you have a continuity issue in the wiring from the sensor to the alarm. Check for ground or broken wires, or bypass with a known good wire for a test. Or, possibly it could be a bad temp sending unit to the alarm.
    Safe to say, forget the oil (Synthetic or otherwise) as being the issue.
    If it were me, the next move would be the POPPET. Study a diagram for your engine as to the orientation of the poppet to the gasket - some go under the gasket, some go over the gasket, on some the thermostat goes one way and the poppet goes the other (Under/over the gasket, that is). Plan your work! Good luck!
    Thanks Mbsbeek thanked you for this post

  9. #59
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    There is no poppet valve on this engine.

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by smashdn View Post
    Thermostat does seem to help it stay running. It hasn't been particularly cold though.

    Oil reservoir is on the motor. No oil primer bulb. It has an oil pump driven of the camshaft. More oil at higher rpm.

    I don't think it is carb related. Runs too good otherwise. It idles smooth and runs wide open smooth. Nothing about the running is bad. Just that dang buzzer which i really do think it is getting too warm. Just don't know why or what to do at this point to fix it.
    The mechanical pump can be failing too. If your thinking lubrication is possible, look into a a rebuild kit. I'm sure it has some kind of impeller or wear plate which could prevent adequate psi at low rpm when they begin to fail. Or run one tank (or a low tank) with a little extra oil pre mixed?

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