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Thread: Trim Tab

  1. #11
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    most people call this a trim tab.
    Name:  trim tab.jpg
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    I think Tstone is referring the "sacrificial zinc trim tab"
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  2. #12
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    "G" is offline Super Duper Moderator - 2012 Crappie.Com Man of the year & 2018 Crappie.com Decade of Exceptional Service Awards * Crappie.com Supporter * Member Sponsor
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    He was....and we knew it because he said on the motor. The other trim tabs that you show mount on the boat not the motor.
    I have spent most my life fishing........the rest I wasted.
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  3. #13
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    I also need to adjust mine . It is set straight forward and after a 5 min. run you arm needs a break . Should the "front "of the tab be turned right or left if the boat tracks left ?I would assume left to steer boat back right .
    Last edited by Eagle 1; 04-25-2020 at 10:47 AM.
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  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by speckfinder View Post
    Don't worry about it, it is out of the water when you are on plane and has no effect on steering.
    this is the one i was referring to.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eagle 1 View Post
    I also need to adjust mine . It is set straight forward and after a 5 min. run you arm needs a break . Should the "front "of the tab be turned right or left if the boat tracks left ?I would assume left to steer boat back right .
    Move it the same direction as the pull. Boat pulls right, tab needs to go to the right.
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  6. #16
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    Barnacle Bill is offline Super Mod and 2014 Crappie.com Man of the Year * Crappie.com Supporter
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    Quote Originally Posted by Atimm693 View Post
    Move it the same direction as the pull. Boat pulls right, tab needs to go to the right.
    Yes, think of it as a rudder. Then adjust it opposite as you would the rudder. The back of the tab needs to go to the right as mentioned. This is because you are compensating for torque. Not steering.
    Fair Winds and Following Seas

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  7. #17
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    My question is the same pretty much as "Eagle 1"'s ....I have a xpress with a 90 and pulls hard to the left. I know if you stand behind the boat looking forward to adjust tab should point to the left (the direction of the pull). Problem I have found is the stop on the tab will not let it turn far enough to make a difference.

    So my question is what to do or check next or just live with it?
    John 21:6
    "Cast your net on the right side of the boat and you will find some." When they did they were unable to haul the net in because of the large number of fish.
    Maybe we are just on the wrong side sometimes.....

  8. #18
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    Standard rotation props which is what 99% of the readers have will tend to create steering torque to the right. For those with power trim, you may notice the steering torque neutralizing at some point in the trim before changing over to a left hand torque at maximum trim angle. The trim tab should be somewhere between straight in line with the boat, to the trailing edge of the tab fully to the right. Each boat/motor/prop combination will have a better placement. If you guys that are reporting left hand steering torque are talking about what is felt at maximum trim angles, do not adjust the tab to compensate for that. It will give you an amplified steering torque at lower speeds and trim angles. They make a trim pad that attaches to the right side of the skeg for those running their motors at higher positions on the transom. For those who get the hard left hand torque at maximum trim angles, your best solution is to try other props. It's your prop's loss of efficiency when that happens. And typically you will be throwing a rooster tail by the time the torque transitions from right to left.
    I'd rather be fishing.

  9. #19
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    Replace it, and adjust if you need steering assist. Turn it to the direction of pull. Even if not needed for steering assist, it is in fact a sacrificial anode. If your lower unit takes on any corrosion, you want the anode to be the point of collection for it. When you have one that is showing some pitting and looks almost "Bleached", that means it is doing it's job. Never NEVER paint the anode.
    Your home hot water heater usually has one too, usually magnesium. Same theory. Failure to replace it when needed leads to premature tank leaks, time varies with water quality. I do mine at 5 year intervals at a cost of about $30. I helped a guy replace His hot water heater once, tank was leaking. Laid the old one down, put a 1-1/16" socket on the anode head to remove it, and inside there was nothing left of the 40" anode rod except for a very small nub. Respect your anode!

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