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Thread: Aluminum hull screw holes below water line

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by BuckeyeCrappie View Post
    Yeah I found stern saver after searching the web and watching some videos. I like Charlie’s idea as well, I figured he would give me an idea. I can see where I caused confusion with the product name.
    Lol.....its all good
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  2. #12
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    I don't trust JB weld on thin stuff that can flex, and screws can loosen up over time.

    Use a closed end pop rivets like these, sealed with 3M 5200. They will never work loose or leak.

    Aluminum Pop Rivets 3/16 Diameter #6 Sealed Closed End Blind Rivets Select Grip | eBay
    Likes Central Minn LIKED above post

  3. #13
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    If you go the JB route I would rather use the stuff that comes as a putty cut off what you need and knead together that stuff is twice as hard as regular JB weld , and claims to be water proof where JB weld does not. With the putty you can work it into the hole and not worry about it running out. Just my 2 cents.
    Likes SeaRay, BuckeyeCrappie LIKED above post

  4. #14
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    I just put the screws back in and cover with Marine JB weld or caulk the screws water right with the best silicone you can buy. I took aluminum boats to Canada a dozen times and always carried a kit of Marine Tex for puncture holes from granite rock as well. I never have screws work loose and leak and the Marine JB Weld last forever and stays rock hard for me. Watch the type you buy cause some JB weld has a strength of 5200 psi strong,,some less. You want to use the strongest.

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  5. #15
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    My only complaint with JB is that it doesn’t flex, it cracks loose. Keep that in mind when you butter things up with the 5200. Done with the dimple Cray described should be just fine.
    Listen to your gut over all the other voices.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by "G" View Post
    Transom saver is supposed to be mounted to the trailer....not the boat.
    Stern saver as the op mentioned mounts to the transom.

    https://www.cabelas.com/product/Stern-Saver-Transducer-Mounts/1980040.uts?productVariantId=4166111&WT.tsrc=PPC&W T.mc_id=BingPLA&WT.z_mc_id1=04162134&rid=20&msclki d=315cce9acecb147eb1c090849f2a423e&ds_rl=1252079&g clid=CL3ZhKqihOcCFRmexQIdQ7QKFA&gclsrc=ds

  7. #17
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    F26 polyboard (stern saver) to the boat, being sure to work F26 on area of screw holes. If you can access the back side of the screw holes in the bilge area, run screws in the poly board from the inside.
    I'd rather be fishing.
    Likes "G", Central Minn LIKED above post

  8. #18
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    Thanks for the ideas. Have yet to get started as I just go my arm out of a cast and my wrist is frozen since the tendons atrophied.
    John

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  9. #19
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    I use JB weld and spray with Rust-o-leame, undercoating. Ms spelled.

  10. #20
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    I bought some low temp alumaweld rods and patched mine. Works slick and easy with just a small propane torch.
    Bought it on Amazon and I have used it multiple times on different aluminum surfaces works just like having it welded at a shop.

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    There will be days when the fishing is better than one's most optimistic forecast, others when it is far worse. Either is a gain over just staying home.

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