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Thread: Crosby sled

  1. #21
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    You make a good point on the 45 degree holes. Kind of like cutting the top off of a pumpkin. I just wonder if they make some sort of a hole saw that would do that although I do have a multi-tool that I could just cut squares out and number those so I know exactly where they go back since I'm sure they would not be the same. I had already thought about adding in the plywood for the seats but did not think about the 45-degree cut along the perimeter. As far as the floor goes I do plan to install Marine vinyl hopefully in one piece and wide enough so it lays across the floor and even comes up the sides to where it turns 90 degrees again at the top and then put a piece of angle there to finish it off. If done correctly I don't see how any water at all could get through the floor and into the wood. I did plan on applying resin to both sides of the plywood before it is installed but just wonder if I need to do that with fiberglass resin instead of epoxy since I want to use PL premium to glue the plywood to the hull of the boat. With the PL premium being a polyurethane base I just wonder if it would adhere to the plywood if there is epoxy on the bottom side. I just purchased the 3-gallon kit from raka. Depending on what I have left over when I get to the floor will determine whether or not it gets epoxied with 1708 or use polyester resin.

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  2. #22
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    I’ll start by saying that you’ll use more resin, epoxy or poly, than you think you will. I used cabosill(spell check) as a filler for the poly resin I used to stiffen it and act like putty. I’ve seen floors attached to stringers with a layer of bondo or tiger hair on top of the stringers, apply the treated wood floor and used stainless screws, enough to hold it til the boding agent hardens. Then scuff the edges and fill any gaps with the thickened resin and add a 4 or 5” strip bonding the ply to the hull. Then cut and resin in a layer or two of ounce and a half chop mat, adding to the wall/floor transition in the process if you want. With this as a floor you shouldn’t have any issues with it til you’re tired of looking at the boat. The woven mat is strong but doesn’t flex for the transition from floor to wall.

    Another option for the seat bases is to install the floor without these and plan where to attach them. Then treat the wood and either glass them top and bottom or wrap them with the flooring you used everywhere else, maybe with 5200 around the edge to seal and bond.if you glassed them you could paint them however you chose. The idea is to spread out the footprint and remove as much leverage possible. I used 1/4” aluminum and spread the plate between two crossmembers on the floor about a foot to 14” wide. It never wiggled after that. The seat bases I used had a 2” pipe and base that was about 10” across. The skinny posts we use on decks aren’t made for use while under way but I’ve seen them used for that. I have no faith that they would last.
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  3. #23
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    This boat for whatever reason never had stringers. I assume that when the boat was built the sides and floor where all one piece and was all encased in foam. There are a couple access holes where I guess the foam was poured in after the two halves were put together. The seat bases that were in the boat when I got it are about 16 in square and has a swivel on top for the seat to mount to. With using plywood instead of the original fiberglass floor, I will have to figure out a way to weigh the floor down while the adhesive sets and I was thinking on using PL premium directly on top of the floor section of the hull for securing the plywood since it will be almost impossible to fasten it down with any sort of screw. At this point I doubt I will have to worried about tapping the plywood into the side of hull perimeter because the sides would come in the boat past the plywood. I was just going to adjust the sides in and out so they were Square to the floor and then glass that 90 degree angle where it meets the floor. I'm nowhere near the point of the even testing my theory yet due to the fact that I can't seem to figure out the transom. So far I have laminated two pieces of three-quarter inch ply with PL premium and have it setting up as we speak. I wanted to be able to put plywood from one end of the stern to the other but due to the shape of the transom I don't think it's possible. If you look back at the earlier pictures I believe that there's only wood in the area where the motor would mount to and the two boxes on each side of that we're glassed-in to the transom holding everything together. I wish I could have figured out a way to install a solid inch and a half thick piece of plywood to the transom area because I know it would have been much stronger then when it left the factory. Hopefully my rambling hasn't confused you with my lack of boat terminology

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  4. #24
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    The boxes at the transom were no doubt also serving as a knee board would in a regular built boat. For the lower HP that the boat will be using, a thicker transom, that is what was used in my 150hp Bumble Bee, isn’t really needed. If you have a curved transom, kinda like a Boston Whaler would have, then cutting relief cuts and applying pressure during resin drying process would be needed. I also have an idea of laminating several pieces of 1/4” or 3/8” ply, which has much more flex, might be an option. Getting the curve right if not done within the boat would be a challenge. Push came to shove, I would try my best to reproduce what the manufacturer did and glass it well and pretreat the wood. A lot of low to mid grade boats of the time didn’t treat the wood used and the boats got wet and fell apart.

    Joining the sides (fiberglass) to the floor (wood) isn’t as hard as you might think. Keeping any voids filled in and air pockets to an absolute minimum is very important. I have lots of thoughts bouncing around in my head but not having the boat where I can see it has me frustrated. I’m going to PM you my phone number. Please call me and let’s bounce things back and forth.
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  5. #25
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    Quick question what type of wood would you say these are in the photograph. Looks like a solid one by that is on the inside of the wall section and then there are plywood blocks spaced about 40 inches apart on Center. These are going to be removed and replaced. Would you say that the evenly spaced plywood blocks could be one solid strip or would they need to be spaced.Attachment 362772Name:  20191228_161010.jpg
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  6. #26
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    Is this the transom?
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  7. #27
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    No, it's the sides/cap of the boat. I plan to glue the transom in tomorrow. I added another layer of 1708 to the rear of the boat today and sealed the transom wood. The original transom was two pieces of half inch ply laminated but I decided to go with 2 sheets of 3/4 laminated to give me an inch and a half overall. I know with my boat inch and a half probably isn't necessary but I did notice before I removed the outboard that the set screws were almost bottomed out to be tight. Just waiting on the epoxy to cure now. The cap is going to be needing some attention as far as removing all the old wood so plan to start on that tomorrow as well. Just wasn't sure as far as those plywood blocks are concerned if I could just have blocks to go around the whole perimeter which would help fasten the cap down and the rub rail once installed. With the original construction of the boat I noticed that the cap was only screwed in through the fiberglass itself self and then a few places where the blocks were.I figured if I had wood all the way around then no matter where I put a screw I would hit something.

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  8. #28
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    When I connected upper and lower hulls it was just riveted together and then a couple of layers of chop mat about 4 or 5” wide to cover both from the inside. Now these were much bigger boats. Most I’ve seen, including my bass boat, were connected by rivets and silicone between the layers before the rivets were installed. For most boats this is sufficient. When I say silicone I’m referring to 5200. Much better than common silicone and designed for marine use. A little more runny so look for it to follow gravity some in thicker areas.

    Can’t imagine what the blocks were for unless it was backing for some interior part. Adding wood under the upper hull where you plan on adding anchor cleats and such is smart at this stage.
    Creativity is just intelligence fooling around

  9. #29
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    I will try to get some pictures of how the top cap joins the hull and post them here. There really isnt much of a flange to rivet or screw to it's not a shoe box fit so to speak the top cap kind of rolls upwards and then joins the hull on its side. That's kind of why I was thinking about putting a backer in place where I could fasten the hole to the top cap using stainless steel screws and then button it up with the rub

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  10. #30
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    This is a really neat project that you are undertaking! Be sure to post some pictures when you get it done.

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