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Thread: Removing lower unit bearing carrier ring

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
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    Fairview, AL
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cray View Post
    Unless you replace gears or bearings you should be able to put back together just like it came apart with out much of a problem.
    Unfortunately the forward gear will have to be replaced. And I'm not sure why it lost a tooth to begin with...I'm wondering if last time it was worked on if it was done right. I guess I'm leery of trusting the shims that are already present. Testing the backlash doesn't look too hard though so I may be able to get close on the shimming without special tools and then confirm backlash and call it good.

  2. #22
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    Aug 2011
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    Jonesboro, AR
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    The missing tooth is the result of what's referred to as a single stress overload. It's the tooth that was in full contact at the instant the prop hit a solid object with the engine was at speed. A bad shim build will set the gears into a self destruct spiral. The top of the gears will be rounded and noticably worn. Your's should appear shiny with small nicks and dimples from chewing up that one tooth. Also, it sounds as though you are missing a locking ring that sits between the spanner nut and carrier. It has tabs that are to bend down and prevent the spanner from moving. No loc-tite is used.

  3. #23
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    Mar 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by sliderman View Post
    The missing tooth is the result of what's referred to as a single stress overload. It's the tooth that was in full contact at the instant the prop hit a solid object with the engine was at speed. A bad shim build will set the gears into a self destruct spiral. The top of the gears will be rounded and noticably worn. Your's should appear shiny with small nicks and dimples from chewing up that one tooth. Also, it sounds as though you are missing a locking ring that sits between the spanner nut and carrier. It has tabs that are to bend down and prevent the spanner from moving. No loc-tite is used.
    Thanks for the explanation. I've yet to pull out the pinion and forward gear but will do so very soon and can take a better look at everything. I'll post some pictures here too. Interested to see if that gear is an oem part or one of the $50 ones from China they sell on Ebay.

    As for the spanner nut, mine did have the locking tab ring. I can't remember though if the tabs were bent correctly to keep it locked in.

  4. #24
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    Mar 2010
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    Here is an update. Things took a turn as I found a used lower locally. Was told it came from a motor with a bad powerhead from south Louisiana so it has seen some brackish water but looks really good overall. Had dark oil so I know that it has good seals and it shifted good by hand. I'll sand, prime and paint it at some point. I wish it was a short shaft though as that's still what I ultimately want. I may do the conversion on this one but before that I will probably fabricate a riser to put on my tilt and trim unit so I can use it as is and see if the tiller height is ok.

    I'm still going to try to work on the broken lower. At a minimum break it down so I can see what all is salvageable and what is trash and from there try to fix it myself or sell the casing, driveshaft and guts online.

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