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Thread: Removing lower unit bearing carrier ring

  1. #11
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    Here is an update from last night...I got the spanner nut off by just using a screwdriver and some light taps. Didn't appear to be torqued at all nor have any type of threadlocker or compound on the threads. Then the bearing carrier just pulled right out! From a rookie perspective the bearing carrier, prop shaft, reverse gear, rear main bearing, and pinion gear all looked/felt good. The clutch dog had a little rounding on the corners but didn't seem too bad to me. The forward gear was missing an entire tooth, however, so it will need to be replaced. I wonder if that tooth was broken off prior to a previous lower disassembly/rebuild because I would think that a whole tooth getting ground up in there would seize up at least one of the ball bearings in there, but they all seemed pretty smooth to me. If I could get by with a new forward gear, shift rod assembly, some seals, and a new spanner nut I'd be pretty happy.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by scout-j-m View Post
    Here is an update from last night...I got the spanner nut off by just using a screwdriver and some light taps. Didn't appear to be torqued at all nor have any type of threadlocker or compound on the threads. Then the bearing carrier just pulled right out! From a rookie perspective the bearing carrier, prop shaft, reverse gear, rear main bearing, and pinion gear all looked/felt good. The clutch dog had a little rounding on the corners but didn't seem too bad to me. The forward gear was missing an entire tooth, however, so it will need to be replaced. I wonder if that tooth was broken off prior to a previous lower disassembly/rebuild because I would think that a whole tooth getting ground up in there would seize up at least one of the ball bearings in there, but they all seemed pretty smooth to me. If I could get by with a new forward gear, shift rod assembly, some seals, and a new spanner nut I'd be pretty happy.
    I’d run a magnet around in there real good and pick up any shavings that might still be there. Clean real good with brake clean. My bet is some one pulled drain plug and that piece was stuck to magnet on plug. The ideal thing and some will say this is to replace the gears that mate to the forward gear. I check the mating gears and if they look good and have a clean wear pattern I’d just change the one gear. When you get it back together do a breaking procedure similar to a new engine. Maybe about 4-5 hours. Give that gear time to wear in against the old one to establish a wear pattern that matches the old one. Change lower unit oil, check and clean drain plug mage net. Run it another few hours normally and change oil again. Pay attention to how much if any metal is in oil and on magenet. Gould be very minimal at this point. Oil is cheaper than labor and parts.
    When reinstalling, screw in that retainer and snug. Try to shake shaft, then loosen a turn and turn shaft a couple of times and retighten nut. This just makes sure every thing is aligned and seated properly.
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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cray View Post
    I’d run a magnet around in there real good and pick up any shavings that might still be there. Clean real good with brake clean. My bet is some one pulled drain plug and that piece was stuck to magnet on plug. The ideal thing and some will say this is to replace the gears that mate to the forward gear. I check the mating gears and if they look good and have a clean wear pattern I’d just change the one gear. When you get it back together do a breaking procedure similar to a new engine. Maybe about 4-5 hours. Give that gear time to wear in against the old one to establish a wear pattern that matches the old one. Change lower unit oil, check and clean drain plug mage net. Run it another few hours normally and change oil again. Pay attention to how much if any metal is in oil and on magenet. Gould be very minimal at this point. Oil is cheaper than labor and parts.
    When reinstalling, screw in that retainer and snug. Try to shake shaft, then loosen a turn and turn shaft a couple of times and retighten nut. This just makes sure every thing is aligned and seated properly.
    Great tips, thank you! I just ordered the factory service manual too so I will hold off on working on it anymore until it comes in which may be another week.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by scout-j-m View Post
    Thanks for the tip. I'll give furflyin a holler about it.

    I have a copy of a generic Clymer type manual. I bought what was listed as the factory service manual off of Emanuals.com or something and the download contained that one instead. I was thinking a $23 digital download was better than ordering a hardcopy from elsewhere for $60 but now I'm fighting them trying to get a refund for falsely advertising what they sold as the factory one. Thankfully I purchased through Paypal so they should make things right.
    They give you a hard time just call credit card company and explain it to them. They will help.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cray View Post
    They give you a hard time just call credit card company and explain it to them. They will help.
    They gave me the run around. But I filed a complaint with Paypal and they ruled in my favor.I'm pretty sure they are illegally selling copyright material so that may have helped my case with Paypal lol.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by scout-j-m View Post
    They gave me the run around. But I filed a complaint with Paypal and they ruled in my favor.I'm pretty sure they are illegally selling copyright material so that may have helped my case with Paypal lol.
    That’s why I will hardly buy anything if they don’t take PayPal. And I’m sure you are correct.
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  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cray View Post
    That’s why I will hardly buy anything if they don’t take PayPal. And I’m sure you are correct.
    Yes, I would not have bought from them if they didn't.

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    Received the manual yesterday. It will be a big help. I will tear into my lower more this week and then try to order parts this weekend. I think my biggest hurdles will be checking that the correct shims are used as that all requires special tools.

    I also purchased a used exhaust housing, driveshaft, shift shaft, and water tube all in short shaft lengths so I can convert my motor while at it.

  9. #19
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    PM replied. Sorry I couldn’t be more help. I took mine apart but it was so damaged that I had to replace the whole unit. I used a punch like Cray mentioned to remove the nut. You’ll need to put it in a vise to hold the casing.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by scout-j-m View Post
    Received the manual yesterday. It will be a big help. I will tear into my lower more this week and then try to order parts this weekend. I think my biggest hurdles will be checking that the correct shims are used as that all requires special tools.

    I also purchased a used exhaust housing, driveshaft, shift shaft, and water tube all in short shaft lengths so I can convert my motor while at it.
    Unless you replace gears or bearings you should be able to put back together just like it came apart with out much of a problem.
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