Thread: Prop size

If you can get one get one just like what you have in a 14. That should drop you right at the 200 rpm you need. Gain maybe 1-2 mph and not loose your hole shot.

Thank You
I see they make a Black Max 10 3/8 x 14.

Originally Posted by crappiemax

Thank You
I see they make a Black Max 10 3/8 x 14.

That’s the one I would get. If for some reason you wanted to go stainless then you have to start kinda playing with diameter and pitch a little because they react differently. But like I said before if your pretty satisfied with what you are getting now I don’t see how you could go wrong with this one. He plus is you end up with a good known spare prop.

I have the same boat, although older.

I have a 60hp Merc 2 stroke. It had a badly dinged factory 13P aluminum prop. When I opted to replace it, I installed a tach and found the same thing you did, WOT was ~6200 RPM.

I installed a Turning Point Hustler 14P alloy prop, which dropped the WOT RPM to ~5800. Still high, but it allowed some headroom with heavier loads. I also noticed that this prop seemed to lug the engine more at idle, and holeshot suffered. Top speed was about 33 mph, 31 before.

I lucked out and found a stainless 13P at an auction for a song, and have been running it since. I like the better holeshot and it's very quick to plane. The extra 2mph is not worth it to me.

That's just my experience, a 4 stroke may have more low end grunt and do better with more prop, I've never owned one.

I think these boats really need a 90 to perform optimally. A 60 is the absolute minimum IMO.

Originally Posted by Cray

That’s the one I would get. If for some reason you wanted to go stainless then you have to start kinda playing with diameter and pitch a little because they react differently. But like I said before if your pretty satisfied with what you are getting now I don’t see how you could go wrong with this one. He plus is you end up with a good known spare prop.

I thought about SS (briefly) but as you mentioned too many variables change so I decided maybe I'll just stay with alum. When I bought the new motor from BPS the local Tracker dealer installed it and he kind of hinted that it's cheaper to replace an alum prop than it is to rebuild a lower unit and since he knew I often fish a lake with flooded timber. it's just a matter of time before I hit something.

Originally Posted by crappiemax

I thought about SS (briefly) but as you mentioned too many variables change so I decided maybe I'll just stay with alum. When I bought the new motor from BPS the local Tracker dealer installed it and he kind of hinted that it's cheaper to replace an alum prop than it is to rebuild a lower unit and since he knew I often fish a lake with flooded timber. it's just a matter of time before I hit something.

In theory with the new hub designs you should spin a hub before causing any serious damage to your lower unit. I've never spun one, but have messed up a prop or two aluminum and or stainless fairly well. Cray's advice will not steer you wrong, experiment with a aluminum prop and it will give you an idea on diameter / pitch before you jump headfirst and buy a SS prop.

Are we talking 3 blade or 4 blade?

I'm a big believe in these smaller boats with smaller engines needing a 4 blade for great holeshot and heavy loads, to lift the rear up more, and be able to stay on plane at lower speeds.

Originally Posted by artcarney_agr

Are we talking 3 blade or 4 blade?

I'm a big believe in these smaller boats with smaller engines needing a 4 blade for great holeshot and heavy loads, to lift the rear up more, and be able to stay on plane at lower speeds.

Current prop is a 3 blade. I'm not having any problems with hole shot or performance.
It's just with the current prop the top end WOT is a few hundred RPM over mfg. recommendation. For me personally I just hold the throttle back a little. My wife and son both seem to run it wide open.
Slowing down the max RPM down about 200 would be perfect.

Now I'm curious....if I went from a 3 blade to a 4 blade what results could I expect?