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Thread: Electronics circuit ....

  1. #1
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    Default Electronics circuit ....


    I use two Humminbird Helix 10's and a Humminbird 360 during fishing, mostly none stop while fishing. Lately I have been getting a "low voltage" alarm on the graphs. I have the circuit going to the starting battery. I was considering using a battery for the electronics only, and isolating the starting battery. However this would mean running wire, and another charger.

    Was wondering how you guys power your boats electronics.

  2. #2
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    Why not just get a bigger group size cranking battery...one with more capacity
    I have spent most my life fishing........the rest I wasted.
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    So, before I answer the question, I'm going to tell you a story. This would be a conversation I had with a very well known boat manufacturer. This "might" help make sense of a few things:

    Me: So, I see that you have a dual battery tray up front for a 24v trolling motor. You don't have a wire chase going to the back of the boat. It is enclosed.
    Them: Why do you need a wire chase:
    Me: So that I can run my 3 bank battery chargery hooking up my two trolling motor batteries and my starting battery
    Them: Why would you need to do that? We NEVER install a charger on your starting batteries.

    Me: Well, tons of reasons. 1: Who wants to take the cover off their boat, open this hatch, remove the fishing rods, then the hatch cover to get at the battery compartment in order to plug in my charger which has to be installed in this compartment because there is no other location?
    2: why would I want to install a 2 bank charger and a single bank charger thus having to plug two different things in and the potential to have issues at one location or the other.

    Them: I see your point on the charger issue, that is dumb, but still don't understand WHY you need a charger on your starting battery. The main motor charges it!!!!

    ME: Well, here you go: I run a main motor, a kicker motor, a VHF radio, A UHF radio, A livewell, an aerator, three fishfinders, Nav lights, and a bilge pump. Most kicker motors do NOT have a generator (alternator). I run a toltal of 5 miles to my fishing spot (tournament fishing). I ran the nav lights, the three fish finders, the livewell pump, aerator, oxygenator, and VHF radio all day long. At the end of the day, I fire the big motor to run 5 miles back to the dock. Did the big motor completely charge my main battery? Guess what? Tomorrow I wake up at 4am, get to the launch, and do it all over again... Do you think I have enough power in this battery from that 5 mile run? Did it charge it enough?

    I'm not sure of your current setup BUT, if you don't have one, I suggest installing a charger on your main battery (not just your TM batteries). I suspect that your battery is NOT getting enough of a charge. Eventually, the battery is getting depleated.

    Also, your battery is probably NOT charging to full capacity. You could in fact be on the verge of a battery going bad. I install 3 and 4 bank chargers. One plug and I'm done. I also run AGM batteries which cannot be overcharged and do not discharge.

    Try charging your main battery and see where it gets you. Also do a volt test on it to see where it is at. I always go with the biggest battery I can fit (group size 31) and charge it after every use.

    As for the above story.... The company saw what I was saying and actually changed their design for future models. And no, I didn't buy their boat. I went to the dealership to have fun with the salespeople, pick the boat apart, and see just how much they didn't know about their product. I enjoy doing that from time to time!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wade2131 View Post
    I use two Humminbird Helix 10's and a Humminbird 360 during fishing, mostly none stop while fishing. Lately I have been getting a "low voltage" alarm on the graphs. I have the circuit going to the starting battery. I was considering using a battery for the electronics only, and isolating the starting battery. However this would mean running wire, and another charger.

    Was wondering how you guys power your boats electronics.
    A weak cell in your starting battery can cause this issue. High resistance in your "feed" wiring can drop line voltage. Alarm voltage settings set too high can cause this. And as mentioned, an under charged battery can cause this. A "starting" only design battery can also cause this. As mentioned, a large deep cycle battery is the best choice when running lot's of electronics throughout the day. If you go with an extra battery, install an isolator on it and a common ground, between the starting battery. That will allow charging from both the engine's system and a single charger.
    I'd rather be fishing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wade2131 View Post
    I use two Humminbird Helix 10's and a Humminbird 360 during fishing, mostly none stop while fishing. Lately I have been getting a "low voltage" alarm on the graphs. I have the circuit going to the starting battery. I was considering using a battery for the electronics only, and isolating the starting battery. However this would mean running wire, and another charger.

    Was wondering how you guys power your boats electronics.
    4 batteries in my jon boat. 2 series 31’s for trolling motor, 1-series 31 for electronics and boat electronics of which boat electronics iis minimal, and 1 for engine only. Single wire to mid section 8 gage to fuse panel for electronics 10 gage to each of mega 9, mega 10, 360 and a hook 5 for mapping only networked except for hook 5. Planning on changing hook 5 for another helix and just waiting to sneak it bought from the wife finding out.

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  6. #6
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    four 31 series batteries in my Jon boat would exceed weight limits with me in it. ha
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  7. #7
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    Have you physically checked the voltage at the depth finder many of these units are way off on the voltage reading. My Helix 12 is off by 1 volt so I lowered my alarm to coincide.

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