Fiberglass gelcoat restoration

[Scrapper]

I've done a few of these but just thought I would share. I know most of you fish out of aluminum boats but for those of us with fiberglass we all know what oxidation is and how ugly it is. Its probably one of the hardest things to get rid of once you have it. I have about a 6 step process to get rid of it. Takes about 10-12hours for a 18 ft bass boat, but WELL worth it. I'm doing one right now out in the shop, while coming back in and posting on here...lol. If anyone is interested I'll post what i do...its pretty lengthy but will be glad to help anyone that wants to get that showroom look back to their fiberglass boat.

These are pics of the Ranger 374V I'm doing for one of my students parents now. I'm done for the night, did one side of the topcap...took 5 hours including taking off the rails, cleats, windshield, and bilge vents.

Before:
















After:

[Flat Foot]

I for one would like to know how to restore the gel coat. May not need to now but I do have a fibre glass boat and may need to latter.
Thanks

[bigfish5]

Wow That Look Great. Yes Please Tell Us The Procedure. I Dont Have A Boat That Need It Right Now But I Have Had Them In The Past And I Am Currently Looking For A Project Boat For My Brother. So We Might Need To Know How When We Find Him A Boat. Thanks In Advance,

[NITRONATE]

I would love to find out how you cleaned up that boat. Nice job.

[Scrapper]

Well, this is what I do. There are ALOT of products out there to use. Most of mine you can get at walmart. Here is a list of what I use...it should all be here.

Mothers Powerball (2)

6" buffing pad (1) the foam one...not a wool one. I do not remember what you call it

Depending on the severity of the gel 800grit, 1000grit, 1500grit, 2000grit wet/dry sand paper..the type you use on a block...in the area of walmart with the bondo and such...the block is there too. MAKE SURE ITS WET/DRY

Rubbing compound...3M is best...I use turtle wax because its at walmart

Polishing compound...3M finesse II is best...I use turtle wax because its at walmart

McGuires Flagship marine wax....this is the best in my opinion

Spray bottle (for water) you will use LOTS of water.

Cord drill...try to stay under 3000rpm...above that you can take a chance of burning it if your not careful

Brown paper towels..I use brown rolls because you'll use ALOT and they are cheap

Lots of mountain dew, an iPod, and some time. :D


I start off by cleaning the boat...just wash it and let it dry. I then start the process "depending on the serverity of the oxidation" with 800 or 1000 grit wet/dry on the block. I wouldn't go to 600grit...I have before but you have to be careful and I'd rather just work more with the 800 instead of chancing it. One piece will last about 3 ft. Use your sprayer and wet a 3ft area. Wet the paper too. Start slow and start sanding...you will feel resistance. DO NOT BEAR DOWN...alway sand back and forth the length of the boat...never circles. As you are sanding you are spraying water with the other hand. As I said before..you'll use LOTS of water. When the resistance goes away...ie...the sanding is smooth...spray the area sanded off and wipe dry. Move on to next spot. I would do one whole side at a time. You will not want to try to tackle the whole boat as by the time you make it to the other side your sanding will suffer...and you WILL notice in later steps. Take breaks....this is a LONG process and do not try to do it all at once. After you get the side done and dry....use lots of water to wash and dry. It WILL be messy. The stuff coming up will by white and creamy looking...this is the oxidation. As you dry you'll notice the color coming back...it will not look good though...but don't worry. It will come. You'll see small scratches from the sanding when you look at the reflection of it...this is normal and part of the process.

Now that you have done the 800 or 1000grit move to the next grit...do this entire thing again....with every grit you have up to 2000grit. USE LOTS OF WATER...and wash and dry each time, as you'll have residue from the last...each time you bump up you have finer sandpaper...if you don't wash the previous you are still getting some of the last in the new.

After you are done sanding you should have a smooth surface by touch...it WILL NOT be shiney...don't worry though...it comes up next. Check all over your work at different angles....the color should be fairly consistent...if you see areas normally in the middle that look differnt you may need to hit it somemore...don't be scared...you'll know the spots that need it more. Because by now you have looked that boat over so many times you know exactly what a "not done" area looks like....and do not for one second think that "well...its okay..it will buff out"...NO...it won't...you have to get your wetsanding done. It will come out more that you didn't do it after you start polishing.

Now that your done with your sanding and its all good and washed, you are going to use your rubbing compound. Again, I use water. Spary the entire area with a good mist...I do the whole side at once. Now take some paper towel and mist it....get a good bit of rubbing compound on the towel and in a back and forth motion put it all over the area you just got done sanding. Make sure you cover it all really well. You do not have to bear down or anything as you are fixing to buff it. Now take your drill and put the foam (I'll have to make sure its foam...its NOT wool) Mist it with water, start buffing...I use the pad up on edge...go back and forth just like you were sanding earlier. Do not go full speed with this. Also do not let it dry as you would with wax. Also do not buff until its gone...go back and forth down the boat a couple times...make sure it stays moist. Once you are done wet down and dry...MAKE SURE its all gone...same with sanding...you are working your way to less and less abrasivness...so you do not want the old stuff hanging around.

Now you are going to do the same as you just did only you are using the polishing compound...and one of the mothers powerballs. These really are good deals...I'm on my 4th boat with one of them and its still going strong. You will use the same method as above...I would go 3 or 4 times back and forth with the polishing compound though. making sure its wet the entire time. not wet pastey like...just stays moist. REMEMBER...you'll use LOTS of water. Now wash it off with your sprayer and dry. Now check everything out...your getting a decent shine now...make sure you haven't missed an thing...because whenever you do, you have to go back to step one for that spot..trust me...NOT fun.. :D

Now the time you have been waiting for...the waxing...I mist the entire side with water...just a fine mist...then I apply the wax using the same motion but adding a few circles in it. I like to go back and forth a few times on the boat rubbing...not hard...as this is not necessary. Now let it set for 5 or 10...depending on the temp...DO NOT ANY OF THIS IN THE SUN!!. Now with the other power ball...DO NOT use the same one...as this goes back to the previous statements about moving to less abrasives until you get to the wax...you don't want to mix the stuff or your shooting yourself in the foot. Keep it ALL seperated while working. I like to mist water on the mothersball and then start buffing...on my drill I use full speed...it WILL sling ALL over the place so be ready...I buff back and forth down the whole side of the boat until all the wax is gone...this takes some time. If the wax seems to start getting pasty I spray more water on it and keep going...just mist...or even just mist the powerball again. The wax will eventually go away and you'll have a SLICK finish. The water goes back to my dad being in the military and a state trooper, he would use water when polishing his boots...I figured..heck, I'll try the water with my waxing...and IT WORKS! Very well I might add. I think thats about it. For a LONG lasting shine between waxings I recommend bassboatsaver...this is some GREAT stuff and will repel most anything on a hull...you can also spray it on seats, windshields...your truck...about anything. I think thats about it. Let me know if you have any other questions...sorry for the length of this but one can really mess up if you don't do it right. Trust me..lol. If I think of anything else I'll add it later.

[lhumphre]

you do the entire boat or just the top cap? good looking stuff though!!!!!!!!

[Grumpa]

That looks nice, I have a red javelin that is looking as bad as the blue or maybe worse. Maybe some day I might try that. Thanks for posting.

[champ202]

do u do the sidesand bottom or do u just do the top rail

[AgriHawg]

Looks good like always Scrapper! I thought that blue would look good once you cleaned it up. Now he just needs to have the carpet redone.

[drill instructor]

thanks scrapper, great post and great job. I will be printing this out and trying it on my boat.