Melted Fuse used by Trolling Motor

[GABoy]

Has anyone ever had a fuse actually melt that is supposed to be used by your trolling motor?

What could that mean?

1. The fuse was a 30 AMP fuse, was it too high of a amp fuse and it should be lower so it will blow first instead of melt? I put in a 15 AMP fuse after I saw that and it blew 2 of them almost immediately, but then the third one lasted for about 45 minutes before we got off the water. Once I got home I put in a 25 Amp fuse

2. Is there possibly a short-circuit somewhere, but wouldn't the fuse still blow first?

Any suggestions at all???

Thanks - GABoy

[CatFan]

Has anyone ever had a fuse actually melt that is supposed to be used by your trolling motor?

What could that mean?

1. The fuse was a 30 AMP fuse, was it too high of a amp fuse and it should be lower so it will blow first instead of melt? I put in a 15 AMP fuse after I saw that and it blew 2 of them almost immediately, but then the third one lasted for about 45 minutes before we got off the water. Once I got home I put in a 25 Amp fuse

2. Is there possibly a short-circuit somewhere, but wouldn't the fuse still blow first?

Any suggestions at all???

Thanks - GABoy

The only thing that I can see causing a fuse to melt, and by melt, I'm assuming you mean the plastic body of the fuse, is undersized wiring, or a poor connection at the fuseholder. Both of these situations would cause heat that could melt the fuse. Big fuses usually deform some when they blow.

[Barnacle Bill]

You most likely have a bad connection somewhere. They have to be clean and tight. When they are not, that increases resistence which increases amps which blow fuses. When a fuse blows, it really melts due to the increase current flowing thru it. Also it is possible your trolling motor is binding inside which will increase amperage and may need to be rebuilt.

[GABoy]

The only thing that I can see causing a fuse to melt, and by melt, I'm assuming you mean the plastic body of the fuse, is undersized wiring, or a poor connection at the fuseholder. Both of these situations would cause heat that could melt the fuse. Big fuses usually deform some when they blow.

Okay, I didn't realize that it would actually deform when it blows...would a 30 Amp do that?

The reason I ask is because my trolling motor actually stopped working so I checked the fuse and it appeared to be bulging because it had melted some....so maybe it is fairly normal then, but I just moved down to a 25 AMP and was planning on keeping a good eye on it to see if anything else happens. The trolling motor itself is less than 5 months old and it is a Minn Kota AutoPilot, so I am really hoping that is not the problem.

[Tunica]

Okay, I didn't realize that it would actually deform when it blows...would a 30 Amp do that?

The reason I ask is because my trolling motor actually stopped working so I checked the fuse and it appeared to be bulging because it had melted some....so maybe it is fairly normal then, but I just moved down to a 25 AMP and was planning on keeping a good eye on it to see if anything else happens. The trolling motor itself is less than 5 months old and it is a Minn Kota AutoPilot, so I am really hoping that is not the problem.

Minn Kota on MY 40lb foot control states that it needs a 50 amp fuse inline to the battery, I know I blew a 30 the other day when I trolled into short water and clay. Just a thought

Ken

[LakeHardingSpirit]

I had a similar experience, after practically burning a good trolling motor up several years ago, of course too, it could be a matter of oiling the motor in various places, some disassembly required, I discovered that there was fishing line tangled around the shaft of the trolling motor, this was creating a bind on the shaft, some lessons are hard learned, but life is a dance we learn as we go, had to throw that in.

[FishCrazed]

With a new TM at risk I'd check EVERY connection/solder joint as well as look for any spots where the TM wires/cables may rub against the boat ribs for worn sheath. I'd suggest using cable the size that your auto/truck battery cable is. That size cable has a heavy sheath as well as being able to safely carry the amps needed by your TM. Also go to your marine dealer and get the breakers in an amperage recommended by your TM manuel. When they trip you just rest them as you would your house breaker. I think they run about $5.

I hope thais helps and take the time to inspect every inch of your TM Cable from the battery to your TM. Also look at the TM plug as they can get corosion and cause serious heat in the resistance!

[deputyking]

I agree with the others that the problem is in a bad connection. If the TM was shorted out or pulling too much current, then the fuse would have blown. The problem with bad connections is that it produces heat and the heat is what caused the melted parts. Look for a bad crimp on the wire connection to the fuse holder. Also make sure the fuse holder is tightly seated to the fuse. When you replace the fuse and put a load on it, check for warm spots and if there is anything heating up then the problem is not corrected.

[Moose1am]

Well I can definatly say that I have experienced that problem and figured out a way to fix it too.

Last summer I lost my old 25 year old Motor Guide Hawg trolling motor to old age and purchased and installed a new 50 lb thrust Minn-kota All Terrain Trolling motor. Then I noticed that the fuses kept blowing about half way to my fishing spots on Blue Grass Pit. I read the Minn-Kota Manual and found out that I required a FIFTY AMP (50 amp) circuit breaker and 4 GAUGE wires to make that thing work. Well I have 10 gauges wire already in my boat but the fuse holder used automotive type fuses and the actually fuse holder was warping and melting due to the heat.

I went to the local wholesale electrical supply house and purchased a 50 amp circuit breaker and installed that in place of the fuse holder at the front of my boat. I had to go to the local car radio place to get some heavy duty amp boxes that I used to spice the 10 gauge wires together to make the connection. Cost me a fortune but ever since the new trolling motor is working much better now.

These new trolling motors pull a lot more amps though the wires and require better wiring and connections and bigger fuses or circuit breakers.

Now if the circuit breaker trips I can just use my foot to push the button back in to reset the circuit all from the confort of the front pedistal seat on my boat.

Has anyone ever had a fuse actually melt that is supposed to be used by your trolling motor?

What could that mean?

1. The fuse was a 30 AMP fuse, was it too high of a amp fuse and it should be lower so it will blow first instead of melt? I put in a 15 AMP fuse after I saw that and it blew 2 of them almost immediately, but then the third one lasted for about 45 minutes before we got off the water. Once I got home I put in a 25 Amp fuse

2. Is there possibly a short-circuit somewhere, but wouldn't the fuse still blow first?

Any suggestions at all???

Thanks - GABoy

[Tunica]

Yup I was surprised also to READ the manual and find out a 50 amp is required...No shorts or nothing...JUST check the MANUAL before you disassemble your boats wiring.