I do it just because it adds a little more stretch, and is much easier to tie. Braid can be a pain to tie in small eyelets and stuff.
This. I have a 7'6" ultralight with 6lb braid. Its like thread. Its extremely thin and it hangs up everywhere. wraps up around the tip, around the lure, everything. I use a 4 ft or so Flouro leader to reduce it. When that thread thin braid knots or wraps up, its hard to get undone or even see it.
1982 Astroglass 156, 80hp Merc, MG Xi5 80lb TM, Lowrance Reveal 7 TS, Lowrance Hook2 7 SS
1994 Procraft 20ft 200 Dual Pro - Being restoredTechno2000 LIKED above post
I do it just because it adds a little more stretch, and is much easier to tie. Braid can be a pain to tie in small eyelets and stuff.
Techno2000 LIKED above post
I have used 4# Nan o fil ever since it came out. I tie about 4 feet of 4# flouro to it with a uni to uni knot. Works great for me. With nan o fil, you don't set the hook. You just sweep the rod tip up as you continue to reel. The flouro saves my nan o fil. And nan o fil is so slick that tying it to a jig or spinner is almost impossible.
Everyone has their own opinion and that is a good thing. You go fishing to have fun and whatever gives you the greatest confidence in achieving that goal is what you should be doing. That being said, I use 2# test Fireline with a 4# test fluorocarbon leader. Reason being, I like a little bit of stretch when the fish initially hits. And the fact that fluorocarbon has a much greater abrasion resistance than straight braid. I do not believe visibility has anything to do with it. JMO.
"A voyage in search of knowledge need never abandon the spirit of adventure."
I had a Striper break off my 20# braid tied directly to a spoon. I added 18# flouro leader and haven't had another break. I had heard that braid was subject to abrasion and I figured 2 or 3 good Stripers with rough mouths could lead to a break.
Mark 1:17 ...I will make you fishers of men
Yeah, the idea of adding a leader to braid probably originated with bigame Anglers who found that braid wasn't very resistant to abrasions.
i do this.....keep some heavier line on most of the spool and just the last couple feet being vanishing line on my jigging poles
I use my walleye trolling rods to pull cranks for crappie. Shakespeare downrigger rods 8"3" are my favorite. They are soft yet have plenty of backbone. Sensitivity is not needed but these rods do show when a crank gets fouled. All of my reels are line counters spooled with PP 30/8. Also I have a small good quality roller swivel tied to the braid 6' of 8# flouro leader tied to the swivel and ending with a cross lock snap. Sometimes I go to a heavier leader for walleye like 12-15 # because many times I'm banging bottom . Something I am consider is going to a longer leader of Trilene XL 8# just to get a little more stretch. I've seen a lot of hits and misses because of hooks tearing out I believe. Got to have some give if you pull braid.
^^Same. I like the small roller swivel that can pass through the rod eyelets without damaging the rod or line. The cross lock swivel makes changing lures fast and easy. When lines get tangled that snap makes clearing the tangle a snap too. The little bit of stretch fluorocarbon gives helps absorb last runs the fish might take beside the boat. I keep my drag set where a big crappie can pull some and not so snug that they can pull the hooks.
Jim