SLABSAUCE Fish Attractant |
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 22

Thread: UL rod 5’ or 6’ spinning of course!!!

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    In a Sharknado, fighting off sharks
    Posts
    7,871
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    I float tube a lot. All my UL rods are around 6’6”, but a six-footer would be fine.
    Future moderator of the “Does My Big Toe Look Infected To You? (PIC HEAVY) forum
    Thanks Just_Bass thanked you for this post

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Bartlett, TN
    Posts
    5,271
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    I use both, short for up close work and long for longer distance. 5.5 & 6.6'
    Thanks Just_Bass thanked you for this post

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Lindale
    Posts
    318
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    I have several rods that range from 6' to 10'. For the application that you are describing, I normally go with my B'n'M Sam's Super Sensitive in 7'.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Crappie.com Fishing mobile app



    Likes DRFISHDUCK LIKED above post
    Thanks Just_Bass thanked you for this post

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Central Oregon
    Posts
    213
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Most my rods are 6'6" to 7', I just like them. Best thing for you to do is find an inexpensive one the length your thinking of and get it and try it. What is perfect for me may leave a bunch to be desired for you!

    On another thread they were questioning the Kastking round reel. Shoot I'd never even heard of them so looked on /amazon and there it was, $45 I think it was. I don't need another reel but for $45 I figured I'd try one just for the heck of it. Got a 6'6" rod to use it on for $18 also. Point being the best way to know what will work for you is to get one inexpensively and if you like it, you can spend more on another down the road. If it doesn't work for you, your not out a lot of money! I have a couple 8' rods with nice reels on them, ABU reels. One has a 6500 on it and doesn't get a lot of use. The other has a 5000 on it and doesn't get a lot of use either. I like those longer rod's in salt water but seldom fish there, long trip to the coast! They would be good, I think, for salmon and steelhead too but I don't fish for them. If you think you might like something, try it, borrow if you can or buy inexpensive.
    Last edited by Don Fischer; 06-23-2019 at 10:13 AM.
    Likes DRFISHDUCK LIKED above post
    Thanks Just_Bass thanked you for this post

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    New Orleans
    Posts
    341
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    To me, the 6'6 is the perfect length,not too short, and not too long.
    Thanks Just_Bass thanked you for this post

  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Canyon Lake ca
    Posts
    155
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Thanks guys for all opinions, I’m really appreciate it, btw these pics show some of idea where i plan to fish at. I normally walk around pitching for bass but I know there are plenty of bluegill there.
    I want spinning rod that can handle 1/32oz jig or lower with enough backbone not wimpy as my 7’ Daiwa spinmatic for more accuracy and targeting mostly bluegill. I actually went to local to check out Daiwa presso 5’6 compare to same length spinmatic.
    Attached Images Attached Images    

  7. #17
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Canyon Lake ca
    Posts
    155
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by eagle 1 View Post
    I like the 6'2"-7'. Anything shorter seems as if you are pitching rather than casting . Most likely the fast tip with backbone are not easily found . Most have no backbone or a very stiff tip . JMO.
    This is my thought too that why I went with CDM (Chinese domestic market) for most of my UL rod, I got another 6’3 UL coming but that for baitcaster. Before I bought my shimano sensilite UL, I was back and forth between sensilite and presso. I end up with sensilite due to backbone but the rod cannot handle 1/32oz jig very well (very excel on 1/16 jighead btw). I might have to order UL rod with solid tip from CDM, if I’m really gonna go this route.

  8. #18
    CrappiePappy's Avatar
    CrappiePappy is offline Super Moderator - 2013 Man Of The Year * Crappie.com Supporter
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Lexington, KY
    Posts
    19,356
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    If you have to deal with many places like those pictured, where you are possibly confined between two obstacles (or overhanging obstacles) .... having a rod with a fast or very fast action tip can be a positive factor. Learning to "Shoot" the jig, rather than cast it (w/spinning reel) can get you "between" and "underneath" the obstacles that limit your ability to cast. It's the same principle we use to "Shoot Docks", where we get our jig way back under docks by basically "slingshotting" the jig. Works well when in a boat and trying to put the jig up close to the bank when there's overhanging tree branches that make an overhand cast impossible.

    "Shooting" a jig is basically :
    Rod in one hand - jig in the other (held with hook point pointing away from hand, hand under the jig & holding jig by the head)
    Drop jig down to about halfway from rod tip to reel
    Open bail & hold the line with rod hand finger (just like you normally do when casting with a spinning reel)
    Pull jig back to the point where rod tip is loaded tight (usually just in front of or under the reel)
    Aim your shot trajectory with the line between the rod tip & jig (not the rod blank, itself)
    Release the jig & then release the line when jig passes the rod tip.

    A little backyard practice on timing of releases will get you started.
    Too early a line finger release = short or no distance
    Too late a line finger release = jig goes air born instead of forward

    It may not always be necessary to use this casting method, but it's always good to have it in your arsenal of techniques when the situation requires it. Having a rod with a fast/very fast action tip allows you to load the rod in a more restricted space than a rod with a softer action or parabolic bend.

    And, of course, there are plenty of "dock shooting" videos on YouTube, by various "pros" & average anglers, that you can watch and compare techniques. (or help you understand my instructions )
    Thanks Just_Bass thanked you for this post

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    15,617
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Tight Quarters

    I also fish tight stuff and what Crappiepappy said is right on. I shoot about 50 or 60% of the time for the accuracy being as close to the bank as possible. 2lb Nanofil line and 1/64 jig on a 6’ one piece rod is my go to in amongst all that junk and I get broken off very seldom that’s fish related. A 4lb clear leader is always on the end. Pic below is what my fishin grounds look like, not much different than yours. Let us know what you decide.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    We are all just passing by,
    And occupy our chair for but a short while
    Those we get to sit with are Gods gift
    Thanks Just_Bass thanked you for this post

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    TN
    Posts
    2,937
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Sounds like you need...and want....an JDM ajing rod solid tip. It will cast your 1/32 ounce with no problem at all and have a ton of backbone. There is a good selection of ajing rods in the lengths your looking at from Major Craft. Although I have not purchased anything off the CDM I know they sell a lot of ajing style rods also.


    Regards
    Thanks Just_Bass thanked you for this post

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

BACK TO TOP