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  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by wicklundrh View Post
    So, what exactly is the difference:

    I'll try to explain using the St Croix example I used above:
    They sell a COTS rod with a specific set of guide eyes (cheap). The rod has a split grip (a lot of us hate them), and it is only sold with EVA foam. Many of us in the northern climate prefer cork. So, you are either stuck with this particual rod as it is and purchase a reel that will balance it, you find something else, OR you have one built.

    This rod comes with 7 guide eyes. Yes, they are probably ok however you are going to be using this rod for jigging. 7 eyes doesn't follow the rod bend as much as you would like and creates a "pinch point" in the rod. This usually results in broken rods at the pinch point. As a custom builder, you see this and you put in (9) guide eyes. This eliminates the pinch point, puts a lower profile on the line running from the reel to the tip, and in turn makes the rod better.

    The COTS rod reel seat usually have masking tape built up underneith them to make up the gap between the blank and the reel seat. This tape has been known in some instances (when not applied correctly) to deaden the feel of the rod. A good builder (or company) will utilizing carbon reel seat arbors, graphite arbors, OR, they will apply the tape correctly, sealing it with the appropriate level of appoxy which extends the sensativity of the rod through the blank and into the reel seat. THIS is one of the major differences between a 20 dollar rod and a 250 dollar rod. As stated above, FEEL. I could build two identicle rods with two different reel seat arbors and you WOULD be able to tell the difference immediately!

    COTS rods will only balance certain reels. You may have to go larger (say a 2500 series instead of a 1500 series reel) in order for the rod to balance. This results in the take off of the line leaving the bail to be different or larger than the 1500 reel. Custom builders use a formula to specifically place the first guide eye (known as the stripper guide). This is done so the line is not deflected which results in longer casting, less friction on retrieves, and little to no eye wear.

    Take notice when you look at a lot of rods. Chances are they are using a 25mm or 30mm stripper eye. The reason for this is that they cannot be for certain which reel you are going to use so, the bigger the eye in a basic or generic placement helps cover bases. As you go up in price, you will notice guide eyes getting smaller, there are more of them, and their profiles are much different. As I said previously, you can pay 35 cents for one guide eye or 25 bucks. There is a huge difference.

    Weight is another issue. The same I can build the same St. Croix blank built at the factory and reduce the overall weight by 1/3rd. It doesn't sound like much to sum, but that is a huge diffence to others. Especially when you use it for 8 to 12 hours per day.

    Then you have materials. You have all glass, all composit, glass composit, graphite, high modulus graphite, different resins and different techniques to apply it all. Each componant has its advantages for one or several applications. Purchasing an ATV rod for all purposes usuallys ends with the user having a rod that isn't specifically great at any one task but does ok at several.

    Lightweight, sensativity of feel, sensativity of the materials, castability, form, fit, function all play a role in the overall difference. I can try and answer specific questions if you ask but know that there is a difference. Oftentimes, the difference between a higher dollar rod and a lower dollar one has nothing to do with the blank itself but more the componants that go in to building it.

    Ever seen a 10 dollar eagle claw blank that is YELLOW! Lots of us have. Heck, I own a few of them. Would you be surprised if I told you that that exact same blank is built from a different company and is sold for 80 bucks? You guys probably own them! The difference between the rods (besides the yellow color) is the materials and componants that went in to making the rod. One of them probably took someone 20 minutes to make, the other took them two hours to make. In the end, there is a difference between the two rods in terms of feel. I've cut many rods apart just to see what is under a reel seat. Trust me, the above holds true most of the time when dealing with cheap rods and tape arbors!

    I can go on for days on differences in materials, componants, propriatary blends, and so on. In the end you can choose to try one or not try one.
    Very informative. More information than I ever dreamed I would get and you are telling me there is much more. =)

    The rod is more of a tool than I have ever really thought it to be. Should be no surprise to me that there are advantages if you are specifically looking for a tool for a definite purpose. I am a general fisherman and never thought of a rod in the terms you described. Much less what kind of spinning reel is really the best value over time.

    My admiration to you guys that have the knowledge to figure it all out.

  2. #42
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    Nov 2018
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    Here's my 2 cents If fishing under a float---any crappie rod will work . If casting baits the feel is not as important so again most any crappie rod works for me.

    If trolling--I see no real reason to get extra sensitive rods at premium prices. But if I'm fishing a "feel" bait I can justify spending a bit more for a good sensitive rod.

    Crappie rods ----$50 is my range.

    But I do fish a lot of bottom bouncing baits when I fish for bass and I will and do spend a lot more than $50 for a top notch bass rod. Fitzgerald Rods are my favorite at the moment.

    Life's short---enjoy it. We're blessed to be able to spend money on our hobbies. Some folks in the world don't have extra money. Truly blessed.

  3. #43
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    Oct 2015
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    i only fish with corks unless i use a swim bait which is rare i might buy the gulp 1 inch minnows and most dont use a cork for them i hear id like to have something decent but trash level but something thats a little sensitive like the crappie maxx rod i posted i loved the feel of it very sensitive thin and long just hope if i catch me a 8 pound catfish it wont break

  4. #44
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    Oct 2015
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    ugh i hate that u need a longer rod to cast further because i prefer tiny 4,6 rods for panfish i guess its fine for live bait castiing minnows but jigs n lures ill need the 6,6

  5. #45
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    I’d hate to admit what I’ve got wrapped up in trolling rods alone...


    Sent from my iPhone using Crappie.com Fishing mobile app

  6. #46
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    Feb 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alphahawk View Post
    Yes....here are a few I own....plan on purchasing about 50 more before I can no longer fish.

    RegardsAttachment 331338Attachment 331339


    Sent from my iPad using Crappie.com Fishing mobile app
    Very nice


    Sent from my iPhone using Crappie.com Fishing mobile app
    Likes Alphahawk LIKED above post

  7. #47
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    I have owned both Loomis as well as Sage flyrods and still use them today. Do I need a rod like that? No, but there is a difference. Most fishermen are not able to tell but I will say that a fly rod is more likely to make a difference. That being said I have a lot more $30-$60 rods than expensive ones.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    God bless Charlie Brewer and Bobby Garland.

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by jigfisherx View Post
    I have owned both Loomis as well as Sage flyrods and still use them today. Do I need a rod like that? No, but there is a difference. Most fishermen are not able to tell but I will say that a fly rod is more likely to make a difference. That being said I have a lot more $30-$60 rods than expensive ones.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    This exactly. Heck my favorite inshore set is under $150.00 rod, reel and braid.

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by huntinslabs View Post
    This exactly. Heck my favorite inshore set is under $150.00 rod, reel and braid.
    I watched a Youtube video where a guy was catching redfish with a Zebco Dock Demon. He wasn't recommending it as a "standard redfish rig". He was just making the point that you can catch fish on just about anything.

    You don't have to agonize over tackle decisions. Just buy tackle you like and go fishin'.
    Last edited by deathb4disco; 02-21-2019 at 10:51 AM.
    Likes INDyak LIKED above post

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by wicklundrh View Post
    So, what exactly is the difference:

    I'll try to explain using the St Croix example I used above:
    They sell a COTS rod with a specific set of guide eyes (cheap). The rod has a split grip (a lot of us hate them), and it is only sold with EVA foam. Many of us in the northern climate prefer cork. So, you are either stuck with this particual rod as it is and purchase a reel that will balance it, you find something else, OR you have one built.

    This rod comes with 7 guide eyes. Yes, they are probably ok however you are going to be using this rod for jigging. 7 eyes doesn't follow the rod bend as much as you would like and creates a "pinch point" in the rod. This usually results in broken rods at the pinch point. As a custom builder, you see this and you put in (9) guide eyes. This eliminates the pinch point, puts a lower profile on the line running from the reel to the tip, and in turn makes the rod better.

    The COTS rod reel seat usually have masking tape built up underneith them to make up the gap between the blank and the reel seat. This tape has been known in some instances (when not applied correctly) to deaden the feel of the rod. A good builder (or company) will utilizing carbon reel seat arbors, graphite arbors, OR, they will apply the tape correctly, sealing it with the appropriate level of appoxy which extends the sensativity of the rod through the blank and into the reel seat. THIS is one of the major differences between a 20 dollar rod and a 250 dollar rod. As stated above, FEEL. I could build two identicle rods with two different reel seat arbors and you WOULD be able to tell the difference immediately!

    COTS rods will only balance certain reels. You may have to go larger (say a 2500 series instead of a 1500 series reel) in order for the rod to balance. This results in the take off of the line leaving the bail to be different or larger than the 1500 reel. Custom builders use a formula to specifically place the first guide eye (known as the stripper guide). This is done so the line is not deflected which results in longer casting, less friction on retrieves, and little to no eye wear.

    Take notice when you look at a lot of rods. Chances are they are using a 25mm or 30mm stripper eye. The reason for this is that they cannot be for certain which reel you are going to use so, the bigger the eye in a basic or generic placement helps cover bases. As you go up in price, you will notice guide eyes getting smaller, there are more of them, and their profiles are much different. As I said previously, you can pay 35 cents for one guide eye or 25 bucks. There is a huge difference.

    Weight is another issue. The same I can build the same St. Croix blank built at the factory and reduce the overall weight by 1/3rd. It doesn't sound like much to sum, but that is a huge diffence to others. Especially when you use it for 8 to 12 hours per day.

    Then you have materials. You have all glass, all composit, glass composit, graphite, high modulus graphite, different resins and different techniques to apply it all. Each componant has its advantages for one or several applications. Purchasing an ATV rod for all purposes usuallys ends with the user having a rod that isn't specifically great at any one task but does ok at several.

    Lightweight, sensativity of feel, sensativity of the materials, castability, form, fit, function all play a role in the overall difference. I can try and answer specific questions if you ask but know that there is a difference. Oftentimes, the difference between a higher dollar rod and a lower dollar one has nothing to do with the blank itself but more the componants that go in to building it.

    Ever seen a 10 dollar eagle claw blank that is YELLOW! Lots of us have. Heck, I own a few of them. Would you be surprised if I told you that that exact same blank is built from a different company and is sold for 80 bucks? You guys probably own them! The difference between the rods (besides the yellow color) is the materials and componants that went in to making the rod. One of them probably took someone 20 minutes to make, the other took them two hours to make. In the end, there is a difference between the two rods in terms of feel. I've cut many rods apart just to see what is under a reel seat. Trust me, the above holds true most of the time when dealing with cheap rods and tape arbors!

    I can go on for days on differences in materials, componants, propriatary blends, and so on. In the end you can choose to try one or not try one.
    This is a fantastic post and I was getting ready to post something similar until I read this post. I just got into rod making and it's amazing all the choices that are out there when it comes to a custom rod. Properly spaced guides, correct amount of guides, right sized guides, and guide material all make a huge difference on rod performance, castabilty, and rod weight.

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