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Thread: Need some help with my helix 5 depth finder

  1. #1
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    Default Need some help with my helix 5 depth finder


    Guys/gals, I was wondering if any of you could help me out with an issue I am having with my Helix 5. Started at the end of the day Saturday at Darbonne. The unit would just cut off for no reason. I would re start it and it would last a couple of minutes and shut off again! Help please! I really dont want to send it back to the shop for the 3rd time if I dont have to. Thanks in advance.

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  2. #2
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    Sounds like low voltage check ground. check voltage to unit with a load on it.
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  3. #3
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    I have the Helix 9. I had one of the ears on the tray, where it plugs in the back, break off. We were fishing a very rough Lake Fork, while running across the lake, the Helix popped out of the mount, yanking the tray out, breaking the ear. Anyway, mine will also shut off, due to the tray not holding tightly anymore, I have to push it back in, and works fine until it gets rough again. Yours may have something similar going on.
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    First I assume the Sonar is not hooked into the power for the TM ,, With it starting at the end of the Day, Did you have the Voltage showing,,, If the Voltage is too low it will shut down automatically. Bros was wired to his TM and when the TM was used, the Voltage Drop would shut his down too ... If you had not told me at the Gathering about water getting inside the first two units from Rain water while at home with the Boat in the yard, I would have never Known as there has never been anything said on the Electronics DI/SI forum about HB units out in the weather ... Hope it is Low Voltage for you
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  5. #5
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    Dwayne, most likley a voltage problem. Can you tell us how and where you have your power wire hooked up. Usually I recommend running a set of wires in 12/14 gauge straight to battery and not to a connection on a buss bar of fuses installed on the boat. Get a spade fuse connector at auto parts store and hook at battery with 3 amp fuse on positive side. Run those 2 wires to wherever your unit is mounted. Before you run them twist the 2 in a lazy twist similar to braiding hair. That's called a twisted pair and works to reduce the chance of interference. If you have the tools and knowledge solder the wires together using heat shrink to seal. Rather than just butt connector. If you have the factor red plastic fuse holder with glas fuse that is worst cause of bad connections and needs to go away.

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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cray View Post
    Dwayne, most likley a voltage problem. Can you tell us how and where you have your power wire hooked up. Usually I recommend running a set of wires in 12/14 gauge straight to battery and not to a connection on a buss bar of fuses installed on the boat. Get a spade fuse connector at auto parts store and hook at battery with 3 amp fuse on positive side. Run those 2 wires to wherever your unit is mounted. Before you run them twist the 2 in a lazy twist similar to braiding hair. That's called a twisted pair and works to reduce the chance of interference. If you have the tools and knowledge solder the wires together using heat shrink to seal. Rather than just butt connector. If you have the factor red plastic fuse holder with glas fuse that is worst cause of bad connections and needs to go away.

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    ATC & ATO Weatherproof Fuse Holders - 12 Gauge
    Yes I have it wire directly to the battery. I also have the TM wired to the same battery but separate wires. I do have the fuse on the positive side, it is the square fuze that comes with the unit. Thanks for all the responses and keep them coming! I want get to look at it today, have to fry fish for the in laws.

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    Dwyane
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    SMILE- A curve that can set a lot of things straight!

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    Dwayne you really should have it wired to your cranking battery instead of your TM battery...two reasons...less apt to get interferrance...and it will get more constant voltage. And use at least 14 guage wire. 12 would be even better.
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    Quote Originally Posted by "G" View Post
    Dwayne you really should have it wired to your cranking battery instead of your TM battery...two reasons...less apt to get interferrance...and it will get more constant voltage. And use at least 14 guage wire. 12 would be even better.
    Mine is also wired to the TM battery...if I move it to the cranking battery, and use it all day, is there any risk of it running down the battery to the point of being unable to crank the motor? (Non-electrician here!)... I've had my depth finder kick off at the end of the day as well, only to discover the trolling batter was running down. Hit the pedal and the screen would kick off.
    Thanks all.

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    What is the model number on your unit? It does sound like voltage issues from what has been described.

  10. #10
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    Looking at the specs from the website it looks as 10.8VDC is the lowest acceptable voltage the unit will stay powered up on. If you had been fighting the wind all day like most of us your voltage on the batter could have been floating just above this and with the in rush current of starting the trolling motor could have pulled it below that 10.8VDC just enough to cut the unit off. You could also remove the power plug out of the helix and use a voltmeter to measure the voltage at the plug and move the cable around to rule out a possible short in the power wire. Just a few thoughts.
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