Thread: Livescope drain on starting battery

It has a 4amp pull, so yeah it might be a negative factor on a starting battery. I do know that my buddy that has one has his connected to a battery of its own.

I think most are using a designated battery for the scope. I could be wrong though. I have a designated battery (actually 2 in parallel) just for the graph and black box. My cranking battery is a group 31 with two helix units running off it plus bilge pumps, livewells etc. I wouldn't consider it a wise choice to run the livescope off a simple group 24 cranking battery for a long period of time. They do use a good bit of power. I've never seen the need for the extra CCA that a true cranking battery provides. Of course, it doesn't get that cold in MS and during the winter months my boat is stored in a heated shop. If you go that route may look into a good deep cycle battery in either group 29 or 31 with a good reserve capacity and decent CCA if it's a concern in your area.

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I run my PLS and 106sv graph with a dedicated lithium battery. I only have a single console graph (HB H9 MSI+ G3N) that runs off the cranking batt - for wiring convenience, mostly. It doesn't use enough power to be a factor, and usually, the big motor is on when I'm using it.

I'm in the process of hooking up a new livescope system. I went with a 30Ah lithium battery (6lbs.) and a 2amp charger for it. Less than $200, cheaper than a good AGM. My starting battery already has 3 Humminbirds hooked up to it plus everything else. We'll see how that does.

Mine is on a dedicated 35ah battery. Zero issues and last all day.

Put a cutoff switch on the cable to battery, turn off if not using, otherwise be careful.

That's why I put a AGM dual purpose for the cranking battery. A LS will expose a weak/bad battery in short order.

Live scope, Garmin 8612 XSV, and 93sv are all on one AGM class 31 battery. I fished 8 hours today and had 12.4 volts when I came in.