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Thread: Helix 10 problems

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barnacle Bill View Post
    At 12.2 volts the battery is at 60%

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    The voltage at the unit will not be the same as the voltage of the battery. It would be good to know the battery voltage .. and .. the voltage the unit displays in order to determine how much drop their is across the wiring circuit.
    From my observations of various unit voltage displays .... 12.2 at the UNIT is sufficient as a minimum to indicate their isn't a wiring problem. Lower than that indicates a wiring or battery issue which can be determined by also checking the voltage at the battery.
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  2. #12
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    Been reading about running everything off the crank battery.
    Why not use the tm battery?

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Crappie.com Fishing mobile app
    G3PO

  3. #13
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    Cray is offline Crappie.com 2019 Man of Year, Supermod & Moderator of the Mechanics Forum * Crappie.com Supporter
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    Quote Originally Posted by brettw View Post
    Been reading about running everything off the crank battery.
    Why not use the tm battery?

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Crappie.com Fishing mobile app
    #1 is the increased possibility of interference from trolling motor
    #2 chances of low voltage as power decreases as you run trolling motor.
    #3 voltage fluctuations as motor turns off and on ( might not hurt unit but I can’t believe it’s good for electronics)
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  4. #14
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    #3 is not really an issue with modern switching voltage regulators, or even linear, for that matter, as long as the fluctuations are within the voltage specs of the particular unit.
    "Alive without breath, as cold as death; never thirsty, ever drinking, all in mail never clinking."

  5. #15
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    I'm having the same problem on my Helix 7. I do have a glass tube fuse installed so I'm going to switch that out for a blade fuse.

  6. #16
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    Changing fuse type will do nothing, nada, zilch, zip, niente. A fuse is rarely to blame for anything, unless it is blown. Check voltages on the status page. What do you see? Check connections. What size wire are you using, and how long of a run?
    "Alive without breath, as cold as death; never thirsty, ever drinking, all in mail never clinking."

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by jawjatek View Post
    Changing fuse type will do nothing, nada, zilch, zip, niente. A fuse is rarely to blame for anything, unless it is blown. Check voltages on the status page. What do you see? Check connections. What size wire are you using, and how long of a run?
    Sorry, but I partially disagree. A glass fuse holder .... especially in a marine environment .....can accumulate currosion and therefore voltage drop. The spade type (marine) fuse holders are much more reliable.

    I do agree that you want to know what voltage the unit shows .... see it in the system status or if you are using data boxes, select one of them to show voltage so you can see it all the time.
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  8. #18
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    I was watching the voltage on the unit for a few minutes. It seemed to fluctuate between 13.5 to 12.5.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by fishin_addict View Post
    I was watching the voltage on the unit for a few minutes. It seemed to fluctuate between 13.5 to 12.5.
    Was the main motor running? If it was, see what the voltage is without it running .... It shouldn't be fluctuating.
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  10. #20
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    Of course if a fuse is corroded it might be a problem, duh. Any connection with corrosion is a problem, but otherwise there is no electrical difference between 3AG and blades, which is truth, and I stick by it.
    "Alive without breath, as cold as death; never thirsty, ever drinking, all in mail never clinking."

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