I also have some cool screenshots to share once I can find my card reader.
Try 455. I used mine today a d it wouldn't register the bottom or show much without turning surface clarity off which made 455 cluttered and too trashy on the screen.
I use 455 about 95% of the time because it picks up more and easier. 800 will give cleaner defined structure if you adjust it right.
I found 56 on contrast is best for 455 and 72 and up for 800.
I also have some cool screenshots to share once I can find my card reader.
Here are some cool screen shots from my trip this morning.
Yes, this is with the structure scan. I found that I can everything better using the "White Background" setting to see structure, fish, etc. Once you get the contrast set correctly, you can easily see what are fish and what is structure.
This shows what I assume are bass busting a bait ball and breaking up the ball
This is another shot while I was trolling past the bass busting the shad.
You can clearly see the bass "on the attack" and swiming up into the bait busting through the shad.
This is a cool shot showing what I think are crappie tight to structure. And to think........I didn't have my crappie gear with me today!!!! FIgures. That's what I get for chasing bass today.
THIS is with the 800khz setting. For some reason, the contrast setting requires me to kick it up to aroun 70-74% to get the color back to red/yellow and show more contrast. This is one of the reasons I use 455 primarily. It picks up more and doesn't loose the bottom at higher speeds when on plane. I have my transducer on the transom and use a standard color graph on my trolling motor. I have a RAM mount for the Elite 5dsi that allows me to turn it towards the bow so I can watch both if I want to.
Does anyone know what these settings are for and what they do? I don't think the manual covers this...
NMEA 0183 is a combined electrical and data specification for communication between marine electronic devices such as echo sounder, sonars, anemometer, gyrocompass, autopilot, GPS receivers and many other types of instruments
Fair Winds and Following Seas
Bill H. PTC USN Ret
Chesapeake, Va
I have all of them checked on my unit. But, I'd have to check and see if I increased the Baud Rate.
Essentially .... the symbols in the GPS box can stay checked.
The SONAR box letters =
DBT = depth below transducer
DPT = depth
MTW = temp of water
VLW = distance traveled as measured by paddlewheel (if equiped)
VHW = velocity & heading as measured by paddlewheel (if equiped)
So, technically, unless you have a paddlewheel speed/distance system hooked up to your E5DSI, the VLW & VHW boxes can be left unchecked. The other three should remain checked. I don't know if unchecking the VLW & VHW boxes will make any difference in your sonar reading, since the system isn't getting any information from a paddlewheel, so leaving them checked shouldn't hurt anything.
If I'm wrong on any of these assumptions, would someone please correct me. I don't want to be giving out erroneous information.
... cp
I haven't bought one yet but I plan to soon. I fish out of a Jon boat in a small lake that is electric only. The max depth of this lake is 30 ft. Can anyone tell me if the mount that comes with the unit will tilt so the unit is at 90 deg with the mount. I need to mount it on the side of the bench that the front seat is mounted to because of space. I have to lay my poles across that bench and cannot mount the unit on top of the bench. Hope that makes sense. I also plan to mount the transducer on a portable transom mount that cabelas sells so I don't have to drill holes in transom. This thread has the best information that I've read anywhere on the internet and it has convinced me to upgrade from the old portable HB that I have been using. I can even take the good battery from the portable and use it with this unit instead of the trolling battery.