confused about color

**fishingarkansas** · 03-20-2015, 10:48 PM

I tried my first pour tonight but just did added a little of violet highlight but its coming out with a yellow ting to it does that mean im scorching it my temp is coming out at 415 after my first 130 sec just dont know why i have the yellow ting

**CTom** · 03-20-2015, 11:00 PM

415 is about 65 degrees too hot, even for the essential. While the essential will tolerate and little extra heat it doesn't meant that the temps should be pushed. Try stopping the cooking at 45 seconds and stir your plastic well. Then start the microwave again for 20 seconds and stop/stir again and check the temp this time. Do 15 second stop/stirs and temp reading from that point on until your plastic just reaches 350. That's all the hotter you should need it to get started.

**DrNip** · 03-21-2015, 08:08 AM

You must have a powerful microwave! My 900 watt microwave in 55ish degree garage temps takes 1.5 minutes and then a swirl of the cup, another 30 seconds and then stir with my stirrer and then another 15 seconds until liquid plasital hits roughly 355. Now my reheats don't take as long. Just experiment and log your cook times. You'll get it.

**fishingarkansas** · 03-21-2015, 11:35 AM

Yea someone gave me a 1200 watt for free lol

**DrNip** · 03-21-2015, 11:55 AM

Can't beat free.

**slabeye** · 03-21-2015, 12:38 PM

I have a question.....ok you say 350 degrees. I have problems with dimples and when I inject the top half it runs until the bottom half, with the hotter temps. 320's seems to work better for me...is that normal? or am I doing something wrong....

**DrNip** · 03-21-2015, 03:00 PM

350 on initial heat of liquid plasital. Re-heats don't need to get this hot. I shoot anywhere from 320-340 depending on mold and I'm shooting a body on a tail.

**fishingarkansas** · 03-22-2015, 10:05 AM

after playing with my microwave a lot yesterday I have realized to start off with 1 min and then go in 30 sec addons to get it to a safe temp so far no more scorching!

Now Can I jus add some color to the scorched plastic be all I put in there was some highlight. was thinking I could put in some dark color when I re heated it but not sure what the out come will be lol!

**cub48** · 03-24-2015, 05:32 AM

Yellow Violet may be your next best color for catching Crappie. LOL I make a white shad with the violet highlights that works good around here! I heat 30 seconds at a time and stir every time until it turns clear then i start 15 sec until i reach 350 F. Yes u can add a dark color also Chartreuse will work don't know how much violet u have in there might try little see what it looks like before u do the whole batch.

**CTom** · 03-24-2015, 08:56 AM

Originally Posted by slabeye

I have a question.....ok you say 350 degrees. I have problems with dimples and when I inject the top half it runs until the bottom half, with the hotter temps. 320's seems to work better for me...is that normal? or am I doing something wrong....

Lots of things going on here. For the dimples, make sure your mold is warmed up. Shoot a couple loads thru it and leave them in there for an extra 30 seconds before de-molding so the mold sucks up the heat. When the mold is warm, shoot your plastic on the cool side, say in the 320 to 330 range and then hold some light pressure on the injector after the rod stops....15 seconds or so, see if that doesn't help eliminate the dimples.

When you're doing a split body color shot, you need to inject the second color slower than normal. If you inject fast, you're using too much force and the plastic going in the gate will lift the color already in the mold and run under it as well as over it. The incoming plastic sort of floats the plastic that's already in the mold. Just slow down the injection speed.

The 350 degrees seems to be the universal temperature to assure the plastic' conversion from the raw state to usable. 350 is NOT necessarily the optimal working temperature. Every mold is different in how its likes to play and at what temperature. Then by introducing split colors to the mold and plastic a whole new set of rules come about regarding the mold and working temperature. It takes time and practice to iron all this stuff out and since everyone does things differently there are no set rules to follow, only suggestions. The rest each person has to tailor to his own way of doing things with his molds. It all comes together, but when you have some free time sit down and use junk plastic to practice some of the techniques that are giving you problems and you'll find your way.

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