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  • The SLAB RIG - or - What I learned on my Winter Vacation

    REPUBLISHED BY POPULAR DEMAND (Originally published here in 2015):

    I learned a few things during this years annual migration to Florida I thought I'd share. I discovered a "new to me" long lining rig I have had some good success with. Now I am certain I've not invented anything new here, and I'm sure someone on probably even has posted about this style rig, but it's new to me so I'm calling it a "Slab Rig". Go ahead and make a comment if you know this to be someone else's invention. And of course I know it's not an invention, it's just style of rigging probably used a million times before. So here's how I do up what I'm now calling a SLAB RIG!

    It's simple, it has a weighted jig on the front on a loop knot, and an un-weighted hook in the back. No big deal.

    Why I like this is, the weighted jig in the front holds the rig down and the un-weighted hook 12-18 inches behind it can more easily stay out of the way of that front jig. I've found that if you use two weighted jigs and have, lets say, a curly tailed grub on the front jig, the line can tangle with it. An un-weighted hook travels better back there. And you can put a minnow on the hook, or I like to use a Bobby Garland STROLL'R. It's essentially a curly tailed grub with a real nice action. What's also unique is, I put a Bobby Garland Slab Tickler (willow leaf flasher) in front of the hook to give it even more action.

    My choice for the front weighted jig is a Road Runner. More specifically a 1/16 OZ Reality Shad with willow leaf blade. The shad and that willow leaf travel real nice through the water without placing a big drag on the line, which keeps it down and out of the way of the lure coming off the loop knot above and behind it.

    I used hi visibility line in the above pictures just so it would show up better. Normally I'd use 8-10 lb test clear Fluorocarbon line. I also would spread out the jigs a little more than pictured. The loop knot hangs down 2 or three inches, and the rear jig should be at least 12-18 inches back. Try this out, I think you might like it.

    And I've been using a 1/16 ounce Roadrunner for the front bait. You could easily use something heavier for deeper waters and the baits would run cleanly in a similar manner. Here in Florida I'm fishing shallower waters so this setup is perfect. You can let a lot a line out (about a cast, or a cast and a half), and the baits are way far away from the boat, and still running relatively shallow in these shallower waters. It's been working for me. But then again I'm no expert, you judge this technique for yourself and let me know how you like it.

    Pictured above are the necessary tools/products needed for the Slab Rig. Although not necessary, I put the smallest plastic bead I can find behind the Slab Tickler so it spins a little better. A combination of stuff from some of out great sponsors. You can even use a Donnie Gnat for the rear un-weighted hook and tip it with a minnow. I've done that too, works great.

    TTI Blakemore Tru-Turn hooks work good for the rear bait because they seem to hold the Bobby Garland STROLL'R better. Slap a Slab Tickler in front of it and essentially you have what looks like an un-weighted Road Runner.

    Tip: Store these rigs in inexpensive sandwich bags. Just put one in each bag. At first I put two in each sandwich bag and it wasn't worth it, they always seem to tangle.

    Next tip: I use big clear plastic bags for everything. I throw the sandwich bags into the big bags. This way I can look through the big clear bag easily without having to take everything out and having it blow out the boat. I have two big bags like this, one for Crank Baits, and one for Long Lining rigs. I know there are all sorts of great storage devices for crank baits, but I'm cheap. I use the small snack bags for them. Snack bags for crank baits and sandwich bags for pre-tied long line rigs. Sandwich bags are deeper and that helps to get the line pushed into the bag. I tried snack bags for the Slab Rigs and they did not work so good cause there was always line trying to stick it's way out.

    Another thing I do is I have snaps on all my lines so I can switch from pulling crank baits to long lining and vice verse. Having pre-tied Slab Rigs make it real, real easy.

    Comments 77 Comments
    1. jackie53's Avatar
      jackie53 -
      Thanks Good idea like the bead between the blade and the line tie.
    1. hawgdog's Avatar
      hawgdog -
      Good Stuff....Thanks
    1. CUonthelake's Avatar
      CUonthelake -
      I'm gonna try this, thanks for the tip!
    1. RogerA's Avatar
      RogerA -
      Great idea, I will try that.
    1. Gabepeeps's Avatar
      Gabepeeps -
      I use a heavier jig in the front to help with separation. 1/16th in the front and 1/32nd in the back. The 1/16th will hang lower than the 1/32nd and I use a longer loop on the front jig, usually 4-5 inches.
    1. shipahoy41's Avatar
      shipahoy41 -
      Looks like that will work. It is similar to the one drill instructor showed me and then fished it with Russ Bailey. That rig sure did boat a lot of fish. Perhaps you should also post a photo of that on the stickie Knots and Rig Drawings on the main crappie page. Well done Ed.
    1. broz's Avatar
      broz -
      I will be trying that ,Thanks
    1. jigslinger2's Avatar
      jigslinger2 -
      I've used something similar. I tied teaser flies for the trailer. A drop of super glue may help on that plastic too. Thanks for the tip!
    1. elkhunter's Avatar
      elkhunter -
      Well thought out. Nice concept.
    1. Davedirt's Avatar
      Davedirt -
    1. Lazer Wolf's Avatar
      Lazer Wolf -
      A lot of good info to try out! Thx!
    1. cwbysfan03's Avatar
      cwbysfan03 -
      can you add a pic of the snap you use to attach to your main line?
    1. Billbob's Avatar
      Billbob -
      do i need to use a dull hook on the back ???
    1. double j's Avatar
      double j -
      Sweet rig, I'll have to give it a shot!
    1. forester1982's Avatar
      forester1982 -
      Great info
    1. fishon!!!'s Avatar
      fishon!!! -
      I'll be trying this for sure, Thanks
    1. shuorc's Avatar
      shuorc -
      Caught nineteen on it this morning, right??? Does this mean i can get rid of one of my 5 gallon buckets or do i need to add another?? Got all the stuff to do the job to try later this afternoon. Looks like a good deal and nineteen couldn't stand it.--shu
    1. Slab's Avatar
      Slab -
      Actually caught 21 Shu, only 7 over 11. I've found that you can push that grub right on over the eye (and knot) of the hook too. Makes for a nice clean setup. Heck, slap a drop of crazy glue on it and you can probably pull it all day long without having it slip down.

    1. Ranger Bob's Avatar
      Ranger Bob -
      I use a similar rig for blue gill & Perch when they are deep. I use a set up similar to yours for long lining Crappie, I use a 3 way & a short drop @ the front jig, usually around 18" apart for the the back jig. Mainly use soft baits on 1/16 to 1/8 jig heads. This works best when fish are in 10' -
      20'. Experiment with length of line out. I will cast out, then make sweeps with the 10" rod 180 degrees with the bail open.
      I use 6lb. mono, & the rig made with 4 lb. florocarbon. i use split shot on the main line if I need to get deeper.
      Normally my boat speed is 1/2 to 1 1/2 mph. My fish usually are on the rear jig.
    1. skeetbum's Avatar
      skeetbum -
      I like your rig Slab. I have also been tormented by the tangling of the second jig, this solves that. I like Ranger Bob's idea of the three way as the weightless curl is bound to twist. A good idea regardless, I'll try it when we start trolling here.
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