Thread: '87 Skeeter Strada F120 Rehabilitation

Originally Posted by skunked again

Thanks all!
Removing the "black stuff", I got into the gel (what was left of it). The hull needs repainted also.
I spent some time and de-wired the boat. Having the top cap off the boat really makes that alot easier !! In doing so, found more "paper mache" (rotted plywood) in more spots. Where it was used as backer/filler board, for light sockets, dash panels, etc. Oh well, I was planning on filling those holes anyway.
If it wasn't for having the extra garage, Im not sure how this would be going. Especially working with the resins, and the odor it gives off. We won't even talk about Sanding the fiberglass......

- Couple questions -

- I'm going to be cutting out the front and rear decks, that wood is shot also. Any suggestions for this? Oscillating tool with metal blade? Save the cutouts for templates?
- Anyone have a good source for a tachometer, and fuel gauge?
- Can a water pressure gauge be used with a '87 Mariner 115hp ? I've never had one, wanting to add one, if possible.

Put one on my 84 Merc 60. There was a brass plug in the cylinder head, just take that out then install the hose barb and run the hose up to the console.

I don't know about a 115, but mine only makes about 9 psi of water pressure wide open, and won't even move the needle at idle. Wish I would have gotten a 0-15 psi guage.

This is what I used since it matched my tach, comes with everything you need.

https://www.ebay.com/p/1422053680?ii...4aAsylEALw_wcB

I'm close too putting the top cap back on. After i replace the rotted wood under the bow, for the trolling motor support. Then the fun starts.
Some questions
- how many tubes of 3m 5200, for a 17' boat. At $25-$30 a tube, I don't want too many extra sitting around.
- do rub rails come pre-drilled? Or do I drill it. I don't want to secure the top cap, only to find out I put fasteners in the way.
- screws or rivets for top cap to hull ? I removed rivets, didn't know if screws are now recommended to use.


I truly appreciate everyone's help in this endeavor !!

Originally Posted by skunked again

I'm close too putting the top cap back on. After i replace the rotted wood under the bow, for the trolling motor support. Then the fun starts.
Some questions
- how many tubes of 3m 5200, for a 17' boat. At $25-$30 a tube, I don't want too many extra sitting around.
- do rub rails come pre-drilled? Or do I drill it. I don't want to secure the top cap, only to find out I put fasteners in the way.
- screws or rivets for top cap to hull ? I removed rivets, didn't know if screws are now recommended to use.


I truly appreciate everyone's help in this endeavor !!

Rivets are preferable to screws IMO. Milwaukee makes a sweet cordless gun, and harbor freight sells a pneumatic one. If below the waterline, make sure to use closed end rivets.

You can save a whole lot of money by getting 5200 on ebay. It's less than $15 a tube there. Local stores mark that stuff up like crazy.

One tube will go a long ways. The stuff is pretty runny and thin. If you're just using it to seal fasteners, it shouldn't take much at all.

I'll look on eBay. Thank you. Was thinking of using it for where the top cap meets the hull.

Take a guess on how many you think you will use and buy extra. Something else I found out was that 5200 will cure hard unopened on the shelf. It’s a chemical reaction that is aided by air, but will cure well underwater. Point here is, be careful about buying old stock. I checked around here and found it at my Ace hardware for $20 a tube. And it is much more runny than regular silicone.

For attaching the hulls, we used to us a small screw here and there until we got to it with rivets. Then shoot 5200 up in between, or shoot it before you rivet and after you drill. Keeps water from shooting up the hull and getting between the two surfaces and coming in the boat. If the surfaces are wiped down with acetone on a rag and clean it will bond soundly and reduce stress on any rivets.

Rub rail comes in many ways, most I’ve seen were predrilled. That doesn’t mean they have to be used if they land to close to a rivet. If you use an aluminum rail with an insert, buy a good rubber mallet to help form it and watch all the you tube you can find til you’re comfortable with it. A heat gun helps soften the insert if it’s cranky. Try to get the same rail that was on it. Some are different shape for different applications. Proper caps and corners make the job look professional and more durable, spend the extra money or polish the old ones.

Skeetbum - Thank you so much for that !

After some more procrastinating, I finally spent some time with the boat this week .
- Filled in all the old rivet holes (about 300 total) with reinforced epoxy for the hull/top cap, old rub rail.
- Glued rigid insulation to the outsides of the rear livewell and storage box. Why both? This way, either one can be used as a cooler.
- Replaced the wood under the bow, for the trolling motor.
- Set the top cap back on the hull. Then took down the homemade "crane".
- Cut the top skin, off of the front and rear decks, removed the old wood of each deck.

This project is starting to feel more manageable now, as soon as I set the top cap back down ! Now I'm really starting to plot and plan how I want the two new storage boxes, for the deck extension.
Also, I'm thinking a "hatch" , where the splashwell was. From the transom, to the existing rear hatch, is about two feet .

Wood for the decking? I had some 3/4" cdx, from a previous project. Wow is that stuff warped! Was going to coat it with resin first. Stuff looks like a recurve bow ! !
What do you all recommend?
- BC grade? I read somewhere on here, about coating it with polyester resin (mixed to kick off slow?), cut with acetone (50/50?)
- Advantech or similar?
- Something else?
Marine grade would probably be ideal, at $80-90 a sheet, that hurts. Need 3 sheets.