Thanks: 
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Reply With QuotePull existing wires out run new wires all the way,#6 is cheap compared to a bad splice!
Crappie.com 1K Star General
If you don't have one, and it's in a convenient place, it might be a good place for a circuit breaker. Any parts house that makes up battery cables should have large gauge heat shrink too.
Trophy King II
Pull existing wires out run new wires all the way,#6 is cheap compared to a bad splice!
Slabmaster II
Been looking at you post from 3/18. That's exactly what I had in mind. Couple of questions, is your base tray attached to compartment floor or walls? Is everything staying put? What group size batteries you using? How's it working for ya? Thanks
Trophy King II
jp2,
The battery tray is bolted to the wall with 3"x3" angled aluminum; it is secure there hasn't been any shifting or tipping. I run 31 series for the 24 volt trolling motor on 4 gauge (new) wire. The splice you saw in the above post was on my 12ft jon boat. It is 4 gauge and only extended 2.5 ft; that wire was left over from my big boat build.
2002 Bass Tracker PT185 90hp Mercury ELPTO
Everything Millennium
B'n'M PST's
1236 Jon Boat 5hp Mercury
Slabmaster II
He guys, want to thank y'all so much for the help. Going to start gathering materials tomorrow. It dawned on me that I will only need to splice negative wire. Can come out of breaker on positive wire and will not need a splice. Will be about 5' between breaker and battery. Reason for all this is to get a larger cranking/electronics battery in battery compartment.
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