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Thread: 16' crappie boat rigging suggestions?

  1. #21
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    Thanks for the replies, guys.

    I tried rotating with a photo editor, but to no avail.

    I just came in from carpeting the middle floor section, and the rear casting deck. I'm very happy with how it turned out, but now the back section seems unfinished, so I'm probably going to end up flooring that, too. Will only take about 1/2 sheet of 1/2" plywood, which doesn't add much weight. Staying light is of primary concern to me, with the little 35 on the back.

    I'll post pictures soon. Thanks.

  2. #22
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    A little more progress today...

    I finally got to test out my new prop today.

    The 11 pitch ran 22-23 mph... RPMs sounded too high.
    The 15 pitch ran 24-25 mph... RPMs sounded too low.
    The 13 pitch ran 27-28 mph, and RPMs sound PERFECT.

    This is a factory OMC prop that I found as new old stock. I was mainly trying to get the RPMs right, the extra speed is a bonus. I haven't even tried tweaking the engine trim for max speed yet.

    Amazing what the right prop can do for a boat. Slowly but surely, this is turning into a sweet ride.

    -Tony
    Likes SeaRay LIKED above post

  3. #23
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    looks great
    How do you attach everything to the hull?
    Screwing into the hull?

    Thanks


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    G3PO

  4. #24
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    Depends on what you are referring to...

    For the most part, I used solid rivets to attach angle aluminum to the hull, and then screwed the plywood to the angle.

    In some places, I used stainless bolts/washers/lock nuts.

    Around the perimeter of the plywood, I used polyurethane adhesive to create a solid bond with the hull.

    The end result has been a rock-solid hull. Very little flexing or banging when I go through rough water at high speed. Just "thump-thump" and I'm through it.

    -TH

  5. #25
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    Here are sone more recent pictures...
    Here are th he new LED nav lights. They work well, are bright, and don't get in the way.
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  6. #26
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    Here is the center floor section. Makes the boat much more user friendly. That front area was deep, slanted, and slippery when wet. Now, it's easy to go from the back to the bow of the boat.

    Name:  20160914_123424.jpg
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  7. #27
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    Also, I have added a bilge pump and some switches to the helm. Instead of putting my all-around light base in the back corner of the boat, I mounted it to the console. Using a long pole, it's both out of the way, and it lights the inside of the boat gently.

  8. #28
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    Also, I have added a bilge pump and some switches to the helm. Instead of putting my all-around light base in the back corner of the boat, I mounted it to the console. Using a long pole, it's both out of the way, and it lights the inside of the boat gently.
    Likes SeaRay LIKED above post

  9. #29
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    nice job on this thill . Have enjoyed your pics. I did alot of the same stuff to my 1972 16' semi V aluminum Richline about 20 years ago. I am still using it...as a crappie machine. Mine now has a 15hp Merc 4 stroke tiller rather than a steering wheel/console setup. Solid rigs for sure. I've done alot of upgrades over the years. My favorites include my driftmaster rod holders and front mounted trolling motor transducer.

  10. #30
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    Here is a question...

    How do you mount a transducer to a Powerdrive / Terrova trolling motor in a way that the cable to it doesn't get ripped apart?

    I've gone through two cables, so far...

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