Thanks Thanks:  0
HaHa HaHa:  0
Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 44

Thread: My Lowe ST195 DC rigging

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    illinois
    Posts
    9,952
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default


    Looks good an nice job on the seat.



    MEMBER CRAPPIE MAFIA

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Arkansas
    Posts
    40
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    This is sure a good looking boat and seems to offer up a few fun projects at times!

  3. #23
    RCC is offline Crappie.com Legend and Arkansas Moderator
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    NEAR
    Posts
    7,141
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Nice boat. Enjoying the read.
    RCC's Crappie Eradication Service
    Eliminating your slab problems one fish at a time
    For free estimates give us a call at O U 812.

  4. #24
    "G"'s Avatar
    "G" is offline Super Duper Moderator - 2012 Crappie.Com Man of the year & 2018 Crappie.com Decade of Exceptional Service Awards * Crappie.com Supporter * Member Sponsor
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Belden, MS
    Posts
    95,225
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Great looking boat
    I have spent most my life fishing........the rest I wasted.
    PROUD MEMBER OF TEAM GEEZER
    PICO Lures Field Rep
    Likes TurboDan LIKED above post

  5. #25
    skeetbum's Avatar
    skeetbum is offline Crappie.com Legend - Moderator Jig Tying Forum * Crappie.com Supporter
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    22,967
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Good looking boat and a good read. I spotted some things that you would want to change, and as it progressed you did. You're using the right parts and I don't think you'll be doing this again anytime soon. My boat is an '88 and one of my seats broke in a similar fashion, and I did the same repair as my seats are no longer available and still original. Speaks for garage kept. I used some of the white commercial cutting board material and it came out great, can't which of the 3 was broke. The rod holders is a tough one to get right. If I have my 4 rod holders on I have to rotate it to deploy or stow the TM but love the Hi-teks. With the 2 rod holders I just have to be careful of the angle of the crossbar and stow is a snap. Your boat looks better without the stickers and wont show age nearly as fast. You do good work. My question is; what you gonna work on when it's done? Rigging and figuring is part of the fun.......Skeet.
    Creativity is just intelligence fooling around
    Likes TurboDan LIKED above post

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    IL/AR
    Posts
    1,588
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Fishfried, if you look at the front of my boat the nightmare i have up there, i just keep rod holder loose on the top bolt on the left side until i get the trolling motor and the da'ducer in the water then i arrange the rod holder where i need to be, only takes a couple secs to get it set, your boat is really coming along
    ​Proud Member Team Geezer
    "As no man is born an artist, so no man is born an Angler"
    Izaak Walton
    Likes TurboDan LIKED above post

  7. #27
    CrappiePappy's Avatar
    CrappiePappy is online now Super Moderator - 2013 Man Of The Year * Crappie.com Supporter
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Lexington, KY
    Posts
    23,563
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Thanks for the idea of putting pool noodle over windshield.

    I have a similar style boat cover (vented for traveling with cover on) and the pool noodle works great to keep the windshield edge from wearing on the cover. I don't trailer my boat with cover on, but it sure helps having the noodle while the boat sits covered.

    ... cp

  8. #28
    CrappiePappy's Avatar
    CrappiePappy is online now Super Moderator - 2013 Man Of The Year * Crappie.com Supporter
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Lexington, KY
    Posts
    23,563
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Also ... I have Hi-Tek rod holders on my boat, as well. The left front holder is in the way of the TM deployment/retraction. And like you, I didn't want to have to drill more holes or move the angle of the TM. I also didn't want to have to constantly be looking for a wrench/socket to change the angle of the T-bar or the individual holders ... so I took the advice of several other Hi-Tek owners and ordered some knobs from McMaster-Carr, to replace the bolts to the T-bar & holders. Now I can change the direction of the T-bar and/or each individual holder with a twist of the wrist. I still use a wrench/socket to secure the T-bar to the mounting plate, but make the other adjustments with the knobs.

    Even if you didn't replace ALL the bolts on your Hi-Teks ... the bolt holding the T-bar to the upright could be replaced with one of these knobs, and then you could simply loosen the T-bar and turn it out of the way of your TM.

    According to your picture of the left Hi-Tek mount & TM mount .... you "might" be able to push the T-bar to the far left of the floor mount bracket & gain a little "wiggle room". Then with turning the top bar around to where the U joints are pointing inside the boat, you could deploy/retract your TM without having to move the whole TM angle or the Hi-Tek. The replacement of the top center bolt with a knob would make that a little quicker.

    If none of these suggestions are going to work, with the Hi-Teks & TM placements where they currently are .... rather than move the TM angle, you "could" order another floor mount (or use the left floor mount) and place it closer to the center of the floor, so that the TM can be deployed/retracted without changing the angle. Drilling in the carpeted floor, for replacing the location of the Hi-Tek mount, would be better (aesthetically) than drilling in the top of the bow.

    Here's the link to the knobs : McMaster-Carr

    I don't have a picture of my own Hi-Teks with these knobs, but here's one I "borrowed" from HandiCrappie. Should give you an idea of how these knobs fit/look :



    And as you can see, Handi is trolling cranks ... so the knobs can & will tighten down and hold, even under the force of this type of trolling. Just be sure to use the lock washers (that come with the bolts in the Hi-Tek holders) with your knobs.

    ... cp
    Likes TurboDan LIKED above post

  9. #29
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Central IL
    Posts
    1,783
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    I have a 175 stinger. How is the ram mount on the side of the dash holding up ? Did you use anything under the dash to help support it ? I'm wanting to add a 999 to my rig but worried about dash cracking

  10. #30
    skeetbum's Avatar
    skeetbum is offline Crappie.com Legend - Moderator Jig Tying Forum * Crappie.com Supporter
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    22,967
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Gobob, if you have concerns about strength and want to add some strength, scrounge up a piece of 1/4" aluminum or 1/2" plexiglas. Cut it to fit under where it will go and butter it up with some good silicone, both surfaces already clean. Predrilling will help also. I've done several over the past metal boats I've had and by making the backing larger than needed I've had no issues. The silicone stops any vibration and you'll never have to replace it if you change your mind.
    Creativity is just intelligence fooling around

Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

BACK TO TOP