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Thread: What to do after snagged on a tree limb

  1. #11
    CrappiePappy's Avatar
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    I'm with Atimm on this one. I've used weedless jigheads for well over 30yrs (casting).

    One of the biggest mistakes made, that causes a lot of snags on wood cover, is trying to jerk the jig over or off the cover (even when using a weedless jighead). What usually happens is you just dig the hook deeper into the wood, and if your line isn't strong enough to bend the hook open ... then it will likely break.
    What I do is constantly watch my line as it comes back towards me, which tells me two things --- I got bit (line jumps or moves oddly) or the line is no longer inching its way towards me (line is running over some obstacle). When I see the second thing happening, I start to pay even more attention to the "feel" thru the rod tip. When my reeling in starts to cause the rod tip to start to bend forward, I stop reeling, as I know that my jig has come to the object that the line is running over. I simply drop the rod tip about 6" and watch for the line to straighten out, indicating that the jig has dropped down .... then I lift (not jerk) the rod tip about 12" and hold it there for a couple of seconds before dropping it back down to its normal position and begin reeling again. That is unless I get a hit after bumping the jig over the object ... which does happen on occasion.

    The deal is ... the jighead is weighted so that the hook is pointing upwards on the retrieve. When an object is encountered with the line, and the jig reaches that object, the weight of the hook causes the jig to fall over and that makes it more likely for the hook point to come into contact with the object. What I do is simply let the jig fall back away from the object and then the lifting of the rod tip twice that distance will cause the jig to "bounce" over the object (with the hook pointing up) and then start to pendulum swing back towards me. And like I said ... I tend to kinda "go on point" when that happens, because I've had many instances where I got a hit once the jig cleared the object and began falling/swinging back towards me. (musta got their attention or hacked them off )

    And NO, it doesn't ALWAYS work ... so, when it don't and I can't get the rod tip on the other side of the snag & pop it off, I just usually break the line or straighten the hook pulling on it.

    I use the Improved Clinch Knot, rather than a loop knot, for the simple reason that I don't want that "loop" to be the first thing to hang on the wood cover ... and when I'm casting a jig, 99% of the time it's towards some form of wood cover.
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  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by parfume4 View Post
    I found that it is very hard to get jig back once it is snagged on tree limbs when I fish creek with sunken trees.

    My fishing buddy use 30lb braid with 20 lb mono and single or double 1/8 jig. He just pull to straighten the jig once snagged.
    Bend it back and continue fishing.

    I assume that this style of fishing works with vertical jigging.
    But if I cast the jig, I am afraid that thicker line and heavier jig will affect presentation.

    What is your suggestion for fishing creek around limbs?
    Vertical fishing (kayak fishing) vs. cast & retrieve (bank fishing)
    Thanks.




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  3. #13
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    I hate to break off a jig, BUT- sometimes it is the best way to go. If fish are on your fishing spot, break off and mark the spot, come back later! What ever you do not, just sit there and try to shake or whatever the limb or log. When you return, the crappie will be there!!
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  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrappiePappy View Post
    I'm with Atimm on this one. I've used weedless jigheads for well over 30yrs (casting).

    One of the biggest mistakes made, that causes a lot of snags on wood cover, is trying to jerk the jig over or off the cover (even when using a weedless jighead). What usually happens is you just dig the hook deeper into the wood, and if your line isn't strong enough to bend the hook open ... then it will likely break.
    What I do is constantly watch my line as it comes back towards me, which tells me two things --- I got bit (line jumps or moves oddly) or the line is no longer inching its way towards me (line is running over some obstacle). When I see the second thing happening, I start to pay even more attention to the "feel" thru the rod tip. When my reeling in starts to cause the rod tip to start to bend forward, I stop reeling, as I know that my jig has come to the object that the line is running over. I simply drop the rod tip about 6" and watch for the line to straighten out, indicating that the jig has dropped down .... then I lift (not jerk) the rod tip about 12" and hold it there for a couple of seconds before dropping it back down to its normal position and begin reeling again. That is unless I get a hit after bumping the jig over the object ... which does happen on occasion.

    The deal is ... the jighead is weighted so that the hook is pointing upwards on the retrieve. When an object is encountered with the line, and the jig reaches that object, the weight of the hook causes the jig to fall over and that makes it more likely for the hook point to come into contact with the object. What I do is simply let the jig fall back away from the object and then the lifting of the rod tip twice that distance will cause the jig to "bounce" over the object (with the hook pointing up) and then start to pendulum swing back towards me. And like I said ... I tend to kinda "go on point" when that happens, because I've had many instances where I got a hit once the jig cleared the object and began falling/swinging back towards me. (musta got their attention or hacked them off )

    And NO, it doesn't ALWAYS work ... so, when it don't and I can't get the rod tip on the other side of the snag & pop it off, I just usually break the line or straighten the hook pulling on it.

    I use the Improved Clinch Knot, rather than a loop knot, for the simple reason that I don't want that "loop" to be the first thing to hang on the wood cover ... and when I'm casting a jig, 99% of the time it's towards some form of wood cover.
    Well explained! Good to have the mental picture for snag and the way to try to overcome it. Have to try some time to really learn this trick.



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    Quote Originally Posted by trypman1 View Post
    I hate to break off a jig, BUT- sometimes it is the best way to go. If fish are on your fishing spot, break off and mark the spot, come back later! What ever you do not, just sit there and try to shake or whatever the limb or log. When you return, the crappie will be there!!
    Agreed


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    Good explanation CrappiePappy! Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by FurFlyin View Post
    Here's what I do: I use 4# mono and take 100's of jigs.
    He is telling the truth. He got enough lead to pour up 34,000

  8. #18
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    Just plan on loosing some jigs and have a good time
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  9. #19
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    Use light wire hooks or weedless
    Moderator of Beginners n Mentoring forum
    Takeum Jigs

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  10. #20
    skeetbum's Avatar
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    All good info, and to each his own. I use light jigs and loop knots and since I started using the loop I hang less. When I do, I go back to it and past it on slack line and it usually comes out. I use 2lb line and 4lb leader so I don’t like breaking off and retyping the whole rig. The snap the line thing hasn’t worked for me yet, but the light line probably changes that.
    Creativity is just intelligence fooling around

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