Checking for source of electrolysis - good info read whole thread

[NCkenner]

During my checks , I decided to check out my corroded (slightly) anodes. The boat has a pair of R3 zinc anodes on the transom. Zinc is designed for salt water use only. Aluminum is for brackish water and magnesium is for fresh water. I am afraid since my zinc anodes had a film of oxidation over them, they weren’t providing the protection they did when the boat was new.
I’m going to keep checking for issues.

Blake from Skinny Water Marine got with me and told me how to check for voltage leak. I’m going to check that. I’m afraid a slight issue over two years time could have caused this and without pulling every piece of electrical equipment out along with inspecting every inch of wire, it may be a phantom I have to deal with.


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Can you share the process Blake shared with you? One of these days, it may be one of us that needs to check ours...

[M R Dux]

He said touch meter ground to the battery - post then positive to the boat. This will show if there is a circuit trying to make up. It could be a frayed wire touching aluminum somewhere or bad ground.

I use an analog tester with a needle. If it moves + or - it just shows stray electricity in the hull.

After I get my electronics battery and crank battery back in and hooked up, I’ll check each battery and should be able to at least isolate which circuit is involved.


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[M R Dux]

OK!! I have solved my problem. I am the cause of the problem.

I talked to Rickie this AM and he convinced me to test my new 36volt 100amp Skinny Water Marine battery circuit before I totally tore my boat apart. I did as Blake from Skinny Water had told me, I turned my trolling motor circuit Perko on with the trolling motor powered up. I put the negative lead from my VOM (volt/ohm meter) onto the negative post and the positive lead to a well grounded spot on my hull. With the VOM on 50 volts DC setting, the needle instantly went to 36 volts. OH CRAP!!!!

My boat was custom wired with 6 gauge marine wire. I had installed a 220Volt heavy duty twist lock receptacle and plug for my TM. A friend had talked me into this about 5 boats ago and I had NEVER had an issue until now. The plug had internally shorted out to ground and into the hull. As soon as I removed the plug from the hull, the voltage went to zero. I am now installing a Marinco 70 amp 36 volt plug and receptacle.

I feel sure this has been a short time thing. The Ultrex has lately done some unexplained things, like shutting off when I knew I have plenty of battery left. A new plug and receptacle along with an upgrade program on my Ultrex I Link and remote should solve my issues.

Thanks everybody for your help and encouragement. This had me scared big time. Hope my stupid mistake helps somebody else avoid it.

BTW, I used the term electrolysis in my title. This was NOT electrolysis as I now know after reading PAGES from any source I could find to solve this. This was stray voltage corrosion. Big difference.

[BuckeyeCrappie]

That’s great news Doug. Glad you figured it out AND shared with us. Fishermen helping other Fishermen. C.com is awesome!

[Slab]

Awesome job figuring it out, and sharing your experience. Thanks Dougy, glad you got it figured out. One thing though, I'm surprised Ricky didn't move into your house (or even boat!) once he heard about the problem until it was all figured out!

[DockShootinJack]

Glad you got it figured out