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Thread: SS props

  1. #1
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    Default SS props


    Why does everyone lean towards a stainless prop over the aluminum that usually comes witht he motor? Have just been wondering this and I am guessing it has its advantages? Let me know...thanks in advance

  2. #2
    M R Dux's Avatar
    M R Dux is offline Crappie.com Legend , 2018 Crappie.com Man of the Year * Crappie.com Supporter * Member Sponsor
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    Try digging a rocky bottom or stump by accident and you will see why I run a SS prop. I had to unload and load my boat on an unimproved ramp on KY Lake today due to the lake being 4 feet over summer pool. I ended up in the gravel both times that would have slung the blades off an aluminum prop. I'll have to dress the edges of mine with a file but it didn't hurt it. I don't like getting my SS prop into the bottom but at least it will live for the next trip.
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  3. #3
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    the ss prop is less apt to flex under WOT and are considered a hi perf prop. you can have a ss prop tweeked to make it proform even better than out of the box. a ee prop has soooooooooooo mant diff sonfig for set up and opens a whole new ball game as far as motor hieght set back and alot of other factors but will make your boat faster and give it a better hole shot. ssprops usually start about 400 and go up from there. the down side is that you dont want to hit any thing with it because it will not give and could take out the lower unit
    Stinkies Daddy

  4. #4
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    on the high performance bass boats running on a jack plate..

    they get high performance props. with rake angle and the blades cupped which helps with turning at high speeds and can run with less prop in the water when up on the pad.

    they are stronger. but they do have a rubber hub pressed in that should spin out before it tears up your lower unit.

  5. #5
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    It's all about grounding (and performance if you have a big bass rig). I have a 'toon and my aluminum is just fine for it...as long as I keep it from contacting the bottom.

    aj

  6. #6
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    I got mine for endurance. I often fish a river with a lot of floating debris that could bend an aluminum prop.
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  7. #7
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    I like an aluminum. I want it to give, not my lower unit. I carry a spare in the boat.

  8. #8
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    Aluminum - cheaper to buy, reasonable performance, slower, flexes at speed

    SS - More expensive, more durable, less flex, best speed


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  9. #9
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    Stainless steel all the way. I have run a 25 HP motor for years on my duck hunting/crappie fishing boat, and boy, did I ever break a lot of blades off aluminum props. I have never damaged a stainless prop nor my lower unit, and I hit them on all kinds of logs and beaver dams (which we jump), limbs, gumbo mud in shallow water, underwater snags, and even some gravel, and I have broken a number of aluminum props on the same type stuff. It is not uncommon to stop your boat where a big limb gets in the prop and kills it as soon as you put it in gear, and that's never broken or damaged my stainless prop or lower unit.

    I have had friends who tore up lower units, but it was because they hit something really hard with a lot of speed. Have never had a friend who tore up his lower unit because his stainless prop didn't flex. I sure aren't saying it's impossible, but my experience is that it's unlikely.

  10. #10
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    If you hit something hard enough to damage your lower unit it isn't going to matter what prop you have on there. The hub will give long before any other damage is done. That is why they are designed that way.
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    Bill H. PTC USN Ret
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