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How to Keep Live Bait
The following brief instructions describe the basic methods of storage for live bait. These instructions apply only to storage and are not prescribed for the "raising" of these baits.
Minnows
Minnows and other baitfish probably require the most attention for proper storage with minimal loss. The three main factors which contribute to baitfish loss are lack of oxygen, improper water temperature, and lack of cleanliness. Let's address each of these separately: (1) In most cases, standing water will not provide enough oxygen for more than just a few fish. Additional oxygen must be introduced into the water by using a good-quality, extra capacity air pump such as our WHITEWATER AERATION SYSTEM. Or for increased capacity, an agitator (such as our MINO-SAVER units), which is suspended in the tank with 1/2 of the paddle submerged. (2) Although baitfish will survive in warmer water, losses will increase dramatically as temperatures exceed 60 degrees. Warmer water holds less dissolved oxygen, encourages more bacterial growth, and "softens" fish making them more susceptible to injury. Cooler temperatures (55 degrees or less) can be maintained by: refrigeration (the best overall method), by fresh water circulation through your tank (if you have well or spring water that is cold), or by adding ice or frozen water containers to your tank (the least desirable due to chemicals present in ice and/or constant temperature fluctuation). Any method of cooling, however, is better than no cooling at all. (3) Proper cleanliness involves keeping contaminants such as oil, gasoline, pesticides, etc. away from tank; keeping waste byproducts such as ammonia and other harmful chemicals at acceptable levels by charcoal filtering, fresh-water circulation, the use of ammonia-reducing products such as NO-MMONIA II, or frequent water-changes (the least desirable). In the following paragraphs, we will briefly outline the most common methods available in order of preference.
A. Far and away, the best system incorporates an insulated tank with dividers, usually fiberglass, with cooling unit and charcoal filter. (We recommend the LIVING STREAM unit, manufactured by Frigid Units Inc. - see our catalog for details. It aerates, filters, and circulates the water within the tank and requires very little maintenance. This system holds losses to the lowest possible level. They do represent a sizable investment, however (starting at about $4,100), and if your budget and/or your sales volume will not justify its cost, it is possible to improvise by using an insulated tank, with a refrigeration unit and possibly a filter adapted for this application.
B. An alternative system for those fortunate enough to have a source of cold well or spring water is to provide a constant flow of water into and overflowing out of your tank (insulation again will help keep the temperature down). You will need supplemental aeration, and the constant flow of water will dilute any water treatment products you may be using, rendering them somewhat less effective, but still useful.
C. The least desirable method, in our opinion, requires the smallest initial investment, but requires much more attention and provides the poorest results. It involves filling your tank (again, insulated if possible) with fresh water (use BETTER BAIT or FINER-SHINER to neutralize harmful chemicals if you use city water), then chill and maintain, if possible, 55 degrees or less by adding ice or frozen water containers. This will be difficult . . . and the variation in temperatures will result in higher losses and make it necessary to change the water and clean the tank every few days or less. You will have to provide supplemental aeration with an air pump or agitator.
Regardless of which system you use, let us suggest the following:
Paint the inside of your tank (except fiberglass units) with POOL AND TANK PAINT. This rubberized base paint helps to seal the surface for easier cleaning and less disease.
Products such as BETTER BAIT, FINER SHINER, BAIT VITTLES, BAIT VITTLES BLOCK, FOAM-OFF, BAIT BUDDIES, and NO-MMONIA II are effective in minimizing loss and providing healthier baitfish for your customers. We encourage their use.
Clean your tanks regularly. Tanks with refrigeration and filters will require cleaning less often; but remember to clean the filtering charcoal regularly.
Don't guess about water temperature . . . use an accurate thermometer in your tank to constantly monitor its temperature.
If at all possible, rotate your stock. Try to provide enough compartments in your tank that will not require you to mix new incoming bait with older stock on hand.
Water Capacity Formulas
A. To determine the water capacity of your square or rectangular bait tank, multiply length times width times height (all in feet) times the constant 7.5. The result will be in gallons.
B. To determine the water capacity of your round bait tank, multiply the depth of the water in feet times the radius squared (radius is 1/2 the width across the top of the container) times 3.14, then multiply this number by 7.5. The result will be in gallons.