Question about putting in depth finder

[reg5300]

Would someone please tell me what I need to install my depth finder- I think I need a bracket, swivel adapter, and knobs. I do want to be able to turn the finder, so therefore the swivel adapter. How do I make the unit so I can detach it at nights should I need to? If you have the time, would you please tell me names of products I can use(gimbal,etc.) I cant decide wether or not to put the transducer on the trolling motor, or the boat. I am working with an Eagle FishMark 480 Fishfinder. Thanks for the help. I understand I need the transducer and all the wireing.

[SkyChimp]

Regarding the transducer:

I don't know what kind of boat you have. So my suggestion may not apply to you.

A friend of mine has a metal jon boat and has his transducer mounted to a piece of PVC pipe.

He has a length of pipe fitted to a clamp. He attaches the clamp to the transom. The PVC pipe hangs stright down from the clamp into the water. The transducer is at the bottom (obviously). The wire runs down the inside of the pipe.

With his set up, the transducer can be removed, raised, lowered, swiveled, whatever. He can also hang it over the side or front of his boat. It seems to be a very versatile set-up. He gets super readings. I plan doing something similar with my boat.

Here is a commerical product similar to what he has done:

[CrappiePappy]

you lookin for one of these ?? ......... http://wwww.basspro.com/product-1/401.htm

They come in different sizes, so check the dimensions on your depth finder's mounting plate. Make sure you have enough power/transducer cord free - so you can turn the unit around on the swivel base, and not bind the cord. (the Johnny Ray swivel base units will turn 360deg). The button looking gizmo, coming out of the front of the JR's, is the release button - once you have the depth finder bolted onto the JR ... when you want to remove the unit, all you do is pull the pwr/trdsr cord from the unit and push the button. The depth finder/swivel plate will come loose from the base. When ready to put it back on - it pops right back into the base. (it's reportedly better to not leave the depth finder mounted, when trailoring the boat to/from)

If you need "extras" ... look here ........ http://www.lei-extras.com/store/sear...FishMark%20480
The Gimbal Bracket and knobs should come with the unit .... and once put together and mounted on the Johnny Ray Swivel Mount, you won't need to remove the unit from them. If you only have a unit, and no gimbal/knobs, then they are right there on the page.
You can purchase a "puck" (they call them "pod") transducer ... or you can purchase a mounting kit, to put the "skimmer" type transducer on your trolling motor. Something like this ........ http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/te...requestid=8842

......... luck2ya .........cp

[Eager Beaver]

Would someone please tell me what I need to install my depth finder- I think I need a bracket, swivel adapter, and knobs. I do want to be able to turn the finder, so therefore the swivel adapter. How do I make the unit so I can detach it at nights should I need to? If you have the time, would you please tell me names of products I can use(gimbal,etc.) I cant decide wether or not to put the transducer on the trolling motor, or the boat. I am working with an Eagle FishMark 480 Fishfinder. Thanks for the help. I understand I need the transducer and all the wireing.

To begin with I have 2 Hummingbird depth finders on my boat. They swivel and can be removed with a push of a button. You don't have that make so will have to use an adapter. My comment is on where to place your transducer. If you are placing your unit on the dash of your boat, then you will want to place your transducer on the back of the boat, so as when you are moving on the lake you can read the bottom depth at all times. If you place the transducer on the trolling motor, then you lose the use of it while you are running out on the lake, when your trolling motor is up. The trolling motor would have to be in the water for it to work. You can fish with it on the back of the boat with the screen turned around, but anything that you see is already behind you if you are fishing from the front of the boat. This is why a lot of us use 2 depth finder on our boats. one on the console with the transducer on the back of the boat and another unit on the front of the boat with the transducer on the trolling motor. That way when you see something coming on your screen you know that it is right undernieth you. My exception to this is when I am trolling a shoreline and I will adjust my transducer to be looking forward a little bit so I know I am coming on some cover before I get there. This will come with experience of using your unit. Good luck with mounting your Depth Finder.

[slabbandit]

I have an Eagle Ultra Classic unit on my Basstracker PF-16 stick steering rig. I love my stick steering because I only need one depthfinder instead of two units. One thing I would not be without is my switch box by Eagle.

The switch box is a small rotary dial that has both transducers connected to the back of the switch box. It has one lead that hooks up to the depthfinder where the transducer normally connects.

I use my back transducer going across the lake then when I drop my trolling motor I simply switch to the front transducer by turning the switch from the no. 2 position to the no.1 position.

They normally sell for up to 50 bucks but I think I paid less than $30 brand new off E-Bay.


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[Eager Beaver]

I have an Eagle Ultra Classic unit on my Basstracker PF-16 stick steering rig. I love my stick steering because I only need one depthfinder instead of two units. One thing I would not be without is my switch box by Eagle.

The switch box is a small rotary dial that has both transducers connected to the back of the switch box. It has one lead that hooks up to the depthfinder where the transducer normally connects.

I use my back transducer going across the lake then when I drop my trolling motor I simply switch to the front transducer by turning the switch from the no. 2 position to the no.1 position.

They normally sell for up to 50 bucks but I think I paid less than $30 brand new off E-Bay.


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I am a little confused as to your set up. Are you using a tiller motor and operating the big motor from the back of your boat. Where do you sit when running the trolling motor- in the back of the boat, or in the front of the boat? when trolling I would want to be over top the transducer. that way you know when you are over the structure. If you are sitting in the back of the boat with the transducer on the trolling motor then when you see structure on the screen you aren't over it until you go another 16 ft forward. If you are sitting in the front with the screen at the back of the boat then you have to constantly be turning around to watch the screen to stay on the structure, or to watch your screen. If I am going to anchor over a ledge then I will turn the Unit on the dash around so I can view it from the front and can see when the front unit is up on the ledge and the back of the boat is out over the ledge or drop off. I do this a lot when I am Walleye fishing and this is precise anchoring. This works great for me.

[ribit]

No console or steering wheel just a stick to steer mounted on side about mid ship. lol

[slabbandit]

Ribet is exactly right. I sit in the center of my boat towards the front and steer the big motor by a stick connected by a steering cable running to the back of the boat. I don't have to leave this seat to motor across the lake or to use the trolling motor. Straight up is going straight and pushing the stick forward is right and pulling the stick rearward past straight up is left.

A stick steering rig is great for small to medium sized lakes. The lake I normally fish is 3500 acres.



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