Pullin outboard

[Crappie Reaper]

I'm taken the 90hp Yamaha off the Charger bass boat. I plan to stick the 60hp Mariner on the Charger, then stick it out front with a for sale sign on it.
I disconnected the throttle and gear cable from the remote this afternoon. I unplugged the wiring inside the remote as well. It's all color coded. This Charger has 5 instruments and 5 switches on the dash with a plethora of wires all connected to the main harness going back to the motor in one fashion or another. I will not need all the gauges and am wondering if I've opened up a hornets nest. I am thinking about taking a set of dykes to the main harness and all other wires just to be able to remove them.

Question is, would I be making a major mistake doing so? I can alway feed a new set of wires to the switch bank. The remote for the Mariner houses the choke switch. The Mariner has no trim, so basic controls is what I am going to try to acheive without all the gauges.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

[Scrapper]

no, you have not opened a hornets nest. I would do a rewire and make sure you solder and seal all your connections with shrink wrap. Just take you time...make GOOD notes and diagrams and you will not have any trouble. The hardest thing for most people that I've seen, is where the tach wires go. Other than that its pretty straight foward. I've done a few rewires. You'll be glad you did when your done and its a great time to add a few options if you wish. Let us know if you have any questions and post pics of it if you can.

[Crappie Reaper]

I am pulling the motor off and don't plan on putting it back on the boat. I am going to mount the 60hp Mariner in it's place and stick a for sale sign on it. The bulk of the wire harness coming from the motor of the 90hp seems to run to the console, then back to the area of the remote. When I took the remote off, I took the back off, snapped a couple of pics, and disconnected the wires inside. That bundle, goes to the console. I'm leaning towards parting out the 90hp, which means, I may not need to worry about the wiring harness being cut. My first choice would be able to salvage the harness without cutting a thing and see if I couldn't figure out what's caused the thing to seize up. Like I said in a previous post, if the 90hp can be revamped for a reasonable price. If the motor can be salvaged, I could start looking for a boat to stick it on. I have my eye on an aluminum boat that looks to be about 18' long, and about 6' wide. It's been sitting at a shop with no activity on it in over 2 years. It would make a perfect boat for the 90hp, and an excellent new boat project.

[Crappie Reaper]

Oh, all the instruments, switches and what not are coming off the boat as well.

[Scrapper]

If you haven't done it yet...I would get the harness out. if you can help it DO NOT cut the harness...MUCH more valuble with it intact. I would part out and not mess with fixing it. An engine like that, you could get close to 1000 in parts. Sell the lower unit...t/t unit and swivel...electronics...heads if okay...carb set...cowling...prop...I think you could get it all on ebay and do well with it. PM me if you need any help with ebay and what you normally see being parted out....I've done alot of boat stuff one there...lol. Main thing on the lower is make sure oil is clean and it shifts...if that checks out...and skeg looks good you can get 5-600 for it alone. Just some thoughts.