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Thread: line weight

  1. #1
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    Default line weight


    I have a 3/4wt rod, 7'. I have 4wt line on it and I like it alot. I was wondering if I put 3wt on another spool, would it not cast as far? I would like to use it for bluegills and trout.
    Mary

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    Default Line weights and line types

    Greater line weight does help for stronger wind but does not mean that it will cast farther than a lower line weight. It is easier to cast a 5wt. in stronger wind than a 3wt. for instance but both should be able to cast equal distance with little or no wind force. If your rod is rated for a 3/4wt. then it should cast either of those lines equally well. Some folks like the greater line weight of the two line rating so that the rod loads faster. By the same token but against the manufacturer's rod rating, some folks like to use one line weight higher than what the rating is for the rod so that the rod will load the line even faster for a faster cast but it also can overstress the rod and to me is not a good idea. It is best to use the manufacturer's line ratings on the rod rather than risk damage to the rod. Lines come in types. For instance, a WF type is a weight forward and helps with casting larger flies and may respond better in stronger wind since the weight of the line is forward in the tip section. A DT type or double taper helps with casting lighter flies like dry flies and is used for quieter presentations for spooky fish but would be a poor choice in strong wind since the weight of the line is in the midsection (tapered at the both ends). A L type or level line has its weight equally distributed throughout the line or leveled and is supposed to be an all purpose line but in reality has deficiencies for both of the above line types, being neither able to handle large flies or able to present lighter flies quietly. But the level line can be used where neither of those deficiencies are important (medium to small flies for less spooky fish). At least this is my take and experience on standard line types and they all have their place and purpose. There are also specialized types beyond the standard types, like Bass Bug Taper, Steelhead Taper, Pike Taper, Saltwater Taper, Bonefish Taper, Tarpon Taper, Redfish Taper, etc.

    Then there are shooting heads, intermediate lines, sinking lines, sink tips, and so on. I don't want to get into the subsurface lines. Like the different floating lines and types, they all have their place for different situations, purposes, and preferences.
    Last edited by dixieangler; 06-08-2008 at 12:55 PM.
    Robert B. McCorquodale

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    I went out yesterday and caught some gills on small bug. If I use 3 wt, is there less "spash"? I can get some RIO trout DT floating for $30. I just don't know if it is worth it for the fish I fish for. I only trout fish 3-4 times a year. I fish for bluegill/crappie 2-3 times a week.
    Thanks for info.
    Mary

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    Quote Originally Posted by bluegillfisher View Post
    If I use 3 wt, is there less "spash"?
    Yeah, it's a lighter line so there will be less splash. It's like casting a 1/32 oz jig versus a 1/16 oz jig (although the weight differences are probably not that great.)

    Rio makes great lines, but if the 4wt works well, why change?

  5. #5
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    I have a 3/4wt rod, 7'. I have 4wt line on it and I like it alot. I was wondering if I put 3wt on another spool, would it not cast as far? I would like to use it for bluegills and trout.
    Mary
    will you have an appreciable less splash? probably not. Your 4wt line is only driving your cast further. An old secret to extending your cast and/or fully loading the rod was to put on the next heaviest line weight. Plus it allows for heavier flies.
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluegillfisher
    I went out yesterday and caught some gills on small bug. If I use 3 wt, is there less "spash"? I can get some RIO trout DT floating for $30. I just don't know if it is worth it for the fish I fish for. I only trout fish 3-4 times a year. I fish for bluegill/crappie 2-3 times a week.
    Thanks for info.
    Mary
    Less splash, yes, but negligible (Not significant or important enough to be worth considering; trifling). If the fish were not spooked by the line I was using and I was catching fish, I would not fret about getting or need another line unless I just wanted a backup line to the one I had and it was good deal. I would stick with the 4wt. line unless the fish are noticeably affected by the 4wt. line I was using.

    Either a 3wt. or 4wt. line should cast equally well on the rod you are using and the 4wt. line will not cast farther than the 3wt. line or vice versa (unless wind force is a factor so the 4wt. line would perform marginally better) even though the 4wt. line will load the rod faster and allow for a faster cast (line delivery). I would not recommend using any line higher than the manufacturer's line rating on the rod as this might damage the rod.
    Last edited by dixieangler; 06-12-2008 at 08:48 PM.
    Robert B. McCorquodale

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    Thanks guy, I'll wait on getting new line.
    Mary

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    Don't worry about the "splash" from the line its how well you present the fly and leader.

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    This topic has me excited about finally getting my new reel and 4 wt line this Tuesday (I hope). Will be putting it on my new 4 wt rod and giving it all a try. Been fishing 6 and 8 wt's.

  10. #10
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    Default line weight

    i use cheeep flyrods (eagle claw mostly) i use 8,9,10,and 11 WT DT-F on these rods.
    the heavy line really loads up the 6.5 and 7 foot rods and gives great line speed.
    i fish chicot lake and it has a lot of timber ,so you have to roll cast,no double hauls there.
    i haven't had a problem spooking fish with the heavy line ,of course chinks and gills are not trout.
    Likes zig zag LIKED above post

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