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GABoy
04-06-2005, 08:26 AM
Has anyone ever had a fuse actually melt that is supposed to be used by your trolling motor?

What could that mean?

1. The fuse was a 30 AMP fuse, was it too high of a amp fuse and it should be lower so it will blow first instead of melt? I put in a 15 AMP fuse after I saw that and it blew 2 of them almost immediately, but then the third one lasted for about 45 minutes before we got off the water. Once I got home I put in a 25 Amp fuse

2. Is there possibly a short-circuit somewhere, but wouldn't the fuse still blow first?

Any suggestions at all???

Thanks - GABoy

CatFan
04-06-2005, 08:35 AM
Has anyone ever had a fuse actually melt that is supposed to be used by your trolling motor?

What could that mean?

1. The fuse was a 30 AMP fuse, was it too high of a amp fuse and it should be lower so it will blow first instead of melt? I put in a 15 AMP fuse after I saw that and it blew 2 of them almost immediately, but then the third one lasted for about 45 minutes before we got off the water. Once I got home I put in a 25 Amp fuse

2. Is there possibly a short-circuit somewhere, but wouldn't the fuse still blow first?

Any suggestions at all???

Thanks - GABoy


The only thing that I can see causing a fuse to melt, and by melt, I'm assuming you mean the plastic body of the fuse, is undersized wiring, or a poor connection at the fuseholder. Both of these situations would cause heat that could melt the fuse. Big fuses usually deform some when they blow.

Barnacle Bill
04-06-2005, 08:42 AM
You most likely have a bad connection somewhere. They have to be clean and tight. When they are not, that increases resistence which increases amps which blow fuses. When a fuse blows, it really melts due to the increase current flowing thru it. Also it is possible your trolling motor is binding inside which will increase amperage and may need to be rebuilt.

GABoy
04-06-2005, 09:15 AM
The only thing that I can see causing a fuse to melt, and by melt, I'm assuming you mean the plastic body of the fuse, is undersized wiring, or a poor connection at the fuseholder. Both of these situations would cause heat that could melt the fuse. Big fuses usually deform some when they blow.

Okay, I didn't realize that it would actually deform when it blows...would a 30 Amp do that?

The reason I ask is because my trolling motor actually stopped working so I checked the fuse and it appeared to be bulging because it had melted some....so maybe it is fairly normal then, but I just moved down to a 25 AMP and was planning on keeping a good eye on it to see if anything else happens. The trolling motor itself is less than 5 months old and it is a Minn Kota AutoPilot, so I am really hoping that is not the problem.

Tunica
04-06-2005, 09:28 AM
Okay, I didn't realize that it would actually deform when it blows...would a 30 Amp do that?

The reason I ask is because my trolling motor actually stopped working so I checked the fuse and it appeared to be bulging because it had melted some....so maybe it is fairly normal then, but I just moved down to a 25 AMP and was planning on keeping a good eye on it to see if anything else happens. The trolling motor itself is less than 5 months old and it is a Minn Kota AutoPilot, so I am really hoping that is not the problem.

Minn Kota on MY 40lb foot control states that it needs a 50 amp fuse inline to the battery, I know I blew a 30 the other day when I trolled into short water and clay. Just a thought

Ken

LakeHardingSpirit
04-06-2005, 09:44 AM
I had a similar experience, after practically burning a good trolling motor up several years ago, of course too, it could be a matter of oiling the motor in various places, some disassembly required, I discovered that there was fishing line tangled around the shaft of the trolling motor, this was creating a bind on the shaft, some lessons are hard learned, but life is a dance we learn as we go, had to throw that in.

FishCrazed
04-06-2005, 09:51 AM
With a new TM at risk I'd check EVERY connection/solder joint as well as look for any spots where the TM wires/cables may rub against the boat ribs for worn sheath. I'd suggest using cable the size that your auto/truck battery cable is. That size cable has a heavy sheath as well as being able to safely carry the amps needed by your TM. Also go to your marine dealer and get the breakers in an amperage recommended by your TM manuel. When they trip you just rest them as you would your house breaker. I think they run about $5.

I hope thais helps and take the time to inspect every inch of your TM Cable from the battery to your TM. Also look at the TM plug as they can get corosion and cause serious heat in the resistance!

deputyking
04-06-2005, 10:11 AM
I agree with the others that the problem is in a bad connection. If the TM was shorted out or pulling too much current, then the fuse would have blown. The problem with bad connections is that it produces heat and the heat is what caused the melted parts. Look for a bad crimp on the wire connection to the fuse holder. Also make sure the fuse holder is tightly seated to the fuse. When you replace the fuse and put a load on it, check for warm spots and if there is anything heating up then the problem is not corrected.

Moose1am
04-06-2005, 11:26 AM
Well I can definatly say that I have experienced that problem and figured out a way to fix it too.

Last summer I lost my old 25 year old Motor Guide Hawg trolling motor to old age and purchased and installed a new 50 lb thrust Minn-kota All Terrain Trolling motor. Then I noticed that the fuses kept blowing about half way to my fishing spots on Blue Grass Pit. I read the Minn-Kota Manual and found out that I required a FIFTY AMP (50 amp) circuit breaker and 4 GAUGE wires to make that thing work. Well I have 10 gauges wire already in my boat but the fuse holder used automotive type fuses and the actually fuse holder was warping and melting due to the heat.

I went to the local wholesale electrical supply house and purchased a 50 amp circuit breaker and installed that in place of the fuse holder at the front of my boat. I had to go to the local car radio place to get some heavy duty amp boxes that I used to spice the 10 gauge wires together to make the connection. Cost me a fortune but ever since the new trolling motor is working much better now.

These new trolling motors pull a lot more amps though the wires and require better wiring and connections and bigger fuses or circuit breakers.

Now if the circuit breaker trips I can just use my foot to push the button back in to reset the circuit all from the confort of the front pedistal seat on my boat.





















Has anyone ever had a fuse actually melt that is supposed to be used by your trolling motor?

What could that mean?

1. The fuse was a 30 AMP fuse, was it too high of a amp fuse and it should be lower so it will blow first instead of melt? I put in a 15 AMP fuse after I saw that and it blew 2 of them almost immediately, but then the third one lasted for about 45 minutes before we got off the water. Once I got home I put in a 25 Amp fuse

2. Is there possibly a short-circuit somewhere, but wouldn't the fuse still blow first?

Any suggestions at all???

Thanks - GABoy

Tunica
04-06-2005, 11:43 AM
Yup I was surprised also to READ the manual and find out a 50 amp is required...No shorts or nothing...JUST check the MANUAL before you disassemble your boats wiring.

ribit
04-06-2005, 04:38 PM
Have not had fuse melt but breakers on trolling batteries kicked off being a dumby instead of stopping and finding what caused them to I reset them and they kicked off again. I am a little slow but learn sooner or later. A loose connection in the plug melted the plug and receptical. I got lucky did not hurt a brand new trolling motor $$$$. Good breakers. lol

GABoy
04-06-2005, 05:14 PM
I can't say that I have successfully absorbed all of that information yet, but YOU ALL HAVE SURE GIVEN ME PLENTY TO LOOK AT!!!!

THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR ALL YOUR ASSISTANCE!!!!

It is appreciated more than I can possibly say!!!

Thanks - GABoy!

tarfu
04-06-2005, 08:01 PM
howdy; here's my $0.02 worth. minn cota has an 800 number you can call. those people know thier poop! dad always told me that when ever i got a question go ask an expert. nuff said. tarfu

duane
04-07-2005, 12:36 AM
I did not have a melt down but my motor quit working last year and I worked on it on the water. Dropped the pin in the water doing so. Went back to camp and made a new pin from a nail. Still would not work so checked the fuse at the battery. It was broken (old glass type fuse) and rusted in place, well I fixed that but could never find that large of a fuse to fit. So when I got the motor tuned up before Vacation, I had them replace the okd fuses with breakers. No more trouble but now I carry extra trolling motor pins in my tackle box. But a lot of good they would do me as they are in my green crap fishing boxes and I have down sized to just carrying a crappie box. Need to move the trolling motor pins.

Moose1am
04-07-2005, 02:56 AM
Only if you run 35, 40, 45 or 50 amp though it. Sure it will deform is you overload the fuse or the FUSE HOLDER. Each is designed for a certain amount of current. Remember that current generates a lot of heat. You have to design the fuse and the fuse holder ot dissapate that heat before the thing melt and deform. That is why they recommend a circuit breaker and 4 gauge wilre for high amp usage trolling motors these days.




Okay, I didn't realize that it would actually deform when it blows...would a 30 Amp do that?

The reason I ask is because my trolling motor actually stopped working so I checked the fuse and it appeared to be bulging because it had melted some....so maybe it is fairly normal then, but I just moved down to a 25 AMP and was planning on keeping a good eye on it to see if anything else happens. The trolling motor itself is less than 5 months old and it is a Minn Kota AutoPilot, so I am really hoping that is not the problem.

Moose1am
04-07-2005, 03:00 AM
Actually increased resistance causes heat and lower the amp flow. Hot electrons are spread apart. Molecules vibrate when they get hot. The hotter they get the more the vibrate and the further each molecule moves away from the other molecules. More space is created in-between each molecule. Electrons can't jump across a large space so the current (Flow of electrons) slows down when things get very hot.


Super conductors work because they are super cooled with Liquid nitrogen. The molecules move closer together when they are super cooled and the electrons in the outer orbitals of atoms can move to another atom easier when the atoms are packed closely together. Less heat means more conduction. Cold is the absence of heat.



You most likely have a bad connection somewhere. They have to be clean and tight. When they are not, that increases resistence which increases amps which blow fuses. When a fuse blows, it really melts due to the increase current flowing thru it. Also it is possible your trolling motor is binding inside which will increase amperage and may need to be rebuilt.

GABoy
04-07-2005, 07:01 AM
Guess what the issue was, as least it seems logical in this case?

I decided to start with what appeared to be the easiest first....I pulled off the prop to see if there was fishing line behind the prop.....and GUESS WHAT???

Let's say there was about 25 - 30 yards of 4lb test wrapped all up around the shaft......I think that might have just a little bit to do with it, probably would have caused undue friction and made the trolling motor work harder and get hotter, maybe???

Does that sound logical?

THANKS AGAIN EVERYONE!!!!!

Barnacle Bill
04-07-2005, 07:16 AM
Guess what the issue was, as least it seems logical in this case?

I decided to start with what appeared to be the easiest first....I pulled off the prop to see if there was fishing line behind the prop.....and GUESS WHAT???

Let's say there was about 25 - 30 yards of 4lb test wrapped all up around the shaft......I think that might have just a little bit to do with it, probably would have caused undue friction and made the trolling motor work harder and get hotter, maybe???

Does that sound logical?

THANKS AGAIN EVERYONE!!!!!

That would certainly do it!

CrappiePappy
04-07-2005, 07:21 AM
even if that doesn't fix the "fuse" problem .... it's certainly a good thing you looked there and found the line ! That line could have, eventually, cut into the seal and let water leak into the TM head :( ... not good !!

I had a problem with blowing fuses, on a trolling motor - years back. My mechanic friend had me cut the fuse completely off the TM power line ... and install a "breaker box". No reset button - and the "breaker" was back next to the battery, anyway. Whenever I would constantly run on high for a while, the TM would stop ... but, if I gave it a few seconds to cool off - it started right back up, and ran for a while longer. The wiring was not big enough to carry the load of a prolonged run at full speed....but the breaker allowed me to keep going, after a short pause, and not have to constantly be putting in new fuses. And I'm sure it was only around a 27lb thrust TM. It was just the 15ft of distance from the battery to the TM, and the smaller guage wire, that was causing the problem. The breaker worked fine ... and saved me the expense of re-wiring with 8ga or larger wire. (note - this was over 15yrs ago, when I was a po' white boy ... and the breaker is still working !) .............cp :cool:

GABoy
04-07-2005, 08:14 AM
even if that doesn't fix the "fuse" problem .... it's certainly a good thing you looked there and found the line ! That line could have, eventually, cut into the seal and let water leak into the TM head :( ... not good !!

I had a problem with blowing fuses, on a trolling motor - years back. My mechanic friend had me cut the fuse completely off the TM power line ... and install a "breaker box". No reset button - and the "breaker" was back next to the battery, anyway. Whenever I would constantly run on high for a while, the TM would stop ... but, if I gave it a few seconds to cool off - it started right back up, and ran for a while longer. The wiring was not big enough to carry the load of a prolonged run at full speed....but the breaker allowed me to keep going, after a short pause, and not have to constantly be putting in new fuses. And I'm sure it was only around a 27lb thrust TM. It was just the 15ft of distance from the battery to the TM, and the smaller guage wire, that was causing the problem. The breaker worked fine ... and saved me the expense of re-wiring with 8ga or larger wire. (note - this was over 15yrs ago, when I was a po' white boy ... and the breaker is still working !) .............cp :cool:

Thanks CP, that is another great idea if the problem is not resolved after removing the line!!!

I appreciate the tip !!

TAZ
04-07-2005, 06:56 PM
Just a thought guys-- Make real sure you have the wiring to handle the load. 50 amps on a small wire is alot.The breaker is for wire protection also. 4 guage wire would be a wise choice and will insure maximum performance out of your new motor. With a motor costing $700.00 why not use all of it? Hope it helps!

Moose1am
04-07-2005, 10:53 PM
Good advise TAZ.

I should update my wireing from 10 gauge to 4 gauge to get more juice to my trolling motor. But that will make my optima run down faster. LOL But that is a good thing. I just got me a new Minn_kota battery charger to help keep them Optima's in tip top shape. If I pay 400 bucks for two Optima batteries then another 60 bucks for a good charger is not too bad an idea. This should ensure that they are charged up right and maintain them with a trickle charge. I opted to get the portalbe Minn_kota battery charger as I don't have a lot of room in the back compartment of my boat to installed a battery charger in there close to the optimas. I just charge the batterys when I put the boat in my garage. There is a 110 volt AC receptical within 4 ft of the back of my boat where the batteries are. I just back the boat into my garage and hook the battery charger up the the battery and then plug the charger into the outlet and turn the charger on and let her charge up the battery overnight. That seems to work good.


Just a thought guys-- Make real sure you have the wiring to handle the load. 50 amps on a small wire is alot.The breaker is for wire protection also. 4 guage wire would be a wise choice and will insure maximum performance out of your new motor. With a motor costing $700.00 why not use all of it? Hope it helps!

Barnacle Bill
04-08-2005, 07:32 AM
Still confused?? Here is a little help to determine what size wire you need. This is one of those cases where bigger is better. http://www.minnkotamotors.com/support/faq.asp#wg