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Thread: Another Newbie???? (Part II)

  1. #1
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    Default Another Newbie???? (Part II)


    OK I’m hooked. Went out the other day and only caught one but that’s all it took to get the fever. I realized in a hurry that trying to cast and manage multiple rods without a rod holders is a pain and the arse so at the this point I’m going to switch over from casting and give trolling and vertical jigging a try. Question is……I’m heading to basspro tomorrow and plan on buying 4 jigging/trolling poles and a four-pole driftmaster rod holder. I plan on getting the BnM poles but should I get four 12’ poles or some other length combination and I noticed the bass pro sells different version of BnM poles??? Which type of BnM should I get? Also, Are my zebco 11t spincast reels OK for these poles?

    Now onto my last question before my official newbie question. When I was casting the other day I was using slip bobbers but I found that I constantly had to check the bobber stops for depth as they would get caught on the eyes of the rod when reeling in and not stay at the depth I had set them at. These were the bobber stops that come on the little rubber tube that basspro sells. Is there a better bobber stop than this type or a better way for accurately marking depth on your line?

    Now its time for my official Newbie question. What is the difference between tightling and vertical jigging. Isn’t tightlining simply when you have a fish on the line, you just lift the pole up in the air and swing the fish on the boat without reeling? Just trying to get a grip on the “lingo” Also, do you use a bobber when tightliing or just the fish the jig or minnow and watch the tips of the rod? I figured I’d paint the tips of my jigging poles bright orange or chartreuse to make it easier to detect bites.

    Thanks again for the help!

    tom

  2. #2
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    The length of poles is a personal preference and should be based on how you can place them in four boat. Most tightline situations with 4 poles would be 2 on one side of a front mounted trolling motor and 2 on the other side. If the rod holder can be mounted square in the front of the boat then a 4 place setup will work.
    Some guys like 2, 14 ft. poles out the front and 2 , 12 ft poles beside them. Personal preference really. I have used 16's out the front with 14's beside them and 4 12's beside them in an 8 rod set up, but I have gone back to 8 12 foot rods.
    I use Wally Marshall's so someone else will have to advise on the B&M poles.
    I like reels you can pull line from easily for tight linning. ( for depth control) but the reels you suggest should work fine.
    I have the same problem with the bobber stop. I have used every kind made and everyone of them with any use will hang in the eye if you try to fish any depth. I have saw reports where guys swear by them, but they do not work for me. If you take a pair of pliers and really tighten the bobber stop line it will not slip. It will catch in the eye no matter how close you trim it.
    Tightlining is the term used for vertical fishing by slow trolling. It is usually done with a slip sinker,bead, swivel and 12 to 18 inch leader. A plain hook or jig is attached to the leader. Some also use a double hook set up. Depending on the depth fished the fish can be put in the boat without reeling. The rig can be employed in 30 plus feet of water as well as 2 ft of water. In the first the fish has to be reeled in. In the second line has to be released to land the fish.
    Others use just a jig or split shot and jig. I call that slow trolling and not tightlining.
    Vertical jigging would be done with pole in hand over brush or some other type structure. A jig, kentucky rig, or drop shot rig could be used. A search of the forum will yield information on kentucky rig, drop shot and bobber stop.
    Some folks use slip float ( unattached) on their line when tightlining. They watch that instead of the rod tip. I have never used that technique.
    If you used an attached float with a jig or split shot and jig under it you would in my opinon be slow trolling with a cork or float and not tight linning.

    Good luck



  3. #3
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    Tom so many questions LOL

    12 ft rods will work. So will 10 ft rod. and some guys use even longer rods 16 ft. I personally prefer the 10ft rod as I like to hold my fishing rod while fishing. I dont' spider rig right now so I tightline and vertical jig with one or maybe two hand held rods while slowing moving the boat with the trolling motor.

    Something you might consider when painting the rod tips. Might try that liquid tape stuff. It's a liquid substance that dries to a rubbery compound. That stuff would be easier to remove later one and may work great if you can get the right color. Some guys like Rango use White paint as they fish a lot at night and White is much easier to see at night. White may not be easy to see during the daytime as the glare on the water may make white paint harder to see. A color that contrast with the water's surface or the sky color may work best. Chartruse may work good both at night and during the day. I really don't know which color would work the best as I have not fooled around with that stuff yet. Let me know what works best for your when you figure that out.

    Tightlining is just having any line off a pole hanging straight down with some weight on the end of the line and any baits jigs, minnows, crickets or any combination of baits and jigs. The term means just what is says. The line is kept tight so that you can feel the bite at the end of the line. It does not have anything to do with the amount of line out or the type of pole used. While the description you gave would be a form of tightlining. Hope this clears that part of your questions up. I use to fish with a long cane pole and a fixed amount of line tied to the end of the bamboo cane pole. Now if I used a KY lake rig on that systsem it would be a form of tightlining. But if I put a bobber on the line above the hook then it would not be tightlining anymore. See the difference now.

    As for a slip bobber. I was not clear on the type that you are using. I use the Thrill type slip bobbers and actualy make my own. I take bead thread from the hobby lobby and tie it around small tubes which I save from the store bougth thrill type bobbers stops. Wal-Mart sells these type of bobber stops here where I live. They are simply some heavy type thread tied around a small diameter plastic tube 1/2" long by about 1/8" dia with a nail knot. You put the fishing line though the inside of the tube and slide the tub up your fishing line towards the reel. then slide the threaded nail knot off the tube and then take the tube back off the fishing line leaving the nail knoted heavy thread tied around your fishing line. Pull on both ends of the nail knot to tighten the heavy thread onto your fishing line. Wet the fishing line some and slide the nail knoted heavy thread up or down the fishing line to set the depth.

    Now check to make sure that the rod you are using to casth this slip bobber setup has large eyes on the fishing line guides. The better rods use the Fugui Type large eye fishing line guides. These are made out of a hard ceramic type material and they let the fishing line slide thought the guides easier. Some older rods used another type of guide that can wear and have grooves develop in the guides espeically when you use the braided type fishing lines. Those braided type lines can get dirt and small particles in the line and that can help the line abrade the fishing rod's guides and cause the grooves.

    I also cut the tag and standing end of my thrill bobber stop threads short so that they don't get caught in the fishing line guide at the tip of my rod as that is normally the smallest guide in diameter and the one most likely to get the bobber stop hung up on when casting.

    Might want to check out the Tite Loc rod holders as they are adjustable in all three Axis where the drift master rod holders don't adjust on the up down angle from what I can see. With the tite loc rod holders you can adjust them to hold the rod at 7 O Clock, 8 O Clock, 9 O Clock, 10 O Clock though 12 O Clock. Most of the guides I see using the spider rig will adjust the rod holders to keep the tip of a 12 to 16 ft long rod right above the water's surface. I am not sure if the drift master rod holders allow you to do that. Someone please correct me if I am wrong here as I would love to see the driftmaster rods do that. And if they do adjust in this axis then I may get me some of them instead of the titeloc rod holders. I like the way the driftmaster rod holders allow the reel to sit in the holder and they look like they are designed to get the rod out of the rod holder faster and with less fuss. I think that is an important factor. But I want the rods where the tips are just about 6" off the surface of the water out in the front of my boat.

    I have not use rod holders yet. Here in IN we can only use two or three rods for each person and that means I am limited to just three rods while fishing alone. I could get someone else to fish with me but the front of my boat is not really wide enough to have two people up there.

    Right now would be an ideal time for me to think about adding some rod holders as I have the carpet off the front of my boat as I am putting new carpet on that part of my boat. I can see the boat deck now and see where to add the holes to mount the base units. Another project for me to take on. LOL

    Quote Originally Posted by TomC
    OK I’m hooked. Went out the other day and only caught one but that’s all it took to get the fever. I realized in a hurry that trying to cast and manage multiple rods without a rod holders is a pain and the arse so at the this point I’m going to switch over from casting and give trolling and vertical jigging a try. Question is……I’m heading to basspro tomorrow and plan on buying 4 jigging/trolling poles and a four-pole driftmaster rod holder. I plan on getting the BnM poles but should I get four 12’ poles or some other length combination and I noticed the bass pro sells different version of BnM poles??? Which type of BnM should I get? Also, Are my zebco 11t spincast reels OK for these poles?

    Now onto my last question before my official newbie question. When I was casting the other day I was using slip bobbers but I found that I constantly had to check the bobber stops for depth as they would get caught on the eyes of the rod when reeling in and not stay at the depth I had set them at. These were the bobber stops that come on the little rubber tube that basspro sells. Is there a better bobber stop than this type or a better way for accurately marking depth on your line?

    Now its time for my official Newbie question. What is the difference between tightling and vertical jigging. Isn’t tightlining simply when you have a fish on the line, you just lift the pole up in the air and swing the fish on the boat without reeling? Just trying to get a grip on the “lingo” Also, do you use a bobber when tightliing or just the fish the jig or minnow and watch the tips of the rod? I figured I’d paint the tips of my jigging poles bright orange or chartreuse to make it easier to detect bites.

    Thanks again for the help!

    tom
    Regards,

    Moose1am

  4. #4
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    One word on slip bobbers and bobber stops.

    I started out using the string on a tube deals and they drove me crazy. After they got wet they would loosen up and were worthless.

    I took the advice of Jerry Blake and bought some of the small plastic, 4 hole bobber stops and they have worked quite well. Easy to adjust and last a long time. They make it through the guides without problems and reel on to the spool without issue.

    After they get a bit worn one end or the other will sometimes bend and catch on the line in the spool or a guide. It's time to replace.

    Having said this, I'm sure that the string type works well if you put it on correctly. I just lost my patience with them.

    One other thing, if you find you have to put a new one of these little plastic stops on while out fishing on a windy day....you'll be cussing. Also...if your eyes are like mine you'll have a heck of a time putting 4lb test throught the little bitty holes.
    "You should have been here yesterday!"

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    Thanks so much. Just glanced over your replies but will read more closely this evening as my wife as me laying pine straw, pine bark and all sorts of other foolishness yard work and honey dues today but maybe it will buy me some time later in the week out on the boat.

    tom

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    Hey hoot:

    I switched to a larger diameter line and then those thread bobbers stopped worked better. They are very hard to get tight on a 4lb test line. I moved up to 6lb test line and so far it's really been good to me. I like the 6lb iron silk and now the 6lb stren mono. I know what you mean by them stops not staying in place.

    I found out that some fishing lines are not of Uniform diameter. Some sections of the line are of less diameter than the other sections of the same line. That is a quality control problem with the manufactuing of the line. I found that the Trilene XL 4lb test line was like that.

    I also leave a lot of thread on both the tag end and the standing line end of those bobber stops. That allows me to snugh them tight onto the line after they get wet. Even mono will absorb some water after it's been in the water a while and expand to a small degree.

    Those four hole plastic tab stops work good and will stay in one place on the fishing line. But I found that they get hung up in my reel if I am setting the bobber deeper than my pole is long. In the past I used a shorter 4' 6" ultralight rod (graphite) and if I was fishing with the slip bobber set to deeper than 5 feet I often found the bobber stop wound up on the reel. When I tried the next cast it would catch and prevent me from casting. I snapped off a lot of bobbers doing that and got to where I didn't like those plastic things.

    Jerry on the other hand uses much longer poles and he set them in rod holders. I don't think he is casting with that setup and then they should work bettter. They won't be reeled up into the line on the reel where they can get caught when trying to cast out the baits. This is why I started using the heavy thread type bobber stops as they can be reeled up into the line on the reel and not get caught up so easily in the fishing line on the reel.

    Now that I have some longer 10ft rods I may go back and try putting some of those plastic things on my line like Jerry Uses. I can then fish in water up to about 9ft deep and still not have them get caught up in line on the reel.






    Quote Originally Posted by Hoot
    One word on slip bobbers and bobber stops.

    I started out using the string on a tube deals and they drove me crazy. After they got wet they would loosen up and were worthless.

    I took the advice of Jerry Blake and bought some of the small plastic, 4 hole bobber stops and they have worked quite well. Easy to adjust and last a long time. They make it through the guides without problems and reel on to the spool without issue.

    After they get a bit worn one end or the other will sometimes bend and catch on the line in the spool or a guide. It's time to replace.

    Having said this, I'm sure that the string type works well if you put it on correctly. I just lost my patience with them.

    One other thing, if you find you have to put a new one of these little plastic stops on while out fishing on a windy day....you'll be cussing. Also...if your eyes are like mine you'll have a heck of a time putting 4lb test throught the little bitty holes.
    Regards,

    Moose1am

  7. #7
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    Default Hey TomC

    I use the 4 hole gizmo that JerryB spoke about. Works fine, but i did move up to the 8 lb test line as Moose mentioned. I place a gizmo above and below my float, with the below gizmo near the hook, above the sinker. This saves the float (in many cases) if you break the line. Line usually breaks on or near the hook. Only drawback is like Whizkids said. Hard to rig gizmos on a not so perfect day...lol... The gizmo tends to bend where it constantly hits the top of the float. If u see it bending, then it is time to replace it, or u will be cussing it...MY 2 centavos...
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    Yep, I'm using 6 and 8 lb and those plastic stops work much better. I normally don't wind them onto the spool. I'm cast with a 7 ft. spinning rod and that's when I use them most. If I'm fishing with some longer like 10 or 12 ft I just mark the line with a marker to the depth I'm fishing without a bobber anyway.

    I tried the plastic thing on my 5' rod with micro reel...4 lb test, gave me the fits. I'll try those strings again and see what the heck I'm doing wrong. But I like not having to worry with that stuff when I get into a school of good ones.
    "You should have been here yesterday!"

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    Tom

    All the fellows above characterized bobber stop fishing quit well. One thing they didn't mention was was the fustration when one slid the glass tube off the bobber stop the wrong direction and then having to break the glass tube off with out cutting your line. I quess I've done that maybe a couple of times but some people learn quicker than other.
    I don't use the bobber stops now like I used to but when I discovered that the knot would/or was slipping I would drop my rod tip while reeling in(as the knot approached the tip) and open up the angle the bobber stop on the line approached the rod tip. This seemed to help but it was just something else to focus on while bringing in a fish because I would be risking loosing the fish by dropping the rod tip but trying not to get slack in the line.
    Just my two cents. Good luck.
    “There is no difference between communism and socialism, except in the means of achieving the same ultimate end: communism proposes to enslave men by force, socialism—by vote. It is merely the difference between murder and suicide.” Ayn Rand

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    Instead of painting your rod tips you could go to the archery section of BPS and get some arrow wraps. They come in bright colors and if they get screwed up you can peel them back off. Just take a straight edge and a razor blade and cut them narrower. I've got some extras at home and I'm gonna put them on my new jig rods tonight.
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