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Thread: Bobber stop info needed

  1. #1
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    Default Bobber stop info needed


    Hi.
    Can someone draw me a simple diagram on how these little bobber stops
    are supposed to placed on the line. I see'em at BPS, but have no idea how
    they are applied. "If it looks simple enough, I may try 'em!"


    http://image.basspro.com/images/images2/81000/81201.jpg

    Much Appreciated!

    Rick
    Formally: BoxingRef_Rick.

  2. #2
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    Rick,
    They are definitely worth using! You place your line through the small wire loop at the end and then just slide it onto your line. It's VERY simple! Once you have one in your hand, you will see how it works. They don't hang up on your rod eyes as much as the thread ones.
    Good luck to ya!
    -Shonn

  3. #3
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    Default

    Me and Jason Wallis have been using them here lately and they are working great. Just like shild said you just put your line through the wire loop leave about six inches of line past the loop and pull it on. they hold up pretty well and you don't have to ajust them as much as the tied ones so far. They do have different sizes for different sized line.

    good luck and good fishing
    Last edited by grubby; 10-06-2007 at 11:26 PM.
    MT.DEW AND JP8 IN THE MORNING GETS THE BLOOD FLOWING.

  4. #4
    CrappiePappy's Avatar
    CrappiePappy is offline Super Moderator - 2013 Man Of The Year * Crappie.com Supporter
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    Wink Hey Ref ....

    Quote Originally Posted by boxingref_rick
    Hi.
    Can someone draw me a simple diagram on how these little bobber stops
    are supposed to placed on the line. I see'em at BPS, but have no idea how
    they are applied. "If it looks simple enough, I may try 'em!"
    http://image.basspro.com/images/images2/81000/81201.jpg
    Much Appreciated!
    Rick
    As Shild & Grubby have already mentioned ... you just pull them on your line. BUT, what they didn't mention, is that you want to wet the line FIRST. Slick that last foot of tag line up with water or spit, THEN put the wet line thru the wire loop and pull the rubber core/bead onto it. Same reasoning as wetting the line before cinching down a knot ... reduce the friction (heat) that may weaken the line. You will also want to wet the line, anytime that you increase/decrease your depth (by sliding the rubber core up/down the line)

    The only other "trick" I've learned, while using this type of bobber stop, is meant to allow the rubber core to pass thru the tip eye of your rod ... without hanging on it, and getting pulled down the line, thus decreasing your depth setting. Small tip eyes, as on UL rods and some longpoles, will hang your rubber core at times. What I do, is to watch for the rubber core on the line, while I'm reeling in the fish. When I see that it's about to enter the tip eye, I dip the rod tip just a couple of inches VERY QUICKLY (while continuing to reel) and just long enough to allow a little bit of slack in the line ... to allow the rubber core to pass thru the tip eye ... then put the tension back on. This is about a 1/2 second manuever, and if done correctly, you won't lose the fish or your pre-set depth. With the rubber core being colored blue, you should be able to see it coming. This manuever is only necessary, of course, if you're depth setting is much greater than the rod length.

    .... luck2ya ... cp

  5. #5
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    Default Confused

    Once you put the line through the wire loop do you actually pull the wire and the line "back through" the stop and what about the "bead" that comes with these.

    I think I am thinking too deep!

    JohnS

  6. #6
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    CrappiePappy is offline Super Moderator - 2013 Man Of The Year * Crappie.com Supporter
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    Talking JohnS ....

    Quote Originally Posted by JOHNS
    Once you put the line through the wire loop do you actually pull the wire and the line "back through" the stop and what about the "bead" that comes with these.
    I think I am thinking too deep!
    JohnS

    No, basically what you do is put the "wet" line thru the wire loop - grab the bead/stop - and pull them both, together, OFF the wire and onto the line. Keep pulling until the doubled line comes free (the line will essentially be in a loop, as it's pulled thru the bead/stop).
    The bead is there to keep the stop from lodging in the hole at the top of the float (provided, but not always necessary). I use the oblong shaped styrofoam floats, that have a line straw thru them ... but, remove the line straw. This leaves a larger diameter hole, which the rubber stop can pass thru or get lodged in. I remedy that by adding a larger bead to the line, or replacing the smaller bead with a larger one.
    On removing the center line straw ... Why I do this, you may ask ... ... I just do :p -- personal quirk, I guess, as it really doesn't make much difference, overall. It is a little less difficult to drop a float (w/o straw) down thru branches, and the wind affects the float less, and they're less likely to get hung "sideways" in the branches ... some things I learned, using them to fish the Button Bushes ("Buck Brush") of Lake Barkley ... and just stuck with doing it that way :D

    ... cp

  7. #7
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    Default Fishin line

    I just tie a quick double knot (granny knot) around my main line with 4-6 pound line and that seems to do the trick for me. I crimp off any excess line leaving just enough on to where it doesnt go through the bobber. Here is a pick of my set-up. The knot is just abouve the bobber.
    Name:  slipfloat.jpg
Views: 4423
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    Tight Lines!
    Jason Piper

  8. #8
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    Default

    I just tie on a piece of rubber band above the bead. It is cheap, easy, and works well. I am long poling, though, and I don't know whether this would work if you were casting. I would probably try it first before I bought the stops.

  9. #9
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    crappiekid24 is offline Moderator Ice Fishing Forum * Crappie.com Supporter
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    Default

    I use the string ones. I haven't even used up a quarter of the large pack. The wire ones work great also. As crappiepappy said wet the line before putting it on.

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