Color vs. Depth Guideline?

[Indy-Travis]

I have at least a bit of an idea of color choices for different water clarity conditions, but is there a rule fo thumb or guideline for color and depth (all else being equal)? Such as, I know I have heard red is one of the first colors to "dissappear" as you go down in the water column, but does that mean it can't be seen, or it appears as a different color? If it does become "not visible" it would make sense to not use if if fishing deeper than a few feet, even in clear water. I am just wondering if there is some method to eliminate or select some colors soley based on the depth the fish seem active. On a side note, I have read numberous times where red is invisible in the water, such as the "Cajun Red" fishing line promos. I have wondered how this relates to the "bleeding hook" craze. At depths below a few feet, is it the red color's blood appeal, or the fact that it is not as visible as say a black or gold hook that makes some think the fish bite it better? Anyway, just trying to figure out if there is a color/depth relationship to think about besides, or at least in addition to clarity/color relationship.

[papasage]

try the color c lector there is a new one out . some dont beleve in them . but you have to fine the depth that the fish are feeding and drop the prob down that depth . i try all depths that fish are on and put the colors that depth . papasage

[ncnat]

Pro catch is making a color selector now. I use it to tell me what colors not to use. You may be surprised at the water clarity/color relationship.

[Moose1am]

Hey Indy:

When the red wave lengths of light are filtered out then the only light wave lenghts left are the blues and greens in very deep water. Red objects are red because they are painted with a substance that only reflects red light wave lengths. They absorb all the other color wave lenghts of light waves. Therefore if there is no red light shining on them they will appear to NOT HAVE ANY COLOR. Not having any color is being BLACK. We see the color we call Black because there is no visible light waves being reflected off the black object. All the waves of visible light are being absorbed. Therefore we see it as black.

So the answer to your question is the red hook will appear as black in deeper or very muddy water that has filtered out all the red wave lenghts of light

Red hooks may work in very clear water and in shallow water. It all depends on how much red light can reach the hook.

It all depends on water chemistry. Some things in the water will absorb different wave lenghts of light. Since each lake is surrounded by different types of soil and land uses around different lakes vary the type and quantity of dissolved chemicals in each lake will differ. After rains the soils are washed into the lake and muddy up the water so the same lake can vary in clarity over time. So the depth that the Red light completly vanishs under water will vary from lake to lake and from time to time.

I have read a lot about light as I got into photography and have used light waves detection machines in my chemistry classes. I have sampled small amounts of water using a spectrometer but never taken a spec under the water. LOL. So the actual depth where the reds vanish complete is subject to change and not easily predicted. Maybe those color selector machines that are sold will measure the different light wave lenghs under the water at various depths. I think about this stuff a lot when in here but when I get out on the lake I don't have time to dwell on this stuff too much. I just look at the sky and determine how much sunlight is there. If it's bright I fish in the shady spots. If's it's overcast the fish can roam around the flats and shallower water more.


The one rule of thumb I have always heard is use light lure colors on bright days and dark lure colors on overcast days. I am not sure if this works or why it would work. May have to do with the fact that fish are looking up for food and the brightness of the sky effects the lures that they see above them. Light colored lures would be harder for them to see against a bright sky vs using a dark lure. Remember that the fish are looking up into the sunlighted sky. Now if you are a fish and and are looking at a while lure against a dark bottom then it would be easier to see the lure.

I guess you have to think about this for a bit. Are you fishing topwater, medium depth baits or along the bottom of the lake. What color is the bottom of the lake as well as what is the water clarity. Lots to figure out.

Only the fish know for sure what they like. LOL

I have at least a bit of an idea of color choices for different water clarity conditions, but is there a rule fo thumb or guideline for color and depth (all else being equal)? Such as, I know I have heard red is one of the first colors to "dissappear" as you go down in the water column, but does that mean it can't be seen, or it appears as a different color? If it does become "not visible" it would make sense to not use if if fishing deeper than a few feet, even in clear water. I am just wondering if there is some method to eliminate or select some colors soley based on the depth the fish seem active. On a side note, I have read numberous times where red is invisible in the water, such as the "Cajun Red" fishing line promos. I have wondered how this relates to the "bleeding hook" craze. At depths below a few feet, is it the red color's blood appeal, or the fact that it is not as visible as say a black or gold hook that makes some think the fish bite it better? Anyway, just trying to figure out if there is a color/depth relationship to think about besides, or at least in addition to clarity/color relationship.

[papasage]

[Moose1am]

Just wondering exactly how these things work. Do you lower a probe on a electrical chord down into the water column to read the amount and quality of light at different depths? Or does this work only at the surface? If it does have a chord then how long is the chord. ie how deep can it go?

[crap-king]

my old one had a cord marked with the depth readings with the probe at the end and you just droped it over the side to the depth you were marking fish

[papasage]

the one i have is like Krppie King had or has .i stiil got mine heard of some selling them on e bay cheep . i will just keep mine .
i read a artickle on a man that give me the idea of the depth of the fish verses the depth of the color used . search with the depth finder see what level thr fish are at and then probe for the color for each depth . . then the one you git bites on then fish that depth and color .papasage

P S does that make sense ??????????????????? :D

[whizkids]

CRAPPIE VISION: Crappie can see colors well and many anglers like to use colorful lures to fish for them. However, like all fish, their ability to see is influenced by water depth, light levels, water clarity and water temperature. Also, a crappie's willingness to attack lures of different colors and presentations depends upon the fish's activity level.

Water filters colors out of light and certain colors disappear first. Think of a rainbow that has red hues on one side and gradually fades to blue colors on the other side. The colors on the red side are filtered out first and the colors on the blue side are filtered out last. Consequently, as water begins to get deep it looks green, but really deep water looks blue. Because of this natural law, red lures are visible only in shallow water, orange a little deeper, yellow even deeper, green deeper still and blue lures are visible in the deepest water. Black is also a good deep-water lure color. White is visible at many depths, because it reflects any available light. But the other vision factors should be considered before a lure is selected.

The effects of water clarity and light levels are not always obvious. The simplest way to remember this concept is that richer versions of any color are most visible in clear water and bright light, while lighter, pastel versions of each color are most visible in stained or murky water and/or low light levels. In other words, red, orange, white, rich green and deeper blue are most visible in clear water with bright light. As light levels fade and/or the water becomes murkier, the best colors become pink, yellow, chartreuse, lighter blue, and black. When the fish seem to lose interest in a lure than was working well earlier in the day, it may be due to changes in light or water clarity. If changes in wind or current have let the water calm down and become more clear, or if clouds have cleared away to allow brighter light, change to richer lure colors or white. If the wind has churned up the water and decreased visibility or if clouds have moved in or the sun is going down, switch to pastel colors or black.

In some recent studies, water temperature was determined to have a dramatic effect on fish vision. Since crappie rely heavily on vision for hunting, this information is important for crappie anglers to understand. The concept is very simple: the colder the water, the better a fish can see. This is because the lower temperatures help the cells in a fish's eye to function better. This means that crappie, like other fish, may be able to see smaller lures at deeper levels in cold water than they can in warm water. It also means that they will be better able to see fishing line, so an angler may need to use lighter monafilament or fluorocarbon line in cold water.

Finally, a crappie's activity level will determine how it reacts to lures of different colors and presentations. The most substantial difference in lure color is the contrast between lure and background color. Active fish are more likely to attack lures that contrast with the color of the water and structure in the area. Think of red, orange, yellow, white, and sometimes black if the background is light. Inactive fish are more likely to attack lures that blend with the surrounding background colors, like a baitfish would. Try green, chartreuse, blue, neutral colors, and occasionally black if the background is dark. For lure presentation, active fish are more likely to attack a lure with more movement, while inactive fish are more likely to attack lures with less movement. There needs to be some lure movement, though, even if it is followed by a pause, because movement is what tells the fish that the lure may be food, rather than part of the background. Always consider water depth, water clarity, light levels, and water temperatures to help decide which colors to try first. And always be ready to try something different if the first choice doesn't work. When fishing regulations allow multiple poles and/or multiple lures, it's easier to determine what will work best.

By Michael Finley

http://mike_esq.tripod.com/mikesfishingtips/index.html

[JimA]

Looking at the ads for the C-Lector there are two columns for each water clarity - Clear, Stained, Muddy. The left column only has 5 or 6 colors in wide bands, the right column has many colors with small bands. For you folks that are familiar with how this operates, does one column, say the left indicate the primary color, and the other, say the right, indicate the secondary color. If this is correct why not start with all the primary colors and you are bound to hit the right one, or is this too much of an over-simplification. Just curious - thanks, JimA