Crankbait line twist problem.

[TapOut64]

I had been tying my line directly to my crankbaits but decided to try using one of these to make change out easier:



Problem is, it twisted the heck out of my line. Should I just tie direct or go with a swivel/interlock snap combo?

[SteveJ]

I use these with a levelwind reel and don't have a problem but do when I use a spin reel.

http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/st...=SearchResults

[TapOut64]

I am using spinning reels.

[kygorski]

Those snaps wont cause line twist. Its the spinning reel, not to many solutions to give. BUT if you switch to braided line, the twist problem wont be that bad. I use spinning tackle about 90% of the time, jigs and mono are the worst culprits. Snap swivels will effect the weay most crank baits operate.Try the braid, besides that initial price, may be high, but you only need to change lines once every two years, I fish at least twice a week, maybe 48 weeks a year, and the braids pay for them selves.

[CrappiePappy]

I had been tying my line directly to my crankbaits but decided to try using one of these to make change out easier:



Problem is, it twisted the heck out of my line. Should I just tie direct or go with a swivel/interlock snap combo?

It would depend on "WHY" the line is being twisted. With crankbaits, usually excessive speed is the main reason for "twist" ... as they can & do "roll" when pulled thru the water too fast. Hanging the hooks into flotsam/jetsam (junk in the water) is another reason for "spinning" crankbaits ... but, when they do encounter such stuff, they generally come to the top (unless, of course, they're weighted down with lead on the line).
Other than that, casting cranks with a spinning reel can add a lot of twist to the line. The lure can/will spin or tumble in the air, as it's cast, which imparts twists to the line. Clips, clamps, swivels, or direct tying to the bait has no part in "making" line twist ... and swivels will only aleviate a little of the twisting, if any.
I've also found that tying a leader/jig to the "back" hooks of a crankbait, will cause the crankbait to "flatten out" its trajectory, causing it to spin or roll ... rather than dive "nose down", because of the pull against the rear of the bait. Tying the leader to the front hooks helps the crankbait maintain a nose down trajectory.
Size of crankbait may also have some effect, in relation to speed being trolled. Smaller cranks, and cranks with small/short bills seem to roll more often when trolled at greater speeds.
Some or all of this may fly in the face of the more experienced crank trollers experiences ... but, this has been my experience with trolling cranks. I use the small wire "clip", on crankbaits, whether casting or trolling them, and am generally using a baitcast outfit ... but, even when using a spinning outfit, my observations/results have been the same. My best countering moves, to help stop/remove line twist, has been to slow down my trolling speed .... and to do the "drag the empty line behind the idling boat" trick. And when using a jig on a leader, using a larger version of the crankbait also helps eliminate the "rolling over" problem, to a degree (again, speed is a key factor).

I lost all faith in the ability of swivels to stop line twist, years ago, when I used to troll "Shysters" (in-line spinners) for White Bass. The swivels would spin right along with the bait, and if they even eliminated a small percentage of line twist, they didn't do it until the line was severely twisted to the point of not being able to twist another turn. When Rooster Tails came out, years later, the results were the same. Only when they were "modified" by the mfg, did the line twisting become a little less of a problem. Their "modification" was to make the line tie eye "offset" ... rather than a circular in-line eye. And I'm not talking about the el cheapo brass swivels, either ... I was using Sampo ball bearing swivels. The dynamics of a spinning blade, or the whole bait spinning, is more than even the Sampo's can overcome ... until the pressure is equalized on the "line to rod tip" side of things. And that doesn't seem to occur until the line is twisted to the max, already ... which is too late to be of much benefit. At least, that's been my experience/observation.

.... cp

[TapOut64]

I was pulling Bandit 100's anywhere from 1.0-1.8 mph. Thanks for the input.

[longliner]

I pull cranks about 95% of the time when I fish and I use bait casters, the only time I've had problems with twist is if my lure is not tuned right. I usally have about 125 to 150 feet of line out so I've found that a well tuned lure is the most important part of trolling cranks. one thing to keep in mind when using braided line, it has no give to it and the chance of pulling the hook out of the fish increases alot. I use simple mono for my trolling. But when I do use a line with no give I use a leader that is made of mono to give me alittle edge. Just my two cents on the subject.

[Bugtussle]

The best solution to the line twist problem while trolling cranks is to run a ball bearing swivel about 3 feet up from the snap/crankbait. I have had no problem with line twist since going to this set-up.

[backtocrappie]

Spinning reels cause it, barrel swivels fix it.

[tcounty]

The clips are fine. Get you some baitcaster and you'll set those spiners on fire. I use the same clips and don't have a problem with mono or braided.