Need some Help Understanding the difference Lund/G3 (Please)

[skiptomylu]

I have looked at these boat until my head is about to burst.

They are really close in every way, except dry hull weight. Now the Lund is .080+.080 double plated hull and the G3 is .100 +.100 and the difference in dry hull weight is really large and I am not sure it can all be explained by the Hull thickness.

Forgot the size...

Lund....1080# 17' with a 91.5 beam
G3 172C....1510# 17'2" with a 92" beam

Both have sides 37"

Can someone here shed any light on me about this? If the weight difference was not so much it wouldn't bother me.


Would the G3 be a better ride since it is heavier?

Anything else that may help me please add it in.

[joejv4]

For me, heavier is only better if you're fishing water that gets pretty rough - more stable. Other than that, lighter is better - especially if you have to trailer it any distance.

When "Someday" comes and I go boat shopping, here's the checklist I've got so far - I'll probably add to it between now and then:

Which one is laid out best to fit your fishing methods? Fishing decks high or low?
Motor size rating?
I/O vs Outboard?
Storage space for gear?
Flat bottom, or V hull?
Ability to walk from bow to stern and back without climbing over anything.
Included accessories (TM, Fish finder, AM/FM CD, under seat cooler, live well, bait well, etc) If I'm buying a new boat, I want it ready to fish without having to piece together all the accessories - the way I procrastinate, it could be years before I have everything.
Value (price vs what you get)

Just some things to maybe help point you at one or the other.

[skiptomylu]

For me, heavier is only better if you're fishing water that gets pretty rough - more stable. Other than that, lighter is better - especially if you have to trailer it any distance.

When "Someday" comes and I go boat shopping, here's the checklist I've got so far - I'll probably add to it between now and then:

Which one is laid out best to fit your fishing methods? Fishing decks high or low?
Motor size rating?
I/O vs Outboard?
Storage space for gear?
Flat bottom, or V hull?
Ability to walk from bow to stern and back without climbing over anything.
Included accessories (TM, Fish finder, AM/FM CD, under seat cooler, live well, bait well, etc) If I'm buying a new boat, I want it ready to fish without having to piece together all the accessories - the way I procrastinate, it could be years before I have everything.
Value (price vs what you get)

Just some things to maybe help point you at one or the other.

Interesting, but this lake can get very rough and is really full of tree stumps in all depths of water so I am thinking maybe the extra thickness in aluminum may help one day. If you can imagine a National Forrest that was flooded this is what we have here. Many have broken off below the water line when full, but they are down there lurking all the time.

I don't know how much speed it will cost me, but I would think not more than a few MPH which should be OK. However I like top speed to be as high as possible so when I run 3/4 throttle it's still fast enough.

Both are laid out very well and both have their winning qualities. Love the extra bait well on the Lund and the G3 I love the rod box in the floor. The Lund I like having the batteries in the floor forward of the gas tank which is in the mid floor on both.

Both have a good deal of room to move around. Both have 115 4 Stroke EFI Outboard motors and both very good engines. I think the Lund is rated for a 125 and the G3 is 115.

Towing is not an issue as I live on the lake I fish. I have my own electronics so both will have the same front sonar and console sonar/GPS unit. Both have 2 live wells, but the Lund has a bait well that I probably can only use in the spring and fall/winter. The summer here is just too hot to pump in lake water and keep you bait alive and actually the only time I use minnows at all is in the summer at night.

Both have SS prop and both have pretty good amount of storage, but the G3 has a much larger rod box.

Decisions, decisions? Very similar warranties. Cost is almost identical.

[backtocrappie]

I don't how your physically feeling these days Skip but I personaly am looking at the lightest boats made.

[joejv4]

I'm thinking you might need a shiny new quarter to help you decide

[skunked_again]

IMHO, I'll take .100 thickness over .080. I believe you're already familiar with G3 quality and obviously you weren't dissapointed or you wouldn't be looking at them again. Lund makes a fine boat and they have exceptional resale value but I don't think that matters as much in your region where people are as likely to know the G3 name as well as the Lund name. I personally have a 1999 Eagle 175 (it's actually branded as an SX17 Skeeter) and I've been very satisfied with it. Hope this helps.

[minnowsoaker]

If it was me in conditions you described I'd go with the thickest hull possible, .100 min.
May want to look at what BFC Marine in Springfield La has to offer also. They will build pretty much whatever you want as far as length, width, hull and layout. They also make hulls .125 thick.

[J White]

[QUOTE=skiptomylu]I have looked at these boat until my head is about to burst.
QUOTE]


Man, I know that feeling! I'm so awfull to be around when I'm making a
decision like that, friends and family say I can't trade boats again for a
LOOOONG time :D

It's frustrating to be looking for/at a style of boat that there aren't a bunch
of around your area, ain't it?

I've really got hacked off at a couple of local dealers in the past too-
Ranger dealer told me 12 years ago I "didn't need" a Fisherman series,
now that's what a lot of the big-water crappie guys are using...
he tried to push an entry level bass rig off on me.
G-3 wasn't much more help, told me they could order one if I put up the $$$.
Can't really blame them tho, for not wanting to be stuck with a deep V if
I didn't buy it. By any chance, can you compare weights of the two models
on somethng like Yamaha's performance reports? You don't even have to
want a Yammy, but they give you rigged, water-ready weights.
I think some of the published dry weights are figured on funny calculators -
I know the bass boat guys play that game, wanting to say how light their
boat is.

[Jerry Hancock]

Just because the boat is heavier, does not mean it is stronger built. Quality of material/construction will determine strength. Lund use I beam stringers and doesn't double plate all the way back. That is just added weight and does nothing for strength. You never heart of problems with Lund's hull. They have been building deep V boats since 1948 and dominates that market.

Even in Texas, the resale value of the Lund will be higher. I could sell every used Lund I could get my hands on in Texas.

The IPS hull gives you much better performance than a regular deep V hull. Lund's will perform much better with less motor. The IPS hull gives you a higher, drier ride with true tracking. You can jump right up on plane. I have a 18' Alumacraft with a 130 honda and it is a dog. With 4 people in the boat it takes awhile to plane out. I've ran many 18' Lunds and they jump right on plane.
Take a ride in both boats before you decide.

[skiptomylu]

[QUOTE=J White]

I have looked at these boat until my head is about to burst.
QUOTE]


Man, I know that feeling! I'm so awfull to be around when I'm making a
decision like that, friends and family say I can't trade boats again for a
LOOOONG time :D

It's frustrating to be looking for/at a style of boat that there aren't a bunch
of around your area, ain't it?

I've really got hacked off at a couple of local dealers in the past too-
Ranger dealer told me 12 years ago I "didn't need" a Fisherman series,
now that's what a lot of the big-water crappie guys are using...
he tried to push an entry level bass rig off on me.
G-3 wasn't much more help, told me they could order one if I put up the $$$.
Can't really blame them tho, for not wanting to be stuck with a deep V if
I didn't buy it. By any chance, can you compare weights of the two models
on something like Yamaha's performance reports? You don't even have to
want a Yammy, but they give you rigged, water-ready weights.
I think some of the published dry weights are figured on funny calculators -
I know the bass boat guys play that game, wanting to say how light their
boat is.

Thank You! I am glad someone understands my dilemma. I have never owned one of this style and if I wanted a Bass Boat it would be easy.

However the more I learn about the Lund the more I want it, but then I have to sell my boat my self which may not be all that bad anyway since I have a month before I can get a G3. The Lund is ready and waiting unless I want the 1800 Crappie Edition and I am not sure I don't.

I have learned the Lund uses less thickness of hull material and only double plate the front half of the boat where G3 does the entire thing. However the Lund has some special IPS 2 hull. It is not just a deep V like most manufacturers build. It allows for quicker planing, better control, better tracking, higher drier ride.

So I am about to blow a gasket over this because I have traded boats 3 times or after I get this will have had 4 different style boats since 2004 and that is totally crazy!

This is probably the last boat I will ever buy and I want to get it right!

Skip