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Thread: Second Attempt w/Side TM Mount

  1. #1
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    Default Second Attempt w/Side TM Mount


    By now I'm pretty sure most of you are aware of my intense interest in side pulling. I made a specially designed "second" transom on the side of Walt's boat this spring, for use with the TM used side pulling. Worked out great! (Posts in the New England Section here on Crappie.com)

    So, now that the big res. is closed for the season, we are focusing on the small 12' rig for fishing local lakes & ponds. And again, our focus is going to be on side pulling to expand/extend our trolling path. Yesterday we made a trial run to try to determine the best location along the starboard gunnel for the motor. We just used blocks of wood and hand tightening the TM clamps to them, figuring this would allow us to change position without too much trouble.

    Didn't work out too well. Lost one of the blocks of wood on the trip to the launch! I didn't figure on the degree of flex on the boat's side wall. I should have kept the TM in the truck for travel with those conditions. But hey.....you live and you learn. Anyway, the actual side pulling worked out great. Fish didn't co-operate much, but we did catch & release 9 small crappie and one bluegill. Nothing to write home about.

    So.....today I set my mind (and my pocket book) to obtaining the proper ingredients and tools to install a "proper" TM transom on the side of this small boat. The main problem to overcome was the flexibility of the gunnels of the aluminum boat.

    I had to stiffen that up first & foremost. Used two 14" pieces of left over deck wood, which was about 7" x 1". Positioning one on each side of the boat's hull, up as close up to the gunnel as possible, I clamped the pieces in place. Then I went to the hardware store and bought five, 3"L x 1/4" O.D. stainless steel bolts, with flat washers and lock washers and nuts. (Expensive!)

    Drilled 5 holes through both pieces of wood and the aluminum hull, then attached the hardware. It's a pretty sturdy arrangement at this point. But how can I be sure it will not create a problem? Take it for a ride over a not-so-even section of road is how! I did just that. And she held up just fine.

    When I got home I re-tightened the nuts - this may become a problem. The stainless washers do not come in large O.D. sizes, so the washer tend to bite into the wood more than I'd like. I'll have to go online and see if I can find something more suited for this application?

    Anyway, I figured if any of you would be interested in creating a side pulling TM mount for your boat, I have two designs; one that we used all this season without a problem and this new one on a smaller aluminum V-hull. I've previously posted on the former with pictures. Here's some shots of the new mount which is much less complicated, yet much more challenging to create - due to the frail nature of the side hull of the boat. Time will tell if it proves as reliable as the one on Walt's rig. Here are some pictures of this new creation:

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    Now my current plan is to leave these deck boards as is, until they get "seasoned" outside for a couple of weeks. When we finally put the boat away for the season (hopefully not any time soon!) I'll remove the boards and coat them with deck stain/protectant, for next season.

    I also mounted the battery box in the middle of the second seat. This proved to be the best point of balance for travel on the water. Not great if a 3rd. party needs to be seated, but usually it's only Walt & I that go out these days.

    Please, if you have any suggestions as to how to improve this set-up for our side pulling purpose, let us know! Thanks for listening folks!
    "A voyage in search of knowledge need never abandon the spirit of adventure."
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  2. #2
    Cray's Avatar
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    Go to a Home Depot, lowes, me arcs or farm supply store. They should have sections of thin aluminum strips in different widths and lengths. Get the amount you need and drill matching holes put them on both sides between bolt head and nut and the wood then use a lock washer. That way nuts and bolts won't bite into and collapse wood.
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    I’m going to try to describe an idea that went through my head as I read this. If the flex of the boat becomes an issue, find a couple up pieces of 1/4” x 2” x 12” aluminum. Relieve where these would pass between the inside wood and hull. Reseal the wood, drill the strips. Check that they don’t need a slight bend to conform to the hull. Drill the holes that will match the already drilled wood. Before installing, liberally coat the back of the aluminum with silicone and bolt everything back together. This will create 2 stiffeners to take the flex out of the hull with no holes lower than you have now. Hope I made that understandable?
    Creativity is just intelligence fooling around
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cray View Post
    Go to a Home Depot, lowes, me arcs or farm supply store. They should have sections of thin aluminum strips in different widths and lengths. Get the amount you need and drill matching holes put them on both sides between bolt head and nut and the wood then use a lock washer. That way nuts and bolts won't bite into and collapse wood.
    that will work one other option would be get a section of the aluminum flat bar that has the holes already in it and place it between the wood and washer once you tighten down the lock nuts the digging in the wood problem should be solved.

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    Here is a link where you can buy a mount and bracket for side pulling. It allows the motor to come up lay over and swivel to lay inside the boat parallel with the side of the boat. Buy MULTI FUNCTION TROLLING MOTOR BRACKET MOUNT EXCLUSIVE DESIGN NEW - FREE SHIPPING motorcycle in Belmont, Mississippi, US, for US $200.00

    BRAND NEW
    EXCLUSIVE DESIGN
    THE EDGE
    MULTI-FUNCTION TROLLING MOTOR BRACKET
    PERFECT FOR SIDE PULLERS AND ALL ELECTRIC LAKE USE
    FOR YOUR RECREATIONAL FISHMAN AS WELL AS THE PRO'S....
    FEATURES:
    · Designed for Side Pullers or All Electric Lakes
    · Easy Up and Swivel—Swivels Around to Lay Sideways or in Boat
    · Includes 1” and 1 ¼” Bushings to Accommodate Most Size Shafts/Motors
    · Easy Open Door for Removing Trolling Motor
    I have spent most my life fishing........the rest I wasted.
    PROUD MEMBER OF TEAM GEEZER
    PICO Lures Field Rep

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    Thanks for all the great suggestions. I like the aluminum bar idea. Will definitely look into that. The manufactured side pulling transom is something I looked at earlier this year, but with everything else going on here at home, the cost just isn't in the budget. Will take another look-see come spring though. Wish us luck! Walt & I will be taking her out on a trial cruise later this week. Hopefully we'll get some fishing in as well.
    "A voyage in search of knowledge need never abandon the spirit of adventure."
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    Crestliner, try this link for fender washers in stainless steel:

    McMaster-Carr

    Hint: they will also have the flat aluminum stock you're thinking about utilizing.

    edit: that link was supposed to take you directly to the stainless "oversize washers", known as fender washers.
    Yes, I was talking to myself; sometimes even I have to ask for expert advice.

  8. #8
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    THANKS 6poundtest! Never thought about McMaster-Carr! Use to use them as a major supplier back when I worked in manufacturing. Will certainly give them a serious look.
    "A voyage in search of knowledge need never abandon the spirit of adventure."

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