if yo have the room, add a second blue battery in parallel, or go to 2 6 volt deep cycle batteries in series to feed that stuff.
While my boat is the shop having the transom rebuilt , I have been trying to overcome a couple of power opportunities on the boat and I'm looking for some thoughts. I have a 3 bank charger that works on wet and agm batteries.
So, here is my battery supply and what is hooked to each:
Trolling batteries: 25 volt system, has a 80lb terrova hooked up to (2) 1275 trojan golf cart batteries.
Cranking battery: 100% dedicated to my 225hp optimax. This battery is a group 27 interstate approximately 1.5 yrs old.
Electronics and accessories: I have a HDS 9 & HDS 12 Touch units, point 1, and all the boats accessories running on this one battery. Battery is a optima blue top.
What could I do differently to have all day power for my electronics, and accessories which my main concern is the aeration pump which is on a 3 minute timer switch.
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if yo have the room, add a second blue battery in parallel, or go to 2 6 volt deep cycle batteries in series to feed that stuff.
I would have that blue top checked. You shouldn't be running out of power. I have always run everything off the starting battery and never ran out of power.
Fair Winds and Following Seas
Bill H. PTC USN Ret
Chesapeake, Va
Same here. Run all electronics off cranking battery. 31 series North Star agm
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Your Opti requires 1000 marine cranking amps or 750 cold cranking amps. Don't think your 27 meets either of those requirements. Yes it cranks it and has been cranking probably only because your not running anything else off it. Sam's sells one of the few that will meet those requirements. Duracell marine group 31DTMAGM. 1000 marine and 800 CCA. You might also check American battery group 31's to see how much they have. I would replace the cranking battery, run the Optima until it crashed then replace with a group 31 deep cycle. I am not a fan of AGM batteries in a deep cycle set up. Some guys love them but they are not really designed to be deep cycled and recharged on a regular basis even though they are promoted that way. Another thing I have found, the perform at full capacity until they are dead. Not a good thing. Then one day it will work but when you put charger on it is dead not to be revived. Had 2 of the monster yellow top deep cycles do that to me.
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Charlie Weaver USN/ENC 1965-1979
Here is another question, how would you hook up the onboard charger leads? It's a 3 bank charger.
Hook 2 leads to your trolling batteries and 1 to Aux battery. Alternator should keep cranking battery charged with nothing but the motor on it. They have a pretty stout alternator on them. I would maybe hook up a portable to cranking once in awhile. The best investment you and most guys could make is a decent inexpensive multi meter and learn how to use it. Great for checking battery voltage at the battery, checking wiring issues, light problems and can use around the house also.
Proud Member of Team Geezer
Charlie Weaver USN/ENC 1965-1979
This is how I have it set up now. I will be looking into my blue top because I already had questions about it, should have my receipt for it.
Thanks for ideas guys thus far.
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I've never needed a battery designated to accessories only. Have them hooked to my crank battery (group 31) and have even forgot to charge for a day or two before I bought my 3 bank charger. Less batteries=less weight in boat=more speed
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"bandchaser" I have my rig setup in the same manner (2) 31 series trolling 24V moved to front storage area (1) 27 series cranking only (1) 31 series accessories only. I have a 3 bank charger up front with the trolling batteries. The third battery charger lead was extended to charge accessory battery and cranking battery in rear. I have a quick disconnect plug attached to those batteries, this enables me to keep accessory battery charged simultaneously along with trolling batteries. The cranking battery is connected to this lead occasionally.
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