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dpfromRockHill
01-14-2005, 09:40 PM
first time using Tite Lok products

the 6" track has 3 holes for mounting to the deck (carpeted bass boat), but no hardware (holders are the new 5841)

what kind of screws do i need for this job, and any tips or advice are welcome

would like to hear some opinions before i mount to avoid messing up..thank you
dp

Kokanee King
01-14-2005, 09:43 PM
What is the material that you are ataching it to. alum. or ply wood or fiberglass

dpfromRockHill
01-14-2005, 09:59 PM
it is a composite deck (Triton) covered with carpet

dpfromRockHill
01-14-2005, 10:00 PM
i know for sure its not plywood..i guess some sort of fiberglass composite

Ranger375
01-14-2005, 10:36 PM
Used #16 x 1 1/4" Stainless sheet metal screws to mount the bases for my "Driftmaster" rod holders. Cartpeted fiberglass. I need to replace some of the screws and having dificulty finding them locally. You could probalbly use a smaller diameter like a #14 but still stick with the length if your base is what I think it is. Mine were there when I purchased boat used.

Hope that helps

dpfromRockHill
01-14-2005, 10:43 PM
thx Ranger 375..just curious why some need replacing?

Moose1am
01-14-2005, 11:28 PM
If I were mounting one of those on a boat I would see if there was any way to reach the underside of the mounting (Though a compartment ). If I could reach the spot were screws would come though the deck and attach a washer with a lock nut then I would drill holes where I wanted to mount the base and then use 1/4" OD bolts that were long enough to go though the base and deck and come out where I could attach the nuts and washers. That is how I mounted things on my aluminum boat's upper deck. But I have a storage compartment under the deck and I can get myself inside the storage compartment to attach nuts to the end of the bolts. My deck is constructed of marine grade plywood and covered with very thin aluminum sheetings and then it's carpeted. Look at your bass seats and see how those pedistals are mounted if you have one of those seats. That may give you an idea on how long and what type screws or bolts to use.


Not sure what kind of boat you have so you may not be able to use bolts and may have to use screws instead.

If you are going into fiberglass and not hitting any metal other than the base itself then you may want to use those stainless screws with a head that can fill the holes in the base unit and be flush with the base unit. Not sure what type of material the Tit loc bases are made from. Aluminum maybe. If they are aluminum then you could use aluminum screws and not have to worry about them causing an electric current like you would if there were two dissimular metals touching. But the aluminum screws may not be strong enough so you may still want to go with stainless Steel Screws.

Now this is how I do my mountings but that is just how I do things. You may find that everyone else has a different way to do this.



first time using Tite Lok products

the 6" track has 3 holes for mounting to the deck (carpeted bass boat), but no hardware (holders are the new 5841)

what kind of screws do i need for this job, and any tips or advice are welcome

would like to hear some opinions before i mount to avoid messing up..thank you
dp

dpfromRockHill
01-14-2005, 11:50 PM
moose, awesome description...i dont think i can drill all the way thru..will the stainless screws cause an electric problem possibly?

and yes its aluminum..a big t-bar (4 rod holders) that slides into a 6" aluminum plate

ncnat
01-15-2005, 12:18 AM
dp, that's nothing for Moose, wait till he get's started on some thing he knows about. LOL. (I had to do that Moose)

Kokanee King
01-15-2005, 02:26 AM
I would simply use stanles steel sheet metal screws. They will be more thatn you need. Trust me. Hold stron and last long.

Ranger375
01-15-2005, 07:58 AM
Replacing screws because I'm moving location on two of the four that were in boat when I bought it. I did not drill a big enough pilot hole and stripped the phillips heads out.

The thing about using bolts is that if you later decide to move location like I have you'll have a 1/4" hole there. Where as with sheet metal screw you can just fluff up the carpet and never know anything was there.

dpfromRockHill
01-15-2005, 08:47 AM
thanks guys

dpfromRockHill
01-16-2005, 12:35 AM
update..i bought some 1 and 1/2 inch size 14 stainless sheet metal screws

how big of a pilot hole do i need? (carpeted fiberglass)..thx for any help
dp

Jerry Blake
01-16-2005, 04:11 AM
Pilot hole should be the size of the screw shank without the threads. Then the screw will only be cutting threads and not trying to expand the hole, which can cause the fiberglass to chip out around the hole.

Ranger375
01-16-2005, 06:53 AM
A #14 sheet metal screw the diameter (outside diameter of threads) is 1/4 inch. So use a bit smaller than the 1/4 inch. For wood screw I know the pilot hole size is 11/64 and would think should be about the same for sheet metal screw.

Problem I had was I did not have the right size drill and tried using a smaller bit and stripped out the phillips head.

dpfromRockHill
01-16-2005, 09:31 AM
you guys are helping me tremendously and i appreciate it..im working up the courage to start drilling..will let you guys know once i have..thanks again very much

Jerry Blake
01-16-2005, 09:55 AM
Hey DP:

Spend as much time as necessary to make sure you are placing your rod holders where you will be happy with them - convenient but not in the way - may be some trade-off there.

I have changed up a lot of stuff on my boat since I got it and moved some things around several times to get everything “right”. Now Fatboy is buying it so I have to start all over with my next boat. I’ll set it up a lot like my current boat but there are still a few things like the livewell and bait tank locations that I want to change – still trying to work that out.

Nice thing about fiberglass is you can easily repair it if you ever need to. If you’re concerned about appearance though you want to avoid repairs as much as possible.

whizkids
01-16-2005, 02:26 PM
I have mounted the same system on my fiberglass boat. They came with stainless steel screws. Make sure the screws you purchased will flush mount on the 6" plate. It should have countersunk holes. Be very ceratin that the rod holder stand and bar will be where you want it.
I also agree with the poster that suggested bolts. If you can het under to deck to bolt it down it will be more stable. Carpet as a base will allow some play and your stand is about 18" high with a 24" bar. A bolted will procived better stability. Mine is screwed down, just as you are doing. Bolting it down is on my project list.
Were you at Ebenezzer yesterday?

Moose1am
01-16-2005, 02:37 PM
I am not aware of electrolis concerns when using stainless steel. But I just don't really know. I have used stainless steel bolts and nuts on my aluminum boat with no visible corresion. So Stainless Steel should be a good choice as it's much stronger than aluminum bolts.



moose, awesome description...i dont think i can drill all the way thru..will the stainless screws cause an electric problem possibly?

and yes its aluminum..a big t-bar (4 rod holders) that slides into a 6" aluminum plate

dpfromRockHill
01-16-2005, 10:19 PM
ok i checked and i can get to the underside of the deck..if i decide to drill all the way and bolt it on, should i be thinking about big washers or some sort of plate to go underneath?

not real handy here, so specifics of hardware would be great..i saw earlier someone post OD bolts, which i dont know what that is.

also is there a type of bolt that will fill the hole on this thing, and still allow the t-bar to slide into the track?..once again thx for any help

oh, and sadley, no i did not make it to the lake this weekend..my autopilot is in the shop for the 8th day:(

Moose1am
01-16-2005, 10:50 PM
Use a big washer if you can. It will help spread the load out and work better.

They make some nuts that have nylon inside the nut. They will lock onto the bolt when you screw them on. You can get them off but they will not come loose easily when your boat vibrates while going down the lake. Either that or use a lock washer in combination with the larger flat washer. I would recommend using a Flat washer about the size of a nickle or larger Quarter if you can find them. You may need someone to help you if you do this as somoene will have to be on the boat deck holding the bolt head with a screwdriver while you tighten the nuts on the bolts underneath the decking.

Just make sure that you have the setup where you want it to be before you go drilling too many holes in the deck. Think about where you wan't things to be and how you will move when you are fishing and catch a fish. Don't want to be banging your knee caps on any rod holders when you get up to get a new minnow or take a fish off the hook and throw them into the live well.




ok i checked and i can get to the underside of the deck..if i decide to drill all the way and bolt it on, should i be thinking about big washers or some sort of plate to go underneath?

not real handy here, so specifics of hardware would be great..i saw earlier someone post OD bolts, which i dont know what that is.

also is there a type of bolt that will fill the hole on this thing, and still allow the t-bar to slide into the track?..once again thx for any help

oh, and sadley, no i did not make it to the lake this weekend..my autopilot is in the shop for the 8th day:(

dpfromRockHill
01-16-2005, 11:17 PM
from looking under the deck just now..i see kind of a spray on foam type substance..thicker in some places than others..maybe 2-4 inches of it where i want to mount..is this normal?

dpfromRockHill
01-17-2005, 08:35 AM
anybody dealt with this foam type substance before?

Moose1am
01-17-2005, 03:01 PM
First and best advice is to call the boat manufacture and ask them about this project. They know the boat best. This is the best advice I can give to you right now.


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Well since no one is answering I will take a GUESS. I would guess that it's a spray on floatation type foam that is glued to the bottom of your fiberglass deck. You said it's about 2" thick. Might need a longer bolt to go all the way though the foam unless you cut out the foam so that you can see the bottom of your decking. If you still plan on using bolts and washers then you may have to remove about a 1" diameter circle of that foam where the bolt comes thought the decking. A small amount of foam can be removed without effecting the purpose of that foam. An exacto knife or even a circle cutter could be used to remove the 2" thick x 1" diameter piece of foam. Do this for each hole where the bolt comes though the decking. Then you can snug the washer and nuts right up against the fiberglass decking.

Or as an alternative to this you could maybe make a piece of metal about the same size as the Tite Loc thing that you are installing. Some aluminum that is about 1/4" thick and with the same lengh and width as the titelok thing. Drill holes in this piece that match the holes in the tike lok thing. This new piece could then be place on the foam and then the washers and nuts could be put on the end of the bolt after they pass though the titeloc thing the fibergalss decking and the foam and then though the new piece. If you are using about 3 or 4 bolts to hold the titelok thing on your boat that may be enough bolts to pull the new piece of metal up against the bottom of the foam. This may work and then you would not have to cut the foam. It would depends on how compressable the foam is. If it's compressable you may not be able to get the titelok thing mounted tight enough.
They make an expandable foam that comes in a compressed air can. You spray this on or in something as a liquid under pressure and when the liquid is exposed to the air it expanded and hardens. This mayb be what they sprayed on your boat under the decking.



anybody dealt with this foam type substance before?