Spider Rigs -Variations and different types

[OzarkAngler]

If there is not a single thread dedicated to spider rigs and a sticky in this forum, there should be.

How do you tie your spider rig and why?
Do you use seedless jig heads?
Do you use barrel swivels or not?
Do you use barrel weights? If so, what size?


A good list of types and sizes with variations and when to use them and why they work better would be an awesome tool to share. I would be glad to consolidate it all in this post and edit it later or if the moderator will I'll be glad to help out.

[kickingback]

Here is what you are looking for. Good luck!
http://www.crappie.com/crappie/main-...ups-beginners/

[OzarkAngler]

That’s kind of the format I was looking for but I'm talking specific to spider rigging only. Not for knot tying and drop shots. Specific to spider rigs and that thread only included 3 basic types. I know there are many more versions as the one I am currently doing is not shown in the mix. Close but not quite the same.

There must be at least 10-15 variations on how people rig their lines for spider rigging. Some may not want to share their setup which is fine. The one's that do I certainly welcome.

I currently have a foam rubber pool noodle that I cut about 16" long that has pre-tied and rigged spider rigs for replacements. After I spent a long time tying up some for the first time (I was on the water), I said never again. Too much time wasted trying to right up a fresh spider rig when you can un-roll it and tie on and go. I spent a Saturday watching World Fishing Network and tying spider rigs. Worth the time invested. Just thought I'd throw that out there for anyone not pre-rigging their lines for spider rigs.

[kickingback]

I use one of the rigs on that post all the time. I have the three way swivel with a short 12" leader to first jig and the second line from three way swivel goes to 1/4 oz drop shot and swivel and then the jig all in about 18" of length. I troll with one rig on each of four poles and troll at .2 to 2 mph depending on the bite. Sometimes I troll over brush other times in open water. Just set the depth and go. That's my go to rig.
I also tie one jig with drop loop about 12" up from tag end then tie another jig on tag end and have two jigs usually 1/8 each and troll the same as first rig. Easier setup but more tangles I found.
Hope that helps a bit.

[OzarkAngler]

Yep it does. It's what I have found out as well. I was just suggesting a simple post full of various setups and adjustments. I know some folks tinker with rigs and find things that work much better. It's those rig adjustments that are sometimes guarded secrets.

[CrappiePappy]

I haven't gotten into "true" spider rigging, but I'm working on it.

My intention is to have a clip or swivel on my main line, with a 1/2oz barrel sinker on the line above it. To that clip/swivel I will put a 18" leader line of slightly less lb test than the main line, and a jig head on the end. On the jig head I can then place a plastic body, a minnow, or both as the situation dictates.
And yes ... I do intend to have pre-tied leader/jig rigs wound around a pool noodle ... for easy access & quick changes.

I have successfully used weedless jig heads when using my 10' rods in my rod holders and drifting/slow trolling around cover ... but, don't intend to use them on my newly acquired 14' rods. But, I may "experiment" using them alongside the plain jig heads ... just to see if they work as well.

My intention to rig my spider rig rods this way, is simply because it's the way most of the spider rigging friends I have, do it ... and they're quite successful with it.

... cp

[OzarkAngler]

I too am just starting out with it. I have 4 12ft rods on the boat currently. That's about all the patience I have by myself. Trying to keep up with all of the hardware/gear and such by yourself can be overwhelming to 3-4 starting off I hear is the way to go. Figuring it out slowly over time and learning tips that can only be learned through experience. Then you can add more rods later if needed. I also read that 14-16ft rods is best especially in shallow water. Fish are less spooky in shallow water if they are further away from the boat. So you should see success on your new rods.

[Cray]

I will try to explain mine. I tie a number 2 Duolock snap on main line. Take a spool of 12 lb florocarbon, run line through a # 10 barrel swivel, pull about a ft of line through the swivel. Tie a clinch knot ( not the improved clinch, just a clinch ) tie a #2 duo lock on that first dropper at 8 in. Then pull off 20-22 inches of line. Slip on a 1/2 oz egg sinker then a plastic bead then a #10 swivel. Then I pull off a ft or more of line, tie on a #2 Duolock snap, then tie onto bottom swivel with it being 8-10 in long. That way I don't have to change rigs every time I want to change a hook,jig,or gnat. I normally fish a ponyhead on bottom and a gnat on top hook.
I store my extra Riggs on these.

Welcome to TJ's Tackle
I tried noodles and pipe insulation. Leaves them crinkled and take up much more storage space. Plus they tend to loosen over time and tangle real bad.. Those rig holders hold 2 each and box will hold 10-12 rig's complete.

[Yaker]

Not to hijack this thread,but one lake I fish is largely flooded timber,I plan on spider rigging it this year,what would be the best setup to prevent the most snags.There is a main channel,but since this lake is a damed river,the channel is snaky at best.

[Cray]

Not to hijack this thread,but one lake I fish is largely flooded timber,I plan on spider rigging it this year,what would be the best setup to prevent the most snags.There is a main channel,but since this lake is a damed river,the channel is snaky at best.

Main line heavier than leader. Slide egg sinker on main,tie swivel then leader about a foot. Use snap to change jig or hook. Just one to pole and use weedless jig if you can get them.