I would say that the auto setting would be the factory default settings. These are settings guaranteed to work from the factory (just add power, transducer and water). The manufacturers know, from years of experience, combined with particular unit characteristics, where to set the “it’s gonna work” parameters. These parameters could include things such as chart speed, sensitivity, depth, etc. These settings are gonna work 99% of the time. I use auto mode a lot, especially when I am on the move. Only time I ever get out of auto mode is if I want to really look at a point of interest. At that time I screw around with the knobs (sensitivity, chart speed, ping rate, surface clutter, etc.). If I am vertical, I usually turn the fish ID on. It cleans up the screen a lot. If I am slow trolling, I am usually following my gps along a preplanned track or along a certain depth of a contour and not really paying detailed attention to the sonar. Everybody does it different. Just remember, if you are screwing around with knobs, you ain’t fishing.
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