Thanks Thanks:  0
HaHa HaHa:  0
Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: Only You Can Prevent Bobber Loss

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Washington, DC
    Posts
    8
    Post Thanks / Like

    Angry Only You Can Prevent Bobber Loss


    I went to the lake by my house on my 4th fishing trip (just picked up the hobby) and noticed that there were wooden boxes/boards sticking out of the water. I'm guessing these were put there on purpose to attract fish to the submerged structure. In 30 minutes, myself and another guy about 100 yards from me caught 5 crappie each by casting about a foot from these structures.

    Well needless to say, catching 5 10-12 inch Crappie in 30 minutes in a lake where people complain about never catching fish ever got me excited about fishing. So I went back there. Three days in a row...

    Those 3 days were a disaster. Casting near those structures led to snag after snag. Without fish biting instantly (like the day I caught them) the bobber would float for a few seconds and then get stuck. Then, my line would break and the bobbers would float away. I ended up salvaging a few but I probably lost at least 4-6 of them.

    So my question is, how can I stop losing so many bobbers, while still being a moron and casting within a foot of those structures?

    I was under the impression that using a swivel below the bobber would be the best solution. Can anyone expand on this or give me any other tips for salvaging floats or rigging my line with a swivel?

    Thanks!
    "SHUT UP AND FISH!" - Wisdom Cube

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Milky Way Galaxy
    Posts
    9,404
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by GetDatFish View Post
    I was under the impression that using a swivel below the bobber would be the best solution. Can anyone expand on this or give me any other tips for salvaging floats or rigging my line with a swivel?
    Just use a lighter line between the swivel and the hook/jig. Then, if the line breaks, all you lose is what's below the swivel. For example, if you're using a 6# main line, use 4# below the swivel.

    I do this on all my float rigs and never lose a float. Also, although the swivel will work, but I prefer to have as little metal down the line as possible. Therefore, I just use a "loop to loop" connection between main line and leader.
    Likes Rooster Tail LIKED above post

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Ohio , Berlin Center
    Posts
    849
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    I use a similar method to deathbeforedisco. Except I use power pro line as my main line and use 10# flourocarbon line as my leader. The 10# flouro will often staighten lite wire hooks and you get everything back. If flouro does break the swivel at then of the power pro saves the slip bobber.

    Prior to the super braids I used to lose apprx a gross of slip bobbers a year. Now I lose maybe 3 a year mostly due to my big feet stepping on them. Like you I like to fish close to cover as that is where the fish seem to hang. I also pinch on the split shot on the power pro above the swivel. Split shot weakens the mono but does not appear to bother the power pro .

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Northern Illinois
    Posts
    3,889
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    To hays47
    Crappie Wall Hanger not to hijack thread but I rig similar to you & like it except I have trouble with my slip bobber knot sliding on the braid-using sufix 632 also slipped on pp when I used it --question how do you keep your bobber stop from sliding I am using the pretied pink bobber knots that you buy in bags. Thanks
    I don't suffer from insanity; I enjoy every minute of it.....

    PROUD MEMBER OF TEAM GEEZER

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    TX
    Posts
    2,941
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    I use 20lb braid which is as thin as 6 lb mono and tie directly to hook through slip bobber. If I get stuck I pull steadily but slowly and the hook straightens out or comes undone easily without the line breaking. Problem solved.
    USAF Retired and fishing!


  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    1,153
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    I use a second bobber stop which goes below the bobber usually about a foot above the bait.

    To combat slippage of bobber stops, I use a bit of pro grip bowlers rosin. just a dab on the barrel over which the bober stop is assembled, then slide Bobber stop over it and let the stop absorb the rosin, then snug bobber stop on line and into position. Never had a problem until I started using braid. Tried a lot of things, bowstring wax, honey (it works for a while) line dressing, dental floss as a stopp for the bobber stop, you can also use a rubber bobber stop then put one of the thread stops over the rubber and it works very well

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Leslie
    Posts
    4,396
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    I very rarely use a slip bobber. I use a longer steelhead rod so I can cast a standard bobber that is set at 10 or 12 feet with minimum effort. On a normal stick bobber, I remove the spring (bobber stop) as it tends to fray the line. I replace the bobber stop with a piece of surgical tubing slipped over the stick. Simply roll it up, hook on your line and rolle it down. You can slip it up and down to change depth without worrying about fray.

    For your question/issue. I would do two things (both mentioned above). I would switch to a braided main line, slip my bobber through, I would then tie on a barrel swivel and switch from braid to florocarbon leader. Lastly, I would change to an aberdeen hook. Heave weight line will allow you to pull the hook and bend it or break the florocarbon at the barrel swivel. I would also utilize a "figure 8" bobber stop. Unlike the standard pre-tied ones, these allow you to put your line through a hole, wrap it arround the center (like a dog bone) and back through the hole. They usually allow the line to break below the stop saving the bobber above.

    Good luck
    I have OCD "Obsessive Crappie Disorder"

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    East Peoria IL.
    Posts
    4,898
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    I didn't see a mention to the type of bobber.
    I fish brush piles and submerged trees all the time. There are several tips/tricks. I use slip bobber all the time. I put a lead weight about 12"-18" above my hook. IF I break off, its usually on the hook side of the weight, saving the bobber. If your constantly getting hung up, fish shallower so your hook is above whatever is snagging your hook. I also use a two set ups.

    4 lb mono line with a #6 aberden hook. or
    6lb mono line with a #4 aberden hook.

    Most of the time, I will pull the hook straight before breaking the line. If I do break off, usually its below the weight.

    There is a method to break off, reel up as much slack as you can, grab the pole and line and pull to one side or the other. IF the hook breaks free you want it flying past you and not straight at you. Beware where the line will go, into the tree behind you will be worse than the tree in the water.
    HOI Crappie Club
    Where family and friends come to compete for a little more than bragging rights.

    Quick, someone teach me how to fish so I can win this tournament!!!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Kentucky
    Posts
    10
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    A lot of times when I fish heavy structure and deal with snags. I lower my bobber/ lift my bait to just above the structure. Crappie are always looking up for a meal. They are sight feeders. I never fish with a swivel under a cork. When I float fish I have a slip cork a 1/8 split shot and a number 6 hook or jig. Hope this help don't be afraid to get in the brush its frustrating but you can land some great fish.

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

BACK TO TOP