There is a definite difference in standard vs synthetic oils. Once you use a synthetic (good oil but,,,) please don't go back to a standard. The results can be costly, I know.
Question - does it really matter what two cycle oil you use as long as it meets TC-W3. I know some say theirs has additatives or other other things that promote longer engine life.
I am primarily talking about motors that most prople have, not some of the newer ones that may require a special oil to meet emissions standards.
There is a definite difference in standard vs synthetic oils. Once you use a synthetic (good oil but,,,) please don't go back to a standard. The results can be costly, I know.
Quit Wish'in and Let's Go Fish'in
Darryl Morris
FAMILY FISHING TRIPS GUIDE SERVICE
501-844-5418 --- [email protected]
I'm quoting TMD "I recommend you use the manufactors recommended oil." Heres his link. I've learned a ton from him.
http://www.themarinedoctor.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl
These motors are designed and tested with one or two oil configuratiuons, and developed with that factor.
When a manufactor suggest TCW3, that is a bare minimum you want to install.
I'll just bet you. If you were to put a different oil up against, say OMC, there would be a ton of difference. Now I am not a chemist or metalurgist.:D :D
I can't even spell that. My guess, as an old outboard motor user, it will cost less in the long run to use MSO. Just my guess, but it's hard to question the motor techs.
Mike
First off let me start by saying I am not a mechanic...I have spent a lot of time on bassboatcentral.com and the techs on there in my experience are top notch. Most of my info comes from them. Also I run a Johnson so BRP products are what I use. Other makes have their own lines of oil.
From all i the info I have been given the major difference in conventional and synthetic (such a BRP XD-50 which is what I use in my Johnny 150) is that conventional leaves a lot more carbon deposits on internal parts. Supposedly if left to build up on pistons, rings, valves and cylinder walls it will eventually lead to wear and less than peak performance from the lost compression and the grooves in your cylinder walls. BRP also reccomends you decarb your motor at least 1 time per year although most people don't ever do it. Easy process. Get can of BRP Engine Tuner, follow directions. You let it sit, then run the dog out of it. It'll smoke like he11 and it stinks bad but all that is the carbon deposits being burnt off your innards. I've seen the inside of 2 cycle engines...I don't want the inside of my boat motor looking like some I've seen.
With good quality synthetic oil it is not supposed to build up much if any carbon. I use XD-50 which is the lower grade BRP synthetic and its like $17 a gallon/bulk. Most dealers sell their oil in bulk, you just show up with your own jug to put it in. BRP also makes XD-100 wich is not supposed to leave ANY carbon deposits. I do know 1 thing my boat don't smoke as much with the "good" oil. And I guess you could use any TCW-3 oil but if it were me I'd decarb maybe 2x a year and maybe run some Seafoam through it. But Seafoam won't replace a decarb. $10 bucks for a can that lasts 2-3 years vs. who knows how much in damage by not doing it. I believe the major factor is not getting carbon deposits built up in your motor.
Now how many people ever decarb their motor? Or even know that its reccomended to do it?
Ya ain't holdin' your mouth right.
I'm a decarb man.:D
You are absolutely correct about the decarbing. That was also a great tip about most dealers having there brand of oil in the bulk form. It is quite a bit cheaper.
Heres an example though.
I normally use OMC oil in my Johnson 25 and it runs fine with very little smoke.
Now, a friend of mine gave me a gallon of Quicksilver oil because he sold his boat, and let me tell you, I can fog enough of a river basin to kill every mosquito there.
Is there a difference in good motor oils? Absolutely! Do they both do the same job on all motors? I don't think so.
I know when I'm finished with the Quicksilver, I'll be doing another decarb before I put my motor away this fall.
Mike
The Wife loves my Pennzoil Marine Premium Plus synthetic blend, less smell!
fiddlefarter, there is an Amsoil made for two cycle oil
injection engine, is it good or just so so.?
Also, what is BRP engine tuner? Who sells it? I already
know about Seaform.
Billy Deuce
Fried Crappie.... "The real thing".
I have a 15 hp 1978 Evinrude and all I ever use is opti 2. It is a synthetic that comes in a little plastic bag. The small bag mixes 1 gal and the large bag mixes 2-1/2 gals. This mix will run anything that requires a mix, a chainsaw that calls for 16-1. a weedeater that calls for 32-1, and outboards that require a 50-1 mix, and it DOES NOT smoke or leave an oil slick behind the boat. You can hear an rpm increase with this product also. I am not a salesman, I just believe in this oil totally. It's also nice having just 1 jug of mixed gas to keep up with. grizzly
Most people call them green onions, but they are really ---------?????
You know if you bring something up like "decarbing" you will have to walk some of us slow guys though the process. Is it as simple as adding a bottle of "this or that" to your tank at fill up? or is there other steps to go through? I have a 2002 200 hp Mercury EFI. It gets ran quite a bit, when I'm not fishing, my teenage son is wakeboarding with his buddies. what do i do?
My brother learned the hard way. He`s got a 75hp outboard 2 Years ago, this spring he a lost of power so he took it in and found out one of the pistons were shot I think it cost him around $2800 hope this helps.