On my last boat both front and back locators the transducers were epoxied to the hull with a good two part epoxy. Never had any problems but they once you do that theres no taking it off.
anyone ever glued there transducer mount to the hull? I don't want to drill in my boat so i thought about glue. If anyone has done this what type glue did you use?? Thanks
On my last boat both front and back locators the transducers were epoxied to the hull with a good two part epoxy. Never had any problems but they once you do that theres no taking it off.
Fish now, you'll be dead for a long time
Did One Years Ago--used Some Quick Setting Expoxy
Be Careful To Get All The Air Bubbles Out
Glued In A Short 3" Pvc Ring And Filled It With Water And Set The Transducer In It To Try It Out ---to See If It Would Work ---
If Its A Metal Boat With Rivets In The Bottom Prolly Won,t Work At High Speeds
PROUD MEMBER OF TEAM GEEZER
I have a aluminum boat. I was thinking about the gorilla glue. It says its water proff. Do ya'll think epoxy would be better?
Hey Lipripper:Originally Posted by Lipripper
I prefer a "Shoot-Through-The-Hull" transducer setup over a TM mounted transducer. I've done several on fiberglass hulls and they've worked well. You probably would be better off with a puck type or "Angled Puck" than a skimmer transom mount type.
Humminbird's "Shoot-Through" transducers come with epoxy but any good epoxy will work to secure them to the hull. The transducer has to be mounted directly to the hull below water level of course. You need an accessible area where the fiberglass isn't real thick and there can't be any air bubbles in the fiberglass or in the epoxy under the transducer. You'll want to thoroughly sand the the area before making the installation, which will also expose and air bubbles in the fiberglass. I used an orbital sander with very course sandpaper.
In my old boat I worked through an access hole in a storage area and in my current boat I made an acces hole in the floor under a seat base, which makes the seat base a removable access hatch.
I used Plumber's Putty to make a dam around the area to keep the epoxy in place and also weighted or braced the transducer in place over night until the epoxy set.
I don't think the graph manufacturers recommend “Shoot-Through” transducers on aluminum hulls but I've also heard they work fine. If you want to see how well it will work in your boat you can put enough water in the hull so there is no air between the transducer and the hull, weight or brace the transducer in place and operate your graph (on the water of course) and see if you're getting the same definition you get with the transducer directly in the water. You may need to turn your sensitivity up a bit to compensate for the sound waves going through the hull.
I have my Humminbird Matrix shooting through the hull near the front of my boat and a Lowrance LCX17m (about 4 times more expensive than the Matrix) on the console and I get basically the same definition on both units.
I've had to remove a couple and was able to pry them off with a crow bar.Originally Posted by skleppe
I wouldn't use Gorilla Glue - it's foamy when set - Foam = Air Bubbles. It's great for a lot of other things though.Originally Posted by Lipripper
Lipripper
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i got a older fiberglass boat and im bad to use what i got on hand took exterior liquid nail stuck peice of wood to hull then the skimmer transducer to the wood been three years so far so good dont advise it though
[never snap at the hand that feeds ya
Bob uses alot of our video for his show. If you ever seen any episodes with squirrel dogs or youth turkey hunting, that was us.Originally Posted by Slipcork