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Thread: Directions for T 250 H mounting?

  1. #1
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    Default Directions for T 250 H mounting?


    When mounting the base for the T-250-H driftmaster, do you have to drill a hole in the center for the T bar rod to go in? I just ordered a set of these and I am trying to see how to mount them before I even get them. But I see that the rod mounts in the middle of the base, but it looks like the rod goes through the middle of the base to what I assume is a locking nut or something on the base.

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    There is a nut welded onto one side of the base which will hold the threaded bar to the base. This welded nut does go "down" or against the floor, so you will need to drill a hole or recess large enough for this welded nut to drop into the floor so the entire square base will be flush with the floor. One more hole in the floor won't hurt anymore than the other four to mount the base. I've got one on my boat, and like it alot.

    You could try mounting the base plate with the welded nut facing up, but you will probably still have to drill a recess hole for the threaded bar to go down into/thru the floor to make a secure mounting.
    GO BIG ORANGE !

    I meant to behave, but there were just way too many other options available at the time.

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    Yeah bob, nut goes down, drill ya a hole buddy!
    I clever quip fishing ironic statement crappie!

  4. #4
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    Everyone is giving you correct information on this unit. I guide for crappie and have two boats--a pontoon and a bass boat. I have two of these on the front of the bass boat but I did not drill any holes for the units. I mounted them on some bases that attach to rope cleats but this will not work in all applications. If you are going to mount them to the floor then you must drill 4 holes and probably 5 for best results.
    Check us out at Extreme Fishing Concepts for all your Driftmaster needs.

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    I'm mounting a few of the square flush bases for t250s. I'm hoping the screws that come with the unit will hold in my alum casting deck. Can't get under deck to use bolts. Maybe a good pilot hole and some loctite on the threads?? I bought a 1 1/8' hole saw to help with the bigo nuts welded to the Pro size flush bases I bought for the lantern holders. Wish me luck. Wish me any advice too>

    G2 1860 CC

    Tex

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    Get in the boat, deploy trolling motor, measure 100 times, get two people in boat, deploy trolling motor, use foot control, measure 100 more times, drill once.
    I clever quip fishing ironic statement crappie!

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    I flipped my base's over to keep from drilling a 5TH hole,they work fine for me and I thru bolted the base's to the floor.If you can't get under there to thru bolt I would use some stainless toggle bolt's.

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    I got them in the mail today and they came with some SS screws but I am unsure about them mounting to the deck. I have a crestliner storm 16 and the decks are aluminum. I might have to use bolts and washers to mount them instead of the screws, what do you all think?

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    If you have access to the underside of where you intend to mount it, then by all means use bolts or screws with lock nuts and washers for a good solid mount. Well worth the effort to do it right the 1st time. The rod holder can put some stress on the floor mount connection when longlining and get hung up when you forget to set the drag loose enough. If you do have access to the underside, consider putting some re-enforcement material (small piece of plastic cutting board works great, won't rot or rust). I've even used metal electrical outlet covers in some applications for backing material to provide some extra support at times.
    GO BIG ORANGE !

    I meant to behave, but there were just way too many other options available at the time.

  10. #10
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    Excellent idea with the cutting board, that is what I will do. Thank you.

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